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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Go Flysurfer!! Where do you kite? Or do you snow kite? I think you'll have more room than you can imagine under the bed. I store 15 kites, 2 TTs, 2 surfboards, 2 foilboards, 4 foil setups, 8 wetsuits, harnesses, helmets, bars, etc. And stuff for living in the van full time.
Yes! :) I mostly do snow kiting (on the mountain plateau "Hardangervidda" close to where I live in Norway), but I did pick up kiting on water two years back, give or take. I'm not really a confident rider yet on water, but getting there. Love the Flysurfer though, amazingly good going upwind. Which is part of the reason I wanted to build my own van too, have room for all the equipment I will bring, permanently, and not base everything on moving stuff around when reconfiguring the living space. As you say, I might have room for more than I think. Looking at the space I though I might end up short of space, but maybe I'll manage to cram everything in. I will bring 4-5 kites, surfboard, a few wetsuits, 5 paragliders, 2-3 paragliding harnesses and a foldable kayak. It will be a game of Lego for sure :) I'd love to see a picture if you have one with everything stuffed in place :)

Make sure you don’t permantly block access to those rear vented columns. There are important wires in there.
I might have already blocked those off.. ahem ;) You mean the channels going along the doors from top to bottom in the rear? I have stuffed them with rockwool, which is why I want to seal them off (blocking those airborne particles from the insulation into the living space). I've spray-glued a reflectix type of material on top all the way, and planned on a finish with fabric, but if I really needed to I guess I could cut it open to access the channel. What is the probability I would need to access those? Like, do I have to open them to change a lightbulb, or similar maintenance work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 · (Edited)
So, I've taken one step forward and two back. I'm probably doing all the mistakes possible. I've started to build the interior, and I've got as far as:
  • Built two cavity walls, partly cladded with panels, but I'll leave one side open to pull cables and such.
  • Built the seating section.
  • Built one cabinet (with a cardboard fridge as template).
  • Cut a hole in the van for shore power connector.
  • Got most of the ceiling in place (furthest section is treated with water resistent paint for bathroom and kitchen).

And so my setbacks for today:
  • Figured the cabinet was 1,5 inches too far to the left, so had to move the entire thing.
  • Measured the length of a clothes hanger in the bottom of the cabinet (to make the cabinet "full size" and fit normal hangers). I unfortunately did not think of the panels bending inwards in the top of the cabinet.. so the hanger did not fit where its suppose to be :p
  • The seating section was 1,5 inches too high, so had to lower the entire thing.
  • Too much insulation in the sliding door, so the opening mechanism was very slow. Had to open up and redo insulation in the door.

So it's taken soon two days to correct all my mistakes :)

The next thing that puzzles me is how I can route the cables (from DC-DC charger in the back) to the main battery in the front. Two 35mm2 bad boys just wont fint anywhere (in addition to a fuse box).

A few pictures to sum up my progress so far..

Automotive parking light Tire Wheel Grille Automotive lighting

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I might have already blocked those off.. ahem ;) You mean the channels going along the doors from top to bottom in the rear? I have stuffed them with rockwool, which is why I want to seal them off (blocking those airborne particles from the insulation into the living space). I've spray-glued a reflectix type of material on top all the way, and planned on a finish with fabric, but if I really needed to I guess I could cut it open to access the channel. What is the probability I would need to access those? Like, do I have to open them to change a lightbulb, or similar maintenance work?
Yes, to change light bulbs, you first have to detach the taillight assembly from the inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Yes, to change light bulbs, you first have to detach the taillight assembly from the inside.
I gave it a go and redid the panel with some fabric. I'm not super happy with the result, so might redo it in the end to make the finish perfect. The holes for the screws were hard to get right.. (I attached a photo)

I also got some of the electric started up, tested the Maxxfan and it worked :) Which is good, since I have no way to get to the wires, they are behind walls/ceiling now :) Satisfying that it worked on first attempt though.

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
This weekend I managed to finish the shower (just the wet room, not drainage - I'll leave that for last) and made good progress on the Kitchen corner. Mounted a USB socket and 230V socket there too.. I'm also done with most of the framework for everything now, so its beginning to look like something..

