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I've been all over the web and many people have many opinions of how to properly insulate and what materials to use. The number one concern is the trapping of moisture. I welcome any insights here.

After considering all I've read I'm planning on using this: http://www.insulation4less.com/Insulation4lessProduct-19-Prodex-Total-16-inch.aspx with expanding foam to fill smaller spaces and hard to reach areas. But this is not set in stone - I am open to all advice and experiences that any of you have to offer!

Thanks in advance!
 

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I've been all over the web and many people have many opinions of how to properly insulate and what materials to use. The number one concern is the trapping of moisture. I welcome any insights here.

After considering all I've read I'm planning on using this: http://www.insulation4less.com/Insulation4lessProduct-19-Prodex-Total-16-inch.aspx with expanding foam to fill smaller spaces and hard to reach areas. But this is not set in stone - I am open to all advice and experiences that any of you have to offer!

Thanks in advance!
This is the stuff I am going to use for part of my isolation. Mine is actually called reflectix, but I think it's the same thing, air bubble aluminum paper.

I have no worries about this product, I checked on an highly active French camping van forum, a lot of people use this stuff as a first layer for isolation. Also, a friend has that installed since a couple years and did not notice any humidity problems.

But be aware that this product will give you minimal thermal isolation and no soundproofing. Most people that use this product add a second layer of thermal isolation, at least that'is was I read.

For noise reduction on the wheel covers, I highly recommend the "dynamat" like stuff I put on my wheels, it's really effective:

http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=38354&postcount=8
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is the stuff I am going to use for part of my isolation. Mine is actually called reflectix, but I think it's the same thing, air bubble aluminum paper.

I have no worries about this product, I checked on an highly active French camping van forum, a lot of people use this stuff as a first layer for isolation. Also, a friend has that installed since a couple years and did not notice any humidity problems.

But be aware that this product will give you minimal thermal isolation and no soundproofing. Most people that use this product add a second layer of thermal isolation, at least that'is was I read.

For noise reduction on the wheel covers, I highly recommend the "dynamat" like stuff I put on my wheels, it's really effective:

http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=38354&postcount=8
Actually, that's why I'm considering Prodex, it gives R16 insulation, has no moisture problems, is a vapor barrier and reduces noise by 19db (with the walls panels that should be significant.) Here's info from the website: "R16: unaffected by humidity : Prevents 97% of radiant heat transfer : Vapor barrier : Elastic : 19dba noise reduction : Does not promote mold or mildew: Keeps its shape over time (doesn't collapse)"
 

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To protect from condensation in the walls we need a continuous vapor barrier near the inside wall. Something like Prodex would be good as long as you seal all the seams.
 

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To protect from condensation in the walls we need a continuous vapor barrier near the inside wall. Something like Prodex would be good as long as you seal all the seams.
Papab, if I get you right, the bubble aluminum paper should be on the inside wall, not directly applied on the metal panels?

I plan to use for sound isolation on the side walls mineral wool (Roxul). I does not provide great heat isolation, but I mostly care about the noise.

So, I should put the mineral wool and then the aluminum paper, right?

Thanks!
 

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Flooring--- Just purchased (3) 4x8 sheets of .25" ABS plastic to line my floor with, just under $300.00.
I prefer rubber mats but not at the risk of the smell. I doubt you'll find rubber mats that don't smell. I installed one in my Sprinter 3 years ago and it still smells. Whatever you put down, I'd suggest 2 layers of 15# roofing felt underneath.
Next, line the rear 7' with 1/4" ply, no insulation, too risky for moisture buildup and the tools will survive. Front 5', 1/4" ply with glue-down carpet for a nice finish. Will apply thin insulation layer directly to the panels, mostly for sound deadening and leave an air space so that air moves through all of the wall and exits via the (2) vents that are in the rear of the van, as designed. Insulation is great until it traps moisture.
 

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I've been all over the web and many people have many opinions of how to properly insulate and what materials to use. The number one concern is the trapping of moisture. I welcome any insights here.

