[HarryN]

I have no experience with the progressive dynamics power centers. I do wonder though - since it already has a fuse block built in - maybe it is possible to just attach all of your smaller DC items to it?

Example

• refrigerator
• solar charge controller
• lights
• etc.

Lights wise, I have had mixed luck with the puck lights and dimmers. Perhaps consider LED light strips for some of the applications.

Battery capacity wise, probably you have seen that I usually suggest to use 1 battery like that for every 500 - 600 watts of inverter capacity, so you can start with 2, but probably will end up with 3 or 4 eventually.

Solar wise - 400 watts is a completely different experience than 200 watts.

 

[HarryN]

Ok, will check the pucks later today....I 'think' they are dimmable, but I bought them a year+ago. I think I want to ditch the Renogy anyway since it's PWM, so putting solar on the pontoon roof where it will never get shading, the PWM makes more sense. So, then my option is to use the 150Amp Battery Doctor isolator and a new Mppt controller, or just by a combo unit like the Bogart? Kinda leaning towards the Bogart for the same reasons you mentioned:

Bogart Engineering Trimetric BMS

Trimetric BMS TM-2030 Battery Monitor, SC-2030 Solar Charger Shunt & accessories. Get more cycle life from your lead acid (flooded or AGM/Gel) batteries by automatically ensuring that they are fully charged every time. PWM MPPT RV Solar Charger

shop.bogartengineering.com

Kinda pricey though, so I am exploring other brands.

I do have the 180amp alternator.

Not sure about the other pwm units on the market. I have swapped out a failed renogy unit for a customer in the past. Since I use the bogart setup in the 24 volt setups (it does both 12 and 24) I used one that I have in stock. If you go down this path, make sure to get their WiFi module. This transmits the info to any OS / any device / any web browser, making the setup MUCH easier.

Sometimes decisions come down to if you don't mind fiddling with things while out on the road or not.

 

[HarryN]

Hi,
That's looking good to me.

The only comments...
- I have a breaker in the PV panel input line so I can shut off solar charging, and a switch in the line from alternator to the DC to DC so I can shut off alternator charging. I find I use these quite a bit. For example, when the van is sitting in the driveway between trips I don't want the solar charging up the house battery - that was fine with lead acid, but LFPs live longer if kept at part charge when resting between trips. There have bee other times when driving when I know the batteries will charge up with just solar, so might as well save the gasoline that runs the alternator.

- Not sure if the diagram shows a fuse where the wire leaves the van battery to go to the DC to DC charger, but there should be one there to protect against shorts to the chassis along this wire.

- I'm still doubtful about separate 150 amp fuses on each battery.
Its seems very uncommon to do, adds extra connections and components with their own failure possibilities, adds fuse and connection resistance which can vary for connection to connection and fuse to fuse in each battery circuit where you really want the resistance the same so the batteries share the load equally.
What kind of failures is having separate fuses protecting against, and is it worth the negatives?
Maybe our contingent of local electrical experts could comment - @HarryN @Baxsie @larry barello @RV8R @dog_house @diytech @SteveSS @Winston @jracca No doubt leaving some out, but you know who you are.
It would be nice if we could agree on some common advice.

Gary

Hi Gary - the diagram has been evolving quickly and there is more than enough advice without me adding on.

For the same reasons that you like to have a breaker:

• To shut off solar
• To shut off alternator charging

I like to have breakers:

• On each parallel battery string (especially for LiFe)
• On the feed over to the 12 volt fuse block

When possible, I try to have the breaker sized to trip faster than an over current BMS trip, but a BMS is usually quite a bit faster than a thermal breaker.

I don't have any experience on my test stand with these integrated units so I cannot really comment on them. I just don't have any burning need to try to use this approach so it isn't something that I am going to fund time / materials.

As you have seen from your own work, it is a substantial investment in materials and time to do real testing sufficient to be confident that something can ship to a customer with very low issue levels.

 

[HarryN]

I'm good with Dog House's diagram(thanks 🐶!). Switches/breakers/fuses....most likely will have a mixture and what I don't use on the PM it can go on the Pontoon's Solar system. "Stuff" is already starting to trickle in....:


I do like Clarks 4 position switch idea for sure & it seems neater and more useful than a plain ole busbar.

Consider to build up a proto of the main functions on a piece of plywood somewhere that is easy to work first.

Then when you are happy with the basic functions, moving it to the van is just a matter of building up new wires.

 

[HarryN]

Good idea, I was already thinking of building a pair of boxes that fit under the bunk with large access doors. One for the batteries, the other for most of the other components. Other than leads coming in(solar/shore/alternator leg/chassis ground) everything can be screwed down and cross wired. Slide box in, bolt it down and hook up the in-leads. Might need a cooling fan though.........

That way most of the wiring can be done while standing at a table, with full light & full access. It may not be practical, but worth more thought......

I completely get it.

That is why I build this product - the suitcase holds the majority of the electronics.

A similar box ( taller ) optionally holds the batteries.

It is a good strategy IMHO but of course I am biased.

That is why it is called a 2 x XBP = 2 kW inverter x eXternal Battery Pack

Just to let you know, that package size would not be possible with a 12 volt setup but once you have the first proto built, it will become more obvious how to box it all up.

Sometimes it takes a few tries and some drinking to get it all to fit.

The photo to the left of my user name is first one of those in the field - it is in a Transit.

2 x XBP power system | Harry Niedecken

ugged applications power systemRugged power systemHighly resistant to water splash and dustConstructionThe case holds the electronics and protects them from casual contact of people, light dust and day to day spillsMount within 20 feet of your own battery pack or use our battery case to hold the...

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