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Discussion Starter #1
I want to add an AGM house battery and was hoping the stock starter battery was AGM. I can't seem to find that answer anywhere. When I look up replacement batteries, all I find is AGM. I know AGM and flooded cell use different charge profiles so I didn't want to mix them.....


Was hoping I could just parallel an AGM house battery to the start battery with a smart isolator
thanks!
 

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I believe this has been addressed in threads. The short answer is your van should have an AGM battery, mine does. You can do just what you are thinking. Several here have.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks! I've read a bunch of threads but didn't pick up explicitly that the start battery was AGM
good news!
now I'll go reread those threads and get some advice on a smart isolator!
 

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thanks! I've read a bunch of threads but didn't pick up explicitly that the start battery was AGM
good news!
now I'll go reread those threads and get some advice on a smart isolator!


Buy the ACR by blue sea and be done. It works amazingly well.
 

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2014 136” HR
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My 2014 gas appears to be wet cell. Charging maxes at about 14.3V, but my Trojan AGM's need 14.7-8V for a full charge. One factor in the decision to add solar.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My 2014 gas appears to be wet cell. Charging maxes at about 14.3V, but my Trojan AGM's need 14.7-8V for a full charge. One factor in the decision to add solar.
that was my concern, the different charge profiles
I'm gonna go dig my battery out and see if I can tell
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just took a look at my 2014 PM battery. part # 68192809AA, a discontinued part so couldn't find much on it.
I believe it is maintenance free but it has Phillips head screws ports on each cell and it is vented out the side and down out of the battery compartment, so, my guess is maintenance free flooded. I need to take a look with a meter to see what kind of voltage charge is applied.
 

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2014-159 HR in CT
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Looks like lots of overkill to me.... 500 amps? or 300 AMPS depending on which line of the description you read...

Twice the price of a Battery Doctor! My Battery Doctor has worked fine for the past year and a half charging 2 100Ah AGM batteries with the stock alternator in my 2014 PM

Just an FYI,
Ed
 

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Umm, because it's worked fine for over two years on my Promaster.
 

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2014-159 HR in CT
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that one says "supports high output alternators up to 120 Amps"
how did you conclude it was ok for 180/220 amp PM?


looks good if it works
As an FYI, my setup has an 80 amp breaker between the van battery, and the Battery Doctor feeding the aux batteries. It has never tripped in a year and a half. Unless the aux batteries are dead flat, I just don't see that the charging current will ever be that high.

ed
 

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2015 Promaster 3500 159 Ext gas silver
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I just took a look at my 2014 PM battery. part # 68192809AA, a discontinued part so couldn't find much on it.
I believe it is maintenance free but it has Phillips head screws ports on each cell and it is vented out the side and down out of the battery compartment, so, my guess is maintenance free flooded. I need to take a look with a meter to see what kind of voltage charge is applied.
My battery is similar with flush caps and vent tube. I think that where caps are present it would be foolish not to occasionally check the level of the electrolyte - once a year or so sounds about right and vary the interval based on how much distilled water you add. The highest voltage I see from my alternator is around 14.3 volts (Ultragauge on the OBD II port).
 
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