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cjo, your posts are being marked as "spam" by the forum software and won’t be posted until a moderator reviews them. I know you two are not spammers but keep this in mind if your posts don’t show up immediately as (believe it or not) I don’t live on the forum 24/7!
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Thanks keeponvaning. We will keep up the "spam" :).

Details
Everything takes time and all the little pieces add up. Writing about them is very therapeutic for me.

Gray water vent installed behind the backing board. I used a piece of polyethylene tubing to with a barb on one end a 90 barb on the other to span the space of the "triangles" I used an existing water weep hole by removing the rubber plug and sticking the barb on the bottom of the tube. Then I siliconed the barb in place. Don't worry I didn't glue them all shut :ROFLMAO: (PM Forum gets crazy when you mention those holes). I then hooked the braided hose onto the 90 and that will run to the gray water. I also cut a hole in the backer board while it was out to install a bay of 4 12v plugs.
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Back in the garage because it's freaking snowing. 90 Degrees yesterday, 30 Today.
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I ran the propane hose for the oven/stove and mounted this cool clamp I found to hold the bottle in the drawer. We tossed around the idea of where to install the canister for a while and landed on the drawer. Since we are using 1 pound tanks we don't need to vent them and we will need access to change them often-ish. You can see a piece of foam on the back of the clamp, I secured that with some glue to keep the bottle secure and not have it rattling around at all. I quick shout out to AAA Propane Center in Wheat Ridge. I brought the oven over and told the guy I wanted to hook it up to a 1LB bottle. He cranked out a quick hose for me and walked me through the process. Super legit. That would have taken days for me to figure out at Home Depot.
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That's some really nice sewing. Sewing in magnets is not for the faint of heart.

My present method for sewing magnets into binding is to sew past where I want one to be, lift the foot but not the needle, then slide the magnet approximately to its place. After the seam is finished, I move each magnet to its final position, then stitch each side of it to keep it there.

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Discussion Starter #64
Finally assembled the galley today and installed it in the van. it is completely removable if we need to take it out.

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Also started on the Espar B4L parking heater install. Got pretty far tonight. Got the holes drilled, intake and exhaust hooked up, heater mounted, and installed fuel pump under the van. I wired up the fuel pump and got the gas line running from the van tank to the heater.

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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
Mostly finished with the Espar B4L install today. Total time was probably 4.5 hours to install and another hour of looking at the pieces trying to make sense of it. We will be adding an intake silencer as its a little loud on the intake side. We already have a muffler on the exhaust side. The heater ran once and got a fuel error since the fuel didn't make it all the way down the line. The second time it took about 5 minutes but then exhaust started flowing and heat started cranking. Very happy to have this installed. This was one of the big todos that I had remaining. It was way easier than I thought it would be.

Under the van where the intake, exhaust, and fuel line go through. The power wire for the fuel pump comes out of one of the black plugs.
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Fuel Pump with input/output lines and power.
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The heater installed. I had this additional fuse box that I wanted to install inside the living area in the event that we needed more wire runs. I already had the wiring here and with the counter installed and heater installed I could place it. This let me avoid using Espar's fuse block, instead I used this one.

edit: We are building a bench over this area between the bed wall and the galley. It will cover the heater and we will vent the heater out of the box
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Will you be leaving the rest of the heater's housing off like in the last pic? I think it might be useful to have it on since it funnels the incoming air over the hot cooling fins of the combustion chamber. Could be useful for extracting all of the heat as well as keeping the combustion chamber temps in line with what the engineers had intended.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Will you be leaving the rest of the heater's housing off like in the last pic? I think it might be useful to have it on since it funnels the incoming air over the hot cooling fins of the combustion chamber. Could be useful for extracting all of the heat as well as keeping the combustion chamber temps in line with what the engineers had intended.
Good observation! The heater will be fully assembled and will be enclosed in a bench seat/storage. The vent for the output of the heater will be attached at that point and come out the front of the bench. The intake on the right side of that photo will route through to the front as well but through a small fake drawer next to the galley.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Got started on the uppers.