After considering all I've read I'm planning on using this: http://www.insulation4less.com/Insulation4lessProduct-19-Prodex-Total-16-inch.aspx with expanding foam to fill smaller spaces and hard to reach areas. But this is not set in stone - I am open to all advice and experiences that any of you have to offer!

Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the link
I ordered last night and I have no van yet! :)
But at least I will be ready for it.
 

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Hello, just saw the post here for using ABS plastic but wishing for rubber that doesnt smell.

We offer a rigid HDPE plastic floor with a Rubberized surface that will give you the best of both worlds. Our floor wouldn't cost you any more than you paid by the time you cut and install it, and it is totally done for you. We also offer the wall and ceiling liner that you see in the pictures as well. These panels are a honeycomb cellular material, so help a lot with noise deadening and also temperature and moisture control as the have an interior air gab to help prevent moisture build up.

Take a look at the picture and let me know if you have any questions.

Regards,

Kyle Carpani
Sales Manager
Legend Fleet Solutions
866-223-2256
 

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Prodex Insulation

Just wondered how those that used the Prodex like it?? How was it installed? Directly onto the metal or with an air space? Any concerns with off gassing?

Reading about it, it seems like the perfect product for insulating a PM.... Thoughts??
 

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I've been all over the web and many people have many opinions of how to properly insulate and what materials to use. The number one concern is the trapping of moisture. I welcome any insights here.

After considering all I've read I'm planning on using this: http://www.insulation4less.com/Insulation4lessProduct-19-Prodex-Total-16-inch.aspx with expanding foam to fill smaller spaces and hard to reach areas. But this is not set in stone - I am open to all advice and experiences that any of you have to offer!

Thanks in advance!
According to their documentation, Prodex is 5mm thick and requires an "Airspace of 2.64 inch on each side of product" to achieve the R16. This is similar to Reflectix. Without the air space your get about R1-2 iirc.

I recommend the Thinsulate we sell. Prodex would make a great moisture barrier on the inside before your wall panels. It's a proven method. Thinsulate will be much quieter over a broader frequency spectrum due to it's thickness. Absorption of low frequencies (road rumble, Harley passing) requires a thick material.
 

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I'm in the process of doing my van.
On the walls I'm starting with:
25% coverage or more butyl rubber sound mat
thin closed cell foam (de-coupler)
Mass loaded vinyl sheet
thin closed cell foam (de-coupler)
1" foam
Propex or ezcool (same stuff) Ebay for best deal
Thinsulate 1/2" thick stuff
Thinsulate on inside of exposed panel
Thinsulate under upholstery

The roof is going to be Propex attached with thick double sided tape so there will be some air space in the channels followed by multilayers of thiner thinsulate as described above.
I'm also using adhesive backed aluminum coated foam (duct insulation)in select areas.

My sound proofing will be limited to the side walls and heavy around the wheel wells, the roof is not that critical as not much sound comes from above.
I'm using spay adhesive, aluminum tape, and 3m double sided tape

It is a tedious process to cut and fit all the pieces for maximum sound and insulation.
 

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I'm in the process of doing my van.
On the walls I'm starting with:
25% coverage or more butyl rubber sound mat
thin closed cell foam (de-coupler)
Mass loaded vinyl sheet
thin closed cell foam (de-coupler)
1" foam
Propex or ezcool (same stuff) Ebay for best deal
Thinsulate 1/2" thick stuff
Thinsulate on inside of exposed panel
Thinsulate under upholstery

The roof is going to be Propex attached with thick double sided tape so there will be some air space in the channels followed by multilayers of thiner thinsulate as described above.
I'm also using adhesive backed aluminum coated foam (duct insulation)in select areas.

