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Discussion Starter #1
I have a pile of insulation left over from silencing the cargo area on my van.

I am one of those for whom "too quiet" doesn't exist. I chase down every squeak and creak immediately.

I noticed that underneath the seats, where the cab steps down to the cargo floor, there is a hollow area. I want to fill it with insulation before capping it with a kick plate.

Any reason *not* to do this? Anything 'important' in there that shouldn't be insulated over?

See pic for the area (inside the holes at center) of interest/suspicion.

https://picasaweb.google.com/mike.curiak/KTTRV?authkey=Gv1sRgCM_hlvaq2PWeNw#6301629630729320098
 

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I have a pile of insulation left over from silencing the cargo area on my van.

I am one of those for whom "too quiet" doesn't exist. I chase down every squeak and creak immediately.

I noticed that underneath the seats, where the cab steps down to the cargo floor, there is a hollow area. I want to fill it with insulation before capping it with a kick plate.

Any reason *not* to do this? Anything 'important' in there that shouldn't be insulated over?

See pic for the area (inside the holes at center) of interest/suspicion.

https://picasaweb.google.com/mike.curiak/KTTRV?authkey=Gv1sRgCM_hlvaq2PWeNw#6301629630729320098
mikesee,

I could not find any reason why not to. I have just recently installed an abs cap over that area but, I'm going to remove it and insulate as well.

I installed some Plusnuts into the face so I had a good look before drilling. It is a hollow double wall beam that is heavily reinforced for the seats and tie down anchors.

I would suggest that you may want to maintain access to the tie-down anchors and the screw tabs that are on the B pillar plastic cover.

Cheers,

Dave
 

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MsNomer,

As far as I know you can not access the interior of the beam. I shawn a light through the holes in the face and peered down through the holes in the top of the beam. You have to lift up the floor insulation to access the holes in the top of the beam, it's a very limited view but, it was enough to assure me that I was not going to drill into anything vital. I've considered buying one of those mechanics remote camera gadgets for peering into many of the PM's tight spots.

Cheers,

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the response. My original thought was to fill it with Great Stuff or similar, since life is short and stuffing little bits of insulation through those tiny holes might take days.

Then I thought it might be easy to cut a few small holes -- essentially enlarging the existing holes in that face. That'd make stuffing insulation through there much easier, and be less messy/less permanent than Great Stuff.

Thoughts?
 

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I wouldn’t do either. The losses due to that beam via convection and radiation must be much less than through conduction and access would be lost. That being said I have used great stuff to block rodent entry in cars and to hold together panels that were so rusted they let air and rain inside so I am familiar with the idea I just don’t see the reason. Don’t do it, as it is so easy to do but so hard to undo. If you cover it like Dave is/has put some polyiso under the cover. That will stop all three heat movements which will probably be more effective and not disturb the beam. Just say'n
 

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Fyi

MrNomer wanted to put several rivnuts in the vertical face behind the seats to help anchor the new battery box. Of these holes he drilled, only the rightmost one is clear. The other two hit the beam.

 

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MrNomer wanted to put several rivnuts in the vertical face behind the seats to help anchor the new battery box. Of these holes he drilled, only the rightmost one is clear. The other two hit the beam.

MsNomer,

When you say the left holes were not clear, do you mean when drilling he hit a second layer of the beam?

This is what happened when I drilled, so I double checked and found that the beam had a double wall that in some locations is separated by approximately 1/4". I drilled through both layers and used Plus Nuts. I think that in the locations where the beam is heavily reinforced the double wall is press together and spot welded.

Cheers,

Dave
 

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He quit when he hit the second layer. You are looking at his first ever rivnut. He wasn't looking to push his luck. This thing isn't going anywhere anyway.
 

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2015 Promaster 3500 159 Ext gas silver
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I built a transition piece out of 3/4" OSB that joins my floor to the cab. In the center I used 3/8 thick commercial carpet that will also cover the walk surfaces in my camper. I also considered filling the box beam but as was mentioned the conduction losses mean that the most effective insulation is between the box beam and interior. In the first pic you can see the vertical polyiso in varying thicknesses to achieve a flat vertical surface. I was able to add 1/2" polyiso before installing the custom cut top OSB piece with biscuits at the 90 degree joint.
 

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Wow that makes a nice transition. Good Job!
 
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