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The doors have since been removed and all the holes are being filled for painting the boxes. We aren't sure if we are going to paint the doors or polly them.

More to come! Thanks for stopping by!
 

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I vote for poly - such beautiful wood that it would be a shame to cover it! Plus, it'll hold up better to dirt in terms of looks.
 

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I made similar window coverings but used a combo of blackout material, Insul-Bright for the middle insulation, and Temptrol to reflect back the sunshine.
@Little Mother I was re-reading your post about your window coverings! I'm starting to think about coverings for the windshield, driver's, and passenger's window and considering how I want to approach them. I was wondering how you like the Insul-Bright and Temptrol combo? How was the sewing? And how do you feel about those two materials in general and their ability to insulate/reflect the sun? I read about the Temptrol and it definitely seems like it would be a great choice for the cab windows. Would love to hear your thoughts!
 

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@Little Mother I was re-reading your post about your window coverings! I'm starting to think about coverings for the windshield, driver's, and passenger's window and considering how I want to approach them. I was wondering how you like the Insul-Bright and Temptrol combo? How was the sewing? And how do you feel about those two materials in general and their ability to insulate/reflect the sun? I read about the Temptrol and it definitely seems like it would be a great choice for the cab windows. Would love to hear your thoughts!
So, I took the easy, but more expensive, way out. Got the WeatherTech shades for the windshield and front windows, and installed a tension curtain rod we had lying around the house (usually used to hang Christmas stockings on the mantel). and bought these curtains - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071H89TM2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - (just needed hemming) to hang behind the seats. We don't intend to get swivel seats, so this will provide an extra layer of insulation space between the windows and the curtain. Plus, we wanted to keep bulk down to a minimum since we have the 136" LR.

As for your question about the Temptrol and the Insul-Bright, the sewing wasn't difficult because I also had a layer of blackout material (Eroica Blackout Drapery Fabric Black/White/Beige color 3 pass | Etsy) with the Insul-Bright in the middle of the "sandwich." I sewed them inside out and turned them right-side-out through the opening I had left. In all honesty, haven't had the opportunity to test their insulation/reflective ability yet (will do so on our trip at the beginning of October) but I think it should work. Sorry I can't provide any advice on that. We do have some Havelock wool left over from insulating, and have considered adding a layer of that . . . we'll see.

Hope that helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Thanks @Little Mother!

A biggggg weekend for Jellybean.

Thursday we installed the flip up trays on the galley for the extended counter and the workspace from the drivers seat.
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Friday we dropped the van off at Innovate Welding Solutions in Wheat Ridge to have Ronald install an arm rest on our passenger chair. I tried to make something to attach the eBay arm rest I bought but it was too convoluted for me. With so much going on I decided I'd rather outsource it to the pros to weld something on. He did a way better job than I would have. The thing looks factory installed.
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I also asked Ronald to design something to hold down our wheel well water tank made by @Curious Campervans. The criteria for the tank hold down was removable, minimal, stop the tank from bowing, and keep this thing in place in the event of an accident. The design turned out great and I am super happy with it. He came up with the below. A simple hinge system for the tank.
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Finally cut all those zip ties holding the bed platform down and added some corner brackets from 80/20. Added a thermal break between the platform and the 80/20 frame.

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Once the bed was tied down we worked on the slide out table/drawer. This will function both as drawer to hold small things and table when the benches are installed.
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Last but not least we got the uppers above the bed installed and wrapped up. Lots of painting for us yesterday and lots of poly for @cjo today.
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Discussion Starter #73
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A test fit of everything so far. The bed wall needs to be cut in a few places. One cut for the slide out table/drawer and a big door below that to give us garage access from inside.
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Waiting on our window from CRL to finish that last wall behind the galley, everything back ordered at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
We are very excited!!! We are almost done! Maybe 80-90% of the way there!
The big remaining items are:
  • Install an awning window of above the sink/kitchen when we receive it.
  • Frame the awning window and wall behind kitchen.
  • Tongue and groove and backsplash behind the kitchen.
  • A box that encloses the fridge in a bench.
  • Trim trim trim trim. Lots of tricky bits. We put the factory plastic back on for now but we don't want it to look that way in the end.
  • Make the front window covers for the windshield, drivers side, and passenger side.
We are headed to Utah for a bit. Here is the van ready to go on this trip.
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The heater inside the bench. We will make a cover for it so this space can be used as storage.
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Discussion Starter #77
Nice and clean with color. I like it.
Thanks Misnomer!

