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2016 Promaster 2500 HR 159WB
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Discussion Starter #1
I really like the aesthetic of the Ryovan build and was thinking of doing a similar wall construction for my weekend camper. I'm more concerned with preventing mold & rust than with having a perfectly insulated van. I like that the walls are partially open to allow more airflow to dry out any moisture in the insulation. Also, the ability to lash stuff to the wood slats is really practical. What do you think of this concept?

70417
 

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MMXVI - L2H2 in IN
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I see nothing wrong with it, the breathable membrane I would question, the black scrim on the Thinsulate would serve as a breathable membrane.

Ok now I see Ryovan breathable membrane, I would just call it fabric.
 

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2014, 138WB, High Roof, Gas
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Hi,
You might want to read over this insulation test to understand condensation with porous insulations (like Thinsulate) and non porous insulations (like polyiso).

Your setup should perform very close to the test as it also allows free circulation of air behind the wall panels. This assumes that the breathable membrane is fairly open to air circulation.

Basically, the porous insulations will result in condensation in cool/cold weather (whenever the outside air temperature is below the dew point of the air in the van). With your arrangement (allowing more air circulation behind the wall) there will be more condensation, but it will also result in faster drying once the air in the van is dryer.
Non-porous insulation will normally not produce condensation because the inside surface of the insulation will be above the dew point of the van air.



Gary
 

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MMXVI - L2H2 in IN
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2018 3500 EXT
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Hi,
You might want to read over this insulation test to understand condensation with porous insulations (like Thinsulate) and non porous insulations (like polyiso).

Your setup should perform very close to the test as it also allows free circulation of air behind the wall panels. This assumes that the breathable membrane is fairly open to air circulation.

Basically, the porous insulations will result in condensation in cool/cold weather (whenever the outside air temperature is below the dew point of the air in the van). With your arrangement (allowing more air circulation behind the wall) there will be more condensation, but it will also result in faster drying once the air in the van is dryer.
Non-porous insulation will normally not produce condensation because the inside surface of the insulation will be above the dew point of the van air.



Gary

My opinions closly parallel @GaryBIS regarding the insulation, condensation, and mould building science.

Many DIYers are kinda “experimenters” by nature. If you do proceed with your design it would be good to record the results over the years & post them on this forum for all of us to learn from. Building Science theory suggests to me there are better ways to insulate a van than your design. I will say it is good to think outside of the box for solutions, vet them, & then prove it good or bad based upon testing.

The following are reasons I believe your design would perform inferior to a total spray foam or polyiso filled in with “Great Stuff” (walls & ceilings) & high load XPS on the floor. I also like the aesthetics of the “teahouse”, however I am not considering the aesthetics here just insulation performance. The conundrum here is a “Double Vapour Barrier” - it is not accepted in buildings & I do not like it in vans, but we inherit this problem somewhat by insulating a van & camperizing it.

insulation performs poorer if air is allowed to migrate thru it

condensation will more easily form on the van skin (open transfer of water vapour)

the breathable layer is on the inside & can not be installed on the outside, where it normally would be

wood is mould food (you need to seal it well & at least it is on the inside, however depending on your interior RH & usage I could see dew forming on the wood & if not completely sealed it could absorb water)

dust & debris can be mould food & with an open breathable design if particles can get into the Thinsulate & then aquire enough moisture then you could have mould growth trapped in the Thinsulate.


Here i another thread on insulation & mould if you have not already read it. Lots of information & opinions there to digest;

 

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2014 136” HR
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I see a dust nightmare. Even in wetter climates, vans collect dust. Do you really want to try to clean slat by slat? My experience in other situations is that vacuum does not pick up fine layers of dust. For that, you need to either wipe or blow. Wiping would be impeded by every vertical. Blowing—well, use your imagination.
 

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2018 3500 EXT
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I see a dust nightmare. Even in wetter climates, vans collect dust. Do you really want to try to clean slat by slat? My experience in other situations is that vacuum does not pick up fine layers of dust. For that, you need to either wipe or blow. Wiping would be impeded by every vertical. Blowing—well, use your imagination.
I forgot to mention that, but feel the same way about some of these designs that “look really pleasing & artistic” but are difficult to keep clean.

A reason why we went with sealed wipeable hard surfaces & limited detailing.

I love the “show” look, but at the end of the day & what we have experienced is it really isn’t about the van, but where in the world we are travelling. Other than travel, & convenience (read Utility), my Wife & I focus on the adventure.

I assume it is the same for most,,,
 

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2018 2500 159-HR
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Interesting design, although I like the German modular design posted by Phil much better. The approach doesn't work for me mainly because I'm trying to maximize space by minimizing layers of furring depth, especially in our ceiling (we're both tall). Secondly I can't tie a knot to save my life, so I prefer screwing over lashing (take that wherever you will).
 
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