My sound proofing will be limited to the side walls and heavy around the wheel wells, the roof is not that critical as not much sound comes from above.
I'm using spay adhesive, aluminum tape, and 3m double sided tape

It is a tedious process to cut and fit all the pieces for maximum sound and insulation.
When you get old and half deaf, like me, you won't have to even consider sound deadening:laugh:
 

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Most of the materials are cheap, MLV, closed cell foam (floor underlayment) foam butyl rubber all at home depot cheap, 3m thinsulate at some fabric stores online, propex ebay.
Also swimming pool liner is a closed cell poly. Allot of the same materials used in auto soundproofing is used in other applications and tend to be lower cost when not marketed as auto related.It I had the bucks I would use all aerogel insulation.
 

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Hello, just saw the post here for using ABS plastic but wishing for rubber that doesnt smell.

We offer a rigid HDPE plastic floor with a Rubberized surface that will give you the best of both worlds. Our floor wouldn't cost you any more than you paid by the time you cut and install it, and it is totally done for you. We also offer the wall and ceiling liner that you see in the pictures as well. These panels are a honeycomb cellular material, so help a lot with noise deadening and also temperature and moisture control as the have an interior air gab to help prevent moisture build up.

Take a look at the picture and let me know if you have any questions.

Regards,

Kyle Carpani
Sales Manager
Legend Fleet Solutions
866-223-2256


That is a very nice looking interior.
Do you have a kit that includes the aluminum roof line trims?
Do the stock wall panels need to be removed for this kit?
What is the cost of this setup for a low roof 136"?

Thank you!
 

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That is a very nice looking interior.
Do you have a kit that includes the aluminum roof line trims?
Do the stock wall panels need to be removed for this kit?
What is the cost of this setup for a low roof 136"?

Thank you!
Thanks for the compliment, it does make the interior a lot more aesthetically pleasing and professional than raw wood and such will do.

Our Complete Kit includes the aluminum trim plates on the ceiling as well as the side and rear doors.

The stock wall panels would need to be removed i assume, although i have never actually tried installing our kit with them left in.

Our Complete Kit for the 136"LR ProMaster retails at $2057. This includes Flooring, Wall Liner, Ceiling Liner, Side, Rear, and Ceiling Aluminum Sills, and all fastening hardware. I understand that this may be slightly more than what material costs for plywood etc, would be, but these materials are designed to be the best fit for each aspect. The flooring is designed to look good for years, and to be anti-slip and still able to pallet load. The walls are durable, but weight 70% less than plywood while being easy to clean and splinter free.

Let me know if you have any other questions, and where you might be located so we can find a dealer near you.

Kyle Carpani
Sales Manager
Legend Fleet Solutions
 

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I'm in the process of doing my van.
On the walls I'm starting with:
25% coverage or more butyl rubber sound mat
thin closed cell foam (de-coupler)
Mass loaded vinyl sheet
thin closed cell foam (de-coupler)
1" foam
Propex or ezcool (same stuff) Ebay for best deal
Thinsulate 1/2" thick stuff
Thinsulate on inside of exposed panel
Thinsulate under upholstery

The roof is going to be Propex attached with thick double sided tape so there will be some air space in the channels followed by multilayers of thiner thinsulate as described above.
I'm also using adhesive backed aluminum coated foam (duct insulation)in select areas.

My sound proofing will be limited to the side walls and heavy around the wheel wells, the roof is not that critical as not much sound comes from above.
I'm using spay adhesive, aluminum tape, and 3m double sided tape

It is a tedious process to cut and fit all the pieces for maximum sound and insulation.
There is no need for all the other sound deadening layers and materials if you use Thinsulate SM600L which is almost 2" thick. Then a a moisture barrier of Reflectix or Easycool and your done. Maybe a little bit of damping on those panels that are excitable.

I would highly recommend Thinsulate in the roof for when you are trying to sleep when it is raining.

Please be aware that mass loading of panels (Dynamat ,etc) is only really necessary if you have a very powerful audio system that rattles the vehicle. It is NOT a barrier.

Using SM600L Thinsulate will save you effort and money. And will be a selling point when you ultimately sell your van. Keep it simple, folks.

Please PM or email me if you would like a sample.
 
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