[Winston]

Ok, will check the pucks later today....

A comment on puck lighting. We use pucks and intended, also, to include dimmers. But it turned out that our pucks weren't unreasonably bright, standing alone. We have seven of them and generally have them switched, either as single pucks or in pairs. Our dinette, for example, has two pucks and a 'double throw' switch - - 'center' is off; 'down' lights 1 dinette puck; 'up' both dinette pucks. The bottom line turned out, since we desired control over our pucks either singly or in small groups, we effectively achieved dimming, not by using dimmers, but by selecting which lights we turned-on. We never installed the dimmers.

 

[Winston]

It is probably too late for this comment, but the use of a combo charger/inverter solves your problem of having 'shore power' outlets as well as providing an important additional source of charging. These combo units operate on the principle that if you're not plugged in, the inverter will supply power to your outlets. When, and instantaneously, when you plug into short power, your outlets are automatically switched to shore power and the inverter is turned off. And, of course, combo units have built-in chargers to recharge you house batteries while you're on shore power.

You can achieve some of the above with a simple automatic switchover unit which, again, automatically switches your outlets between shore power and inverter power - - but have no charging capability. This might work better for you considering you already own the inverter.

 

[Winston]

The "shunt" display should give you the remaining information you need to know (battery SOC). Consider the EcoWorthy battery monitor. It uses a current sensor and is super easy to install.

Larry, isn't the EcoWorthy a Hall effect monitor? Personally, we elected a shunt-based monitor in the belief that the latter was more accurate.

 

[Winston]

In my testing it was generally close to the values reported by the internal shunts of the Renogy Smart Lithium batteries.

Thanks for your comments on the accuracy. We have a Hall effect meter sitting on our workbench and were contemplating using it to measure 2nd alternator current. With your positive comments we'll go ahead and install it. Having a similar "electric gadget itch" - - can't have too many meters!

 

[Winston]

And we're not understanding why the output of the MPPT Controller is going to the Distribution Panel (AC???), rather than the House Battery?

 

[Winston]

To further clarify our concerns, you should show the blue 120 VAC output from the inverter/charger as connected to your AC distribution panel. The output from your MPPT controller should be connected to your DC Bus (which we define as the point immediately after your House Battery fuses (essentially the DC input/output of your inverter/charger); and, this same "DC Bus" then connects to your DC Distribution Panel.

Further, in our system all of our AC devices are routed through the AC Distribution Panel - - we're not sure why you've elected to connect your Hot Water Heater directly to the inverter/charger.

 

[Winston]

And isn’t the negative from the Kisae DMT-1250 to the distribution panel missing?

We think there's been some confusion in the labeling and 'wiring' of the AC and DC Distribution Panels in the latest schematic. We think the 'negative' terminal shown connected to the AC Panel should be shown connected to the DC Panel. Indeed, the "grounding" of the AC Distribution (Panel) is presumably controlled by the inverter/charger (we're unfamiliar with this particular unit) as there is to be no ground when connected to shore power - - the grounding occurs at the AC Supply Post at the campsite and, when on local inverter power, just the opposite, the AC Distribution (Panel) must be grounded to the vehicle.

 

[Winston]

As for the missing Pos leg from the 1250, could I make that connection on the Blue Sea ON/OFF switch?

To answer your question, we'll ask a question: What is the purpose of the Blue Sea ON/OFF switch? What you trying to accomplish by this switch?

 

[Winston]

To turn off the battery bank from the Inverter.

Wow, tough to follow this very active thread!

In any event, in answering our question as to the purpose of the switch, you didn't mention the MPPT controller. Of course, depending on where you 'tie-in' the MPPT controller, that switch will also switch-off the MPPT controller or it won't. We don't understand the need for switches to disable apparatus in the first place. In our system, we can disable each of the devices, e.g. our MPPT controller, our shore charger/power, and our inverter, at each respective device without need for any switches.

But in determining your wiring and switch locations, we think additional answers are required such as "why do you want to switch-off your inverter/charger?" And, if switched-off, do you want to lose charging from your MPPT and alternator at the same time? Indeed, if you're into external switches (again, as opposed to merely activing/de-activating each device at the device, itself), maybe you need multiple switches - - one for the inverter charger, one for the MPPT and alternator? And, by the way, are there times that you'll want to independently switch-off your solar panels? Your alternator?