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All is well with the install. We let it get up to temperature.... About 210F. Coolant circulated and heated up the domestic water. No leaks.

After it cooled the expansion tank didn't show an increase of fluid.

The Isotemp said to use Loctite 592 on all connections. First time using this stuff but it seems to work great. And it smells delightful :p
 

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Noob question.... Does the isotemp spa work with the van just idling? Or do you have to drive around for it to heat up enough? Definitely interested in one.
 

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All is well with the install.


Noob question.... Does the isotemp spa work with the van just idling? Or do you have to drive around for it to heat up enough? Definitely interested in one.
Sure. It's tied into the same system as your in-dash heater, which still heats the van at idle, thank goodness.
 

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All is well with the install.


Noob question.... Does the isotemp spa work with the van just idling? Or do you have to drive around for it to heat up enough? Definitely interested in one.
Sure. It's tied into the same system as your in-dash heater, which still heats the van at idle, thank goodness.
On the road for the first time with it.... A few drips at the hoses I added in the engine bay. Needed to snug up the clamps. But don't want to overtighten.

Getting more water than I expected from the over pressure valve.

I'm guessing that is because of the high coolant temps? I see around 202 to 208 cruising.

I insulated the under van lines ... I might pull that off.
 

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On the road for the first time with it.... A few drips at the hoses I added in the engine bay. Needed to snug up the clamps. But don't want to overtighten.

Getting more water than I expected from the over pressure valve.

I'm guessing that is because of the high coolant temps? I see around 202 to 208 cruising.

I insulated the under van lines ... I might pull that off.
I have a small hose connected to the pressure relief valve that goes straight down and through the van floor so any drips go outside.

It also makes draining the Isotemp easy, just turn the knob on the pressure relief valve and open a faucet to let air in.

I don't think removing the hose insulation will make any difference. Hot water expands.
 

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After another 12 hour driving day only a few drops came out... Coolant hit 220F.

My isotemp is about 19 inches above the bottom of my fresh tank. My thought is I can isolate the Isotemp and then drain it's contents into my fresh tank in a pinch. If I really need those 4 gallons.
 

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On the road for the first time with it.... A few drips at the hoses I added in the engine bay. Needed to snug up the clamps. But don't want to overtighten. Getting more water than I expected from the over pressure valve. I'm guessing that is because of the high coolant temps? I see around 202 to 208 cruising. I insulated the under van lines ... I might pull that off.
I chased a few drips at first, too. I used silicone hose inside the van, which seems to seal around barbed connections with a bit more surety than the rubber hose I used elsewhere. A bit more tightening stopped those drips.
But you should expect routine drips from the pressure relief valve, which also doubles as the tank drain. Attach a hose or pipe to it and daylight it through the floor. And yes, it's due to high coolant temp, which can also trip the over-temp breaker on the 110VAC thermostat. So you may need to reset that before the 110VAC element will work. See the manual for its location. I drilled a chopstick-size hole over the reset button, so I don't have to remove the cover. We use our Kill-a-Watt meter to test whether the 110VAC element is working (drawing power) or not.
 

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For those with Isotemps, the temp range on your mixer value can be easily adjusted if the temp you want doesn't fall within the range set at the factory. The manual says the factory range is supposed to be 100-150F. Ours was much higher, to the point comfort and safety were out of bounds.

All the SPA models, and many other Isotemp models, all use the same mixer valve.
https://www.lkarmatur.com/en/products/valves-for-water-heating/lk-550-aquamix-_55554451.aspx
Follow the instructions for increasing/reducing max temp. Hold a thermometer in a faucet stream while making slow adjustments. Final knob position relative to the stop defines the range.
 

