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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2017 2500 159 Promaster and my passenger side sliding door is not working. I am out of warranty and figure the dealership is going to overcharge me to fix the problem. One day the sliding door simply stopped opening without any sign of degration or issue that I can remember. I believe I can hear the locking mechanism activate when I hit the unlock button; however the door doesn't open from either the inside or outside handle. I started looking to see if I could manually open the door through any of the pull cables attached to the handle, but it didn't immediately work so I decided I should seek higher wisdom.

I checked and the door lock fuse is good and the other door locks work properly.

Any thoughts on how to tackle this problem or narrow down the problem?
 

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My Slider will get glued shut by maple tree or fig blossum sap - pull handle twice to clear lock lockout safety and tug and nothing happens except the gaskets yield a couple of millimeters... In my case its a continued gentle push from inside, then quit pushing when the sound effects of gaskets ripping free stop. Yeah, water wash gaskets and apply thin silicone coating cures it until next time...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks all for the initial help. My problem persists and as keeponvaning stated:

Keep in mind even if you can hear the electrical function of the lock working that doesn’t mean the mechanical function is working. The cables alone are enough to drive you nuts !

My issue seems to be the rear latch of the sliding door is no longer mechanically working. I've dissembled the handles and tried to manually pull both the front latch and rear latch cables. I've heated up the interior of the van but that hasn't altered the issue. Similarly, I've been dealing with this issue for months in both warm and cold weather so I think I've eliminated temperature as a factor. I've tried to push and pull on the door but there doesn't seem to be any movement to wiggle it loose from a binding condition. I can hear "something" inside the rear latch mechanism when I pull the handles or hit unlock, but it doesn't seem to release, so I'm guessing that something misaligned in this mechanism when the door was last closed and will not open.. It appears that the door must be opened to remove this mechanism, so I'm looking for suggestions. My choices seem to be dealer or cut a big hole in the slide door to access the rear mechanism and try to pop the door open.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I appreciate the pictures Zoomyn. Thanks! What are the illustrations showing in post #8. Is that an upper latch in the rear of the door? I'll check tomorrow in the daylight, I didn't recall an upper latch.

To the question by proeddie, based on the illustrations above in post #9, because I can't open the door, I don't have access to the side of the sliding door where the mechanism attaches (see photo). So I'm trying to figure out how to troubleshoot this without having access to the panel to probe the mechanism.
59766
 

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What you see is what I have... it's -8°F and I'm in for the night thanks...

An example of latch cable dysfunction that actually protects the mechanism: Rear door, if it gets closed on something and manages to fully latch when the outside handle gets yanked there is a break-free plastic cable holder that allows it to flop out/away instead of damaging something by being bound so tight by the obstruction, in this case its a reach-in and re-clip cable sheath in its holder from an access panel in the door liner... maybe that is the case for you, an inspection mirror and flashlight to review cable routing/termination?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
When I manually pull on cable 3 in the image below, it doesn't appear to have full range of motion to unlatch the mechanism. I uploaded a video (
) of the cable. This cable 3 goes to the interior handle. I'm assuming this cable is the most direct to the latch.

Without this range of motion, i'm assuming this latch can't release and thus open the door.
Does this make sense?
 

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A quick check - on the exterior periphery of the slider - do you have gaps of... (in millimeters)

Sliding Door to Roof Side Panel 5.0 +/- 1.5
Sliding Door to B-pillar 5.5 +/- 1.5
Siding Door to Sill Panel 6.0 +/- 1.5
Sliding Door to Body Side Panel 5.0 +/- 1.5

All this is being flush plus up to +1.5 in relation to exterior body; body side panel spec is parallel within 1mm.

These latches are made to hold untill there is slack (relative) in the mood, err, position of door just hanging out, designed for zero pop-open under tension for crash worthiness. Maybe a little heave and push by a helper, gently massage the latches bite tension, while doinking with ALL the cables?

This seems like one of those deals that when it pops open that missing 13mm socket / 'C' cell battery or the plastic stegosaurus dash ornament mystery will be solved...☯☯☯☯
 

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I believe it is one of 2 things. 1) the cable is not pulling the catch far enough to release the rotating closing latch or 2) the catch is being pulled far enough but the rotating latch is not turning. I am pretty sure I had problem 2 since after lubing the rotating latch no more problems. I had to press hard at the back middle latch while pulling handle to get it open when stuck.

One way to help figure if the cable is pulling far enough is to compare it to the passenger door which has the same handle, rotating latch and door jam catch. Just search speakers to find ways to get the interior panel off.

I am pretty sure all the doors are all sprung open by the compression of the weather seal and is not assisted by the handle pull for the first half inch.

Finally is the spacing of the sliding door appear even all around and is the door flush with the panels. On mine the top rear is a little further out than the panel but flush and has an even crack all around.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks again for the posts. Upon closer inspection, the sliding door was not flush. I tried pushing (kicking even) on the back of the door while pulling the handle... no luck. It seems pretty stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So the door is jammed solid. I'm not exactly sure where to push to help try to dislodge the jam. Zoomyn mentioned pushing on the rear, but where exactly has helped people? I've tried to push around, but I can't get the door to budge in any direction to try and dislodge. Sorry, but the issue persists.
 
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