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Discussion Starter #1
I have a white one with clear coat.
It gets bigger and bigger every time I wash it.
I think it might be time to make it gigantic by waxing it.
The goal is to protect the paint but I have never gotten into wax on, wax off before and could use some help with how this may be done.
Suggestions please.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Actually I am not dreading it I am looking forward to it, but I am sure that will get old. I don’t want to damage the clear coat, so I am shy of something that will clean and wax at the same time. Maybe there are some things that bo both non abrasively? Power tools also could be used wrong and cut into the coating. The wax on, wax off scene that you posted is more what I am looking for but also tips on what kind of wax and cloths and techniques.
 

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Get Meguiar’s cleaner/wax(https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-A1214-Cleaner-Wax-Paste/dp/B0009IQX0E) two nice soft old towels and the applicator under the lid. One can will do the van twice+ I do mine once a year, not on a sunny day, have the van surface cool. Wash the van, begin at the top on a ladder and smear a small amount of the wax on and swirl it to clean any residual. Give it about 10 minutes to dry and towel off the section using new sections of the towel. You can do the whole van in 2-1/2 hours after the wash/dry. Don’t get the wax on the black plastic. This is really easier than it seems and I rather enjoy it (once a year). In my 55 years of car ownership I have come to this. Its a ZEN thing. $7.50 instead of ?$$??$$$$
 

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Get yourself a cheap orbital buffer with the microfiber cloth pads from Walmart, Auto Zone, etc.
I have always used one to save me from the hand rubbing to get the wax off. It actually works way better than buffing by hand too. Rub a nice paste wax on the whole van and let it dry, then let the buffer do all the work for you! Use a cloth for the hard to reach areas the buffer can't get. Once you try it you will never wax without it.
 

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I've used a 6-inch 120VAC orbital for years - a 10-inch proved too large unless working on airplane wings or something.

A trick they use to buff Airstream trailer aluminum shells is toss a soft terry cloth towel onto the surface and drop the orbital buffer pad onto it, don't let it whip around and don't let it get eaten between the pad and housing, and reposition the towel working surface often when removing wax. That it a huge surface area and the stores want lots of money for extra bonnets --- also, if towel/bonnet/something touches the ground don't let it back on the paint; beware grit around wheel well openings and down low on the rocker panels missed during washes... one piece of quartz sand or the like can make miles of scratches if we are not careful.

Careful with 'cleaner' waxes, find a clear-coat safe 'polish', Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax did great service on my '99 F150 AFTER other wax failed and the clear coat got holes burned through it on the hood and roof.
 

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Clay bar first. Then you don't need a cleaner wax. It's less work overall because the clay bar removes the microscopic grime better and with much less effort than a cleaner wax. After clay bar you are basically just applying wax and buffing it. No need to put as much force into the wax application.
 

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Anyone else have tiny rust spots on their van? I had some on the back doors which I rubbed out a month ago, now I see the sides are covered. Much worse than the sprinter that I had.
 

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No, rust on my body panels, living at beach. Rusted door latches and stainless slider door track. Rust on stainless door track can be polished out.

Usually rust that can be rubbed out on painted panels, is surface contamination rust. You been parked near any place doing metal grinding or welding?
 

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Anyone else have tiny rust spots on their van? I had some on the back doors which I rubbed out a month ago, now I see the sides are covered. Much worse than the sprinter that I had.
That's not good. Can you post some pictures?

Mike
 

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Rust is on front, both sides, and was on back before buffing off. I will try to take pictures soon. I drive a lot 14k since August. I have done some welding/grinding but truck was 50 ft away.
 

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Rust is on front, both sides, and was on back before buffing off. I will try to take pictures soon. I drive a lot 14k since August. I have done some welding/grinding but truck was 50 ft away.
This is a very isolated occurrence. No one, to my knowledge, has reported a problem with rust here.

I have over 73k miles and three winters on my Promaster munch of it driven in the great salty Northeast. I never park it in the garage unless there is a big snowstorm forecast (probably 3 or 4 times in a year).

If you are having rust problems it is most likely because of one of two reasons - a poor paint job (unlikely) you have parked need a source of metal filings as mentioned above.

Good luck and please post photos.
 

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I just got done doing a wash and wax. It’s an annual rite of passage for any vehicle I own until they get so old and beat their value drops below about $5K. That means I don’t have to do any of my 4 motorcycles or the Metropolitan scooter, the 2000 Suzuki GV, or the 2002 Toyota 4 Runner. Doing the ’95 Merlot Miata M edition and the PM van are about as far on the ends of the work spectrum as you can get size wise. The van takes my 6 foot step ladder, about $5 worth of quarters at the local wash-your-own place, and about 1/3 of a can of Meguiars Cleaner Wax. http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/a1214-cleaner-wax-paste/
I need that because I drove it onto some desert roads and got some “desert pinstripes” on it. Just a tiny bit of rubb’n and they are gone. With new wax it is definitely faster and gets better fuel mileage too. Plus I am stylin’ in this shiny rig! Wahoo look at me!
 

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Rust is on front, both sides, and was on back before buffing off. I will try to take pictures soon. I drive a lot 14k since August. I have done some welding/grinding but truck was 50 ft away.
If it could be cleaned off and wasn't due to a visible chip in the paint, it's not the van that's rusting, it's contamination from the air that's landing on the van and rusting.
 

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IMO unless you just feel like wasting time (Or want to work out your arms), skip the waxes and use a synthetic sealant. They are far easier to apply, last way longer and you will get the same (and probably better) results. Mequire's makes one called M21 that I have been using on my Ford van. I did wet sand and buff the entire vehicle, but after adding the Mequires it's like a mirror. Dirt literally slides off of it and it lasts a very long time.

It's not cheap, but it's a steal when you subtract the hours of labor it would take to properly wax a vehicle the size of the ProMaster.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mir...F8&qid=1491398352&sr=8-1&keywords=meguires+21
 
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