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Any thoughts on pros and cons of the various isotemp water heater sizes? It will be my wife and I traveling (she insisted on hot water and honestly... it wasn't that much of an arm twist for me to agree!) Other than the fact that bigger tank takes up more room, I am wondering if I should just get the large 11 gallon tank as it will still be a fresh water storage tank in conjunction with main water storage. Or does the 4 gallon produce more than enough hot water for 2 people considering that you are mixing the hot water with cold. :unsure:

(Weird.... I am over-analyzing again.... :rolleyes: )
 

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11 gallons of water (+ you still need the cold) weights 88 lbs and mixed with ambient water to temper the nearly 200 degree water inside would be way more than any camping family of 6 should need. But then we get allong with heating some on our butane stove or throw the sun shower on the roof. KIS or at least KI small.
 

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Any thoughts on pros and cons of the various isotemp water heater sizes? It will be my wife and I traveling (she insisted on hot water and honestly... it wasn't that much of an arm twist for me to agree!) Other than the fact that bigger tank takes up more room, I am wondering if I should just get the large 11 gallon tank as it will still be a fresh water storage tank in conjunction with main water storage. Or does the 4 gallon produce more than enough hot water for 2 people considering that you are mixing the hot water with cold. :unsure:

(Weird.... I am over-analyzing again.... :rolleyes: )
we (2 people) had the 6 gal in a previous camper connected to the engine cooling system and the 'very' hot water would last 2 - 3 days when parked for showers and dish washing.

in our promaster we have the 4 gal and have hot water for 1 - 2 days.

after that idling for 15-20 minutes and the water is hot enough for a shower.

if we drive even a short distance every other day or so we never run out of hot water.

as for getting drinking water out of the 11 gal, unless you do something special, the hot water only comes out when you force cold water in.
 

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The four gallon is working well for us. Couldn't imagine bigger it takes up a lot of room. The Slim version is square but much more expensive.

Keep in mind you can't count the heater's contents as fresh water. You can't access it.

I've set up my isotemp with winterization valves and it is higher than my fresh tank. So, in a pinch I can isolate the Isotemp and drain it's contents into my fresh tank.
 

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All good stuff!! Seems the consensus for our application is the 4 gallon. Best value for water/space/price

Thanks Team Promaster!

(Honestly, the vast amount of experience and knowledge on this forum is amazing!)
 

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Can we just utilize the engine expansion tank, or is it critical to have another? Mixed reviews...

Also, for the time being.... and maybe permanently, do I reeeeeally need to even utilize the electric heating element? Couldn't I just leave it unplugged and operate fully off of engine heat? Probably a dumb question...
 

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we camp mostly in national forest and national park campgrounds where there is no electricity and in 5 years have only used the 110 vac heating element once or twice.

we usually drive most days even if just for sight seeing. even a short drive heats the water.

If we do park for several days 15 or 20 minutes idling provides plenty of hot water for showers and dish washing.

I had an Isotemp in a previous camper and wasnt aware about the thermostat problem. I thought the heating element was broken and for 10 years only used the engine to heat water.
 

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Can we just utilize the engine expansion tank, or is it critical to have another? Mixed reviews...

Also, for the time being.... and maybe permanently, do I reeeeeally need to even utilize the electric heating element? Couldn't I just leave it unplugged and operate fully off of engine heat? Probably a dumb question...
No need for a secondary expansion tank in my setup. The isotemp is about 12 inches higher than the factory tank.

I've found the electric element nice to have. Although it won't heat the water as.hot as the coolant. And the tank has a thermal protection that trips because of the high temp of the promaster coolant. So you have to reset it to use the electric.

The hot water turns warm after maybe 18 hours but it really depends on the temp of the fresh water being pulled in as you use it.
 

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We don't have a separate expansion tank on ours either and it works fine. The 110v element is just there for back-up in case you are parked for days somewhere with shore power. But like tgregg, we've found idling the engine for 15-20 minutes also works if you don't have shore power. If your van is wired for shore power anyway, like ours, it makes sense to put a 110v outlet within reach of the Isotemp to maintain that option. We use our Kill-a-watt monitor to test whether the Isotemp is drawing 110v power; if it isn't, that means it's over-temp breaker is tripped.
 

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Gotcha! Thanks for the input everyone! Tgregg, I had to laugh out loud when I read how you thought the element was broken vs the thermo being tripped! That it definitely something that I would have done!
 
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