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Discussion Starter #1
Who has used in their conversion? I'd like to see some example pictures, especially if you have done a queen bed, width wise across the van. I'm considering mounting 2x6 on rear rails and slotting for 2x4 side/center support for the slats, has anyone else don this?
 

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I did it with steel. Also I did it level instead of parallel to the rails and floor. An RV Queen also called a Short Queen fits nicely.
I used 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 3/16" angle (picture says 3x3 but it's not) and 1 1/4" sq. tube with 1/4" plywood on top.
 

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Prince? Odd how fast you go from court jester to prince! I bought the bed slats called LURÖY slats and the mattress called BEDDINGE LÖVÅS 551/8”X74” X4” Both together were $140. I had to cut down the mattress a bit to work but used the origional cover. I used some 5/4 oak I already had for the slats to rest on and attached them. They lie on the 1/2 inch hardwood plywood which is attached to the wheel wells, simple! See my build thread for ideas, I have essentially NO FRAME, no 2X4 no steel, no attachment to the side walls, yet it is structurally strong and very lightweight. KISS. 2X4’s have no place in a van conversion! See: http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37177&page=12 scroll down.
 
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KISS the prince and the frog appears! Or, is it the other way around? Either way "Don't let the bed bugs bite" ;)
 

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... I need to source some rivnuts to secure the brackets for the beams to the sides.

If you mean to the horizontal framework of the van, a nut and washer will hold a lot better than a rivnut. Those big old slots top and bottom give plenty of room to get in there with your fingers.
McMaster Carr has a lot of hardware including the rivnuts and tools you want.
 

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If you mean to the horizontal framework of the van, a nut and washer will hold a lot better than a rivnut. Those big old slots top and bottom give plenty of room to get in there with your fingers.
McMaster Carr has a lot of hardware including the rivnuts and tools you want.
You're definitely right as far as the bed beam brackets being attached. I used nuts and washers. I had to use a magnet to get a couple nuts started in the middle area since it isn't accessible from behind)under. Im in the middle of getting the slats to stay in place etc, but they fit length wise! Been posting the progress in the build area.





 

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Discussion Starter #11
Great idea!

You're definitely right as far as the bed beam brackets being attached. I used nuts and washers. I had to use a magnet to get a couple nuts started in the middle area since it isn't accessible from behind)under. Im in the middle of getting the slats to stay in place etc, but they fit length wise! Been posting the progress in the build area.





I really like how you did this. Though I'm not sure why folks think Rivnuts are less secure? With red locktite I would think them secure enough for a bed.
 

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I really like how you did this. Though I'm not sure why folks think Rivnuts are less secure? With red locktite I would think them secure enough for a bed.
Thanks, I'm still using the four factory rivnuts though. They are in the perfect position. My bed will be approx 50" wide using those for the outer beams. The center beam doesn't line up perfectly in the middle though, so one side of slats will just be trimmed a hair more. The Ikea double size slats are 26 1/2" wide each.

I'll probably go ahead and drill one more hole so there will be one additional bolt holding the weight at the outer corners in addition to the factory rivnuts.
 

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How did you attach the slats? Self taping screws?
The slats are held taught length wise with the little plastic nubs that are supposed to be used when building the bed normally the idea way. To keep them aligned from sliding off the sides I'll have to put some holes in the slats and beams. A normal bed would have sides or a bed rail on the sides that would keep the slats from sliding around side to side.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My supports arrived from Ikea last night, and I was surprised that they didn't come with the hangar hardware. I looked on the site and I can't find the hardware anywhere, guess I should have driven to a store. I am going to have to get creative because we are leaving tomorrow night for a 10 day trip.
 

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My supports arrived from Ikea last night, and I was surprised that they didn't come with the hangar hardware. I looked on the site and I can't find the hardware anywhere, guess I should have driven to a store. I am going to have to get creative because we are leaving tomorrow night for a 10 day trip.
I have the part #'s on my build page if that helps. Good luck getting something figured out for your trip!
 

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This is me thinking out loud. Maybe it will help others, too.

I'm excited about the IKEA solution for our van, but I've been worrying about how to keep the slats in place. I just remembered the queen bed my daughter has stored at our place is from IKEA, so took a look it. Just in case you have never seen one in action, here goes. All IKEA bed frames larger than twin use one SKORVA center support beam (901.245.34) running lengthwise up the center. Two separate LUROY slat units (unique to each bed size) span cross-ways, each one resting on an outside bed rail and the SKORVA center beam. The bed rails hold the slats in place on the outside, and the slats butt end-to-end on top of the SKORVA center beam, so they can't move. The slats within each LUROY slat unit are ribboned together to maintain spacing. Each slat unit is stretched taught lengthwise by securing the end slats behind little white plasic nubs sticking up at the ends of the bed rails and center beam. Simple and very effective.

Many RV conversions turn the whole thing 90 degrees and run up to 3 SKORVA beams across the van, like the ones in this thread. Our floorplan calls for a fixed bed at the back of the van, at the height of the PM's horizontal rail, like those in this thread. My floorplan has a partial wall at the end of the bed toward the front of the van. So I can build a "bed rail" into it, replacing one of the SKORVA beams, and trapping the slats at that end.

I still need 2 SKORVA beams. I'll attach a vertical board to the back side of rear one to act as the "bed rail" slat-stop. I will no longer be able to collapse (telescope) that rear SKORVA beam, but it should still lift out of its brackets, in case I want to remove the bed later (hauling home applicances, etc). I'll remove the extra slats and position little white nubs, same as IKEA. The nubs need to be placed so they keep the slats butted end-to-end along the center beam. That should do it, eh?
 
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