We spent our first night out in it and cooked our first meal in the kitchen. We were very glad to have the added space of the flip ups. It was nice to move things around while cooking. The stove worked great and it vents well with the fan near the kitchen. No weird smells the next day or anything.

Small things to resolve:
  • The oven door is a bit squeaky on washboard roads, the solution was to open it. More investigation will be done this week.
  • The water tastes like hose. Not sure if its the hose I filled up with or the hose from the shurflo silencer kit. I will look into this and let you all know.
 

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  • The water tastes like hose. Not sure if its the hose I filled up with or the hose from the shurflo silencer kit. I will look into this and let you all know.
The first time I filled ours up, I used a regular garden hose and that tasted pretty terrible. It is 'okay' tasting with an RV water fill hose with a filter on the end. Hadn't thought about the silencer kit being the culprit. I'm hoping it gets better with time and usage, since there is a lot of plastic in the lines, fittings, and tank.
 

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Got the solar installed, followed FarOutRide with the VHB Tape. Found some folks on this forum running the wires through the black camera box. Awesome idea. Glad to not drill through the roof again. Sealed those cable glands with the leak stopper stuff from the first post. Again a nice bulletproof seal.

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Panels are alive and CRANKING.
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How the solar looks from the ground. Note the Tacoma parked right next to the van. This was my ladder to get on top. View attachment 65187

Cutting some side panels from the floor scraps. We used rivnuts in the factory holes. I would not recommend this. I would suggest drilling holes where you want them and avoiding the factory holes.
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We bought some cheap 2x2 to mock out the bed so we could order some 80/20 precut.

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Passenger side panel cut by the wife. Teaching her to use a jigsaw for the first time.
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Did some ceiling furring. Mistake here again, forgot to fill the beams above with insulation. Pulled them down last week and stuffed them. 1/4" sill sealer under the boards to keep us squeak free.
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Electrical going in:

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Built a box to go over the wheel well. Another mistake, it was about 1" too small. Ended up cutting a small notch on the inside edge. It's not about not making mistakes, but covering them up well.
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More electrical
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Another post coming
When you said that you advise not using the factory holes and drilling your own into the van; Do you mean drill your own holes to install rivnuts, or are you fastening directly to the van? Awesome build by the way, we appreciate all the guidance you've provided us with ours.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
When you said that you advise not using the factory holes and drilling your own into the van; Do you mean drill your own holes to install rivnuts, or are you fastening directly to the van? Awesome build by the way, we appreciate all the guidance you've provided us with ours.
Yeah instead of trying to line up everything to the pre existing holes, mark roughly where they are and drill between them. The process I used for the later mounting was:
1. Cut the plywood to size.
2. Clamp the plywood to the hip rails or whatever metal you are mounting to
3. Mark the metal where the factory holes are roughly so you can avoid them
4. Drill through the plywood with a small bit (1/8" would be fine) where you want to use the mounting screw with the rivnuts.
5. Remove clamps, pull plywood down, use a step bit to make the holes the right size for the rivnuts. If you don't have a step bit, get one.
6. Paint the raw metal holes with rustoleum.
7. Install rivnuts in your nice new painted holes.
8. Drill out the holes in the plywood to the correct screw size.
9. Cover the metal that will touch the wood in a sil sealer roll foam or something similar to prevent squeaking.
10. Mount the plywood with all the perfectly aligned holes.
 
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