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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
My rear swing doors no longer lock or unlock with the either the remote or the hardwired buttons on the van. No clicks or sounds at all. The key works fine manually. I am not sure it is a solenoid issue? A power issue? or the third thing I am pondering is if the sensor or switch that tells the system the door is shut is the culprit? Anyone have an advice where to start testing things? 2014 model. Thanks.
 

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You may want to check for damage to the wiring harness that extends out to the rear doors. They have been a problem for a few of us. Especially in colder climates. When my wire harness folded over due to the damaged retractor, the fuses blew for the power locks and the rear defrost. The dealer installed new harnesses under warranty a couple months ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Good answer KOV, thanks for that. Because my BU camera was operating properly I was able to eliminate that area and go back to the wire harness as