[ananda]

I just got the Kisae DMT1230 DC to DC battery charger and planning my electrical install and layout. The Kisae requires a wire to connect it to the "ignition start". Can anyone offer help on where a practical "ignition start" connection might be made to my 2017 2500 159 Promaster? Thanks

Edited to add: Per discussion with Kisae, the voltage source needed is from something that is powered only when the key switch in the ON (ignition start ) position, and not in the accessory power position.

So my question refines to: what devices are only powered only when the key switch in the ON (ignition start ) position? From there perhaps I can find that device wiring at the main fuse box to tap into.

 

[Wavlen]

Also would like someone to advise on this. I have a Projecta DC to DC charger that requires the same connection. I have found the "Ignition feed" in the upfit connector in the B column and intend to try that. It seems to be "live" only when the ignition is turned on. I would like to know first though if anyone else has tried that option?

 

[RDinNHandAZ]

I used the feed to the rear power outlet (cig. lighter) for my simple solenoid but the forward one may be better if you don’t have the rear optional one. The lighter sockets can supply a good deal of current and the CANBUS ignores them generally.

 

[ananda]

I ended up taping into the wire to dash cigar lighter.

 

[Winston]

I ended up taping into the wire to dash cigar lighter.

Doesn't the cigarette lighter 'come-on' in the Accessory position, too?

 

[tgregg]

I just got the Kisae DMT1230 DC to DC battery charger and planning my electrical install and layout. The Kisae requires a wire to connect it to the "ignition start". Can anyone offer help on where a practical "ignition start" connection might be made to my 2017 2500 159 Promaster? Thanks

Edited to add: Per discussion with Kisae, the voltage source needed is from something that is powered only when the key switch in the ON (ignition start ) position, and not in the accessory power position.

So my question refines to: what devices are only powered only when the key switch in the ON (ignition start ) position? From there perhaps I can find that device wiring at the main fuse box to tap into.

There are 2 connections in the upfitter terminal block in the bottom of the passenger side B post that might be useful.

One is active when the ignition switch is ON.

The other is active when the engine is running.

Not sure. Of the pin numbers right now, but it's in the upfitters guide.

I use them both to control the battery combiner relay that connects my house batteries to the alternator because I don't want to connect them unless the engine is running.

Unless I want to 'jump start' a dead engine battery and then I have a manual over ride for that function.

 

[Melmike]

I used the upfitter connection block on the B column passenger side to actuate my Stinger switch. The Stinger just connects or disconnects the house to the vehicle battery. I removed the B column cover trim which conceals the upfitter connection then tested the pins until I found one that was on with the ignition actuated. A standard pin will fit into the connection. I did have a picture of the pin that I used, but can't find it.

Hope this helps,
Mike

 

[keeponvaning]

As I remember the lighter on the dash has a very small gauge wire feeding it. I don't know how many amps it will carry but something to be aware of. A safer place to connect to is either the up-fitters connection or into the fuse block on the left side of the steering wheel.

 

[jagarcia89]

I used the upfitter connection block on the B column passenger side to actuate my Stinger switch. The Stinger just connects or disconnects the house to the vehicle battery. I removed the B column cover trim which conceals the upfitter connection then tested the pins until I found one that was on with the ignition actuated. A standard pin will fit into the connection. I did have a picture of the pin that I used, but can't find it.

Hope this helps,
Mike

Sorry to dig up an old one, but I am interested in using the same set up and had some clarification questions: According to the body builder site the ignition on pin is only rated for 600mA. Has that been adequate in operating the stinger relay? For the power wire itself that does the actual charging- did you wire direct from the starting battery or use the always hot 2 wire power connector in upfitter connector at the B pillar. Mine says it's rated for 70Amps

 

[Melmike]

Sorry to dig up an old one, but I am interested in using the same set up and had some clarification questions: According to the body builder site the ignition on pin is only rated for 600mA. Has that been adequate in operating the stinger relay? For the power wire itself that does the actual charging- did you wire direct from the starting battery or use the always hot 2 wire power connector in upfitter connector at the B pillar. Mine says it's rated for 70Amps

Hi,

Please see picture below. I did have a schematic for the upfitter block, but cannot find it. As you can see I used the bottom right plug which is rated for 10 amps. It has worked very well for a couple of years now. Test the connection with a meter prior to use just to convince yourself.

I just ran the wire up the post, over the top and down to where the stinger switch is located.

For battery charging I wired directly to the main battery. My latest diagram is also attached.

Mike