After a little research and facebook group assistance, I've landed the connections for Victron Multiplus inverter/charter, which puzzled me for some time. Specifically cable dimensions.

Next up will be to get stuff wired up.. lagging behind on the electric part.

Property Wood Interior design Shelving Flooring

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Some minor work done this weekend. Made a kitchen top, added a sink from Ikea, cladded a wall, and tested the very first 12v led-strips (oh and it actually worked). I also got the wrong both dimmer and USB socket (would not mount or fit properly in my relatively thick wall panels, maybe they are designed for another thinner panel for mounting) so had to 3d-print a custom faceplate for both. Turned out well I think.

Next up I'm trying to figure out how to design the gas system. I'm trying to get in touch with a company that could install a gas-tank under the van. Don't want to gamble with an improperly installed gas system. If that fails, I'll build a tank inside a sealed container in the kitchen cabinet.

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Your last wiring photo shows 2 Victron Lynx Distributors. Is there a special reason for the second one?
I thought I ran out of connections to the busbar, but it might come down to poor design choises. I counted 6 needed connections, mind you not everything is connected just yet:

  • DCDC charger.
  • DCDC charger return path (to avoid using the chassis - as recommended in the manual)
  • DC distribution block.
  • Victron Multiplus
  • Solar regulator (main panels)
  • Solar regulator (secondary panels - different panels, so a separate charger - trying to get as many panels as possible).

So I'm two connections short for a single distributor. I'm sure I could have designed it a lot better and one would be enough, but now its there, and its more work to remove it :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 · (Edited)
I've cut a new hole in the roof today, and installed the second Maxxfan (in the back, bed area). It went surprisingly well, considering I felt confident enough to do a "measure-once-cut-once" approach :) I was thinking a using masking tape, I did not use masking tape, I should have used masking tape. I'm not very impressed with the finish, as it could have looked a lot better, and my ocd is acting up. Oh well. Maybe I went overkill with the sikaflex too, but have to be sure its waterproof. Used butyl-tape and sikaflex to seal the fan.

For anyone else installing a Maxxfan on the Ducato, I have to say the roof vent adapter is really worth the extra money! Makes the installation sooo much easier.

Also installed the fridge. Have to say, for the price of the Dometic fridge, I was expecting a little more premium feeling, a little disappointed, but it looks good enough at least. I like the dual hinged opening mechanism.

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Discussion Starter · #73 · (Edited)
Not sure if this is clever or not, but I left a quarter-inch gap between the cutout of the roof fan and the insulation / support material. That way, if there is a leak, it will hopefully just en up in the flange and not flow into the insulation and cause a lot of problems. I'll then be able to inspect it during heavy rain too (maybe) to hopefully catch a problem before it gets too big. Looking at the close-up photo I can also see how horrible my paint job was sealing the cutout :)

Wood Electrical wiring Font Gas Electronic device


I also removed the passenger seats to be able to access the fuel tank easier and route the cables from DCDC-charger to the battery. I've been thinking a lot on how to actually route the cables, as its quite a tight fit going along the drivers side. So I believe I found it easier to route the cables on the drivers seat right side and through the floor. Makes it easy to mount both the fuse holder and get both positive and negative cable all the way to the battery. Cables are already pulled through the wall on the drivers side lower side.

I've also added a switch to the D+ signal in my design. If it works like I think it does, the idea was to be able to cut off the dcdc-charger if I need to.

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Discussion Starter · #74 · (Edited)
So I have a question regarding a heater unit if anyone have thoughts to share. I'm looking to buy either a Truma Combi 6E or D6E for water/air heating (one is propane, and the other model is diesel - otherwise they are the same unit in every aspect). It looks like Truma finally are able to deliver some of these units after production challenges.

My question is regarding noise. I would prefer the Diesel version as it would tap directly into the vans fuel tank, also it'd be less units on propane inside the living space (peace of mind).

Does anyone know whether or not the Diesel version would be more / less noisy than the propane counterpart? Both internal- and externally, and also if there would be an annoying fuel pump "ticking" sound from it?
 
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