Ram Promaster Forum banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'll be attempting my over head cabinets in the next couple of weeks, and I know nothing about hinges (or cabinet building). Does anyone know if they make Euro style hinges that lock in the open position? I would really like to avoid the gas shocks if possible. Also, can anyone recommend a retailer that carries up-opening hinges? Thank you in advance for anyone willing point me in the right direction.

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,866 Posts
If you haven't built yet... consider down-opening cabinet doors for the overhead... I just used a just a regular hinge and (an under $1) RV snap-catch at the top. Solid, secure, and when you open the door, you get full access inside.

Just some food for thought...

On my 2 back cabinets, I added a fold down coat hook on the wall next to the cabinet. If I fold it down, the door becomes a shelf. I use it to put stuff on when I'm looking for something in the fridge (that's below the cabinet) or in the brush/mirror/medicine cabinet (that's over the toilet)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
We have Hafele hinges in our van.


I don't like them. They rely on a plastic disc inside to create friction to hold them up. The plastic discs wear out and I haven't found a way to just buy the 10 cent plastic disc. Plus, the hinges are big and take up a lot of space. I'm using has shocks in my new van build out.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,330 Posts
I believe they do make euro hinges that will stay in the open position from the top but they would have to be heavy enough to carry the weight depending on the cabinet door expensive also most likely. Why do you dislike the gas shocks. I use them all the time and they are inexpensive and fantastic plus take up next to no space. The beauty of top hinged doors is they are up out of the way when open and you can drive with them open (if you forget to close them) plus no laches are required .
64254
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,336 Posts
I have the same (irrational?) aversion to shocks, so I went with these Southco torque hinges. We are very happy with them, but I was surprised to find that my very light-weight doors still needed this bigger, stronger model. There are also cheap Chinese knock-offs, which I haven't tried.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
207 Posts
I used these - Amazon
They work really well, but my doors are not very heavy. The tension is adjustable.
Here is a view from the inside of the cabinets.
DSC01865.JPG


And the outside.
DSC01870.JPG

DSC01871.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,330 Posts
Gas struts are inexpensive and just work not to mention you do not need a latch when you use then and the are not in the way at all. Why try and reinvent the wheel and make more work for nothing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Proeddie,
I will have work benches directly below the cabinets (the van is my mobile workshop)... I really need them to open up and out of the way... but thank you for the suggestion, I can see how in some applications having the doors act as a temporary shelf is brilliant.
Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Keeponvaning,
It's not so much that I dislike gas shocks, but was trying to avoid the extra hassle of installing them. I'm really not good at figuring this stuff out. When I was briefly taking a look at them, there were a ton choices, lengths, etc... I also so a video of a guy trying to install them in a Transit... and he was having a horrible time trying to install them. I got a little overwhelmed with the idea... and started to think that maybe there was just a locking hinge available.

I will definitely consider them again... can you share how you go about figuring out which ones will work? By the way, your cabinets are absolutely beautiful... fantastic work!!
Tom
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,330 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,197 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
I had also hoped to avoid the gas strut, but the hinges could just not hold my door.

Hinges:

Struts:

View attachment 64276
Would you share how you constructed you upper cabinets, Size please and how you affixed them.We are just starting our conversion. Your cabinets are beautiful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Caterwaller,

I used 1/2" baltic birch. I tried to keep them simple, and I will try to describe... I used cardboard to produce a template for the side pieces. These had to match the slight curve of the ceiling and the curve of the upper back wall. I already had 5mm plywood covered with grey carpet on the upper walls, and left this as my cabinet "back". My ceiling has 1" of wood attached to the metal ceiling cross ribs with rivnuts, so the upper piece of my cabinet (about 4" wide, full length) was attached to the ceiling braces with several wood screws. The bottom of the cabinet is about 12" wide, with a 1.25" wide piece on the front edge for stiffness. There is also about a 1" piece under the back of the bottom against the wall. This was attached to the metal structure with 3 1/4-20 rivnuts and bolts. This particular cabinet also has a few screws in the sides that attached adjacent cabinets. The length of the cabinet is about 46", and my other two uppers on the other side will be about 42" each. I opted for one door, attached with 3 hinges and the gas strut. The door is 1/2" shorter in length than the cabinet (1/4" overlap on the sides) and the door and cabinet heights are about 12.5". Two extra cabinet latches help keep it secure, and my pull is simply a 1.5" hole. This also allows some ventilation, and reduces cost, weight, and complexity. I will take and put a few more pics below. The last 2 photos are of the next upper cabinet still in my garage, but do give a better idea of the design. The biggest trick was keeping the bottom and front edges square to the world (floor mostly), since the ceiling and back wall curve. The cardboard template for the sides was invaluable.

64306

46" wide x 13" tall upper cabinet, door closed

64307

Same view, door open. 3 hinges can't be seen well, gas strut on right, 2 cabinet roller latches on shelf

64308

Better view of hinges, gray carpet is on 5mm plywood mounted to van wall, no other cabinet back

64309

Another upper for passenger side, primed not painted, front view, stop strip is 4 or 5" wide

64310

Back view of same cabinet, strip on top of back of shelf is to bolt to metal van structure with rivnuts, slight change from driver side upper which allows a slightly taller interior for the cabinet, more like 14" on this side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
This is great! Thanks. I really appreciate all your info. I am a cabinet maker, however the interior of the van is a whole new ball game for me. All the curves and no place flat or straight had me scratching my head. Thanks again, much appricated. "Kiss" "Keep it simple stupid"" I guess I was over thinking. Happy trails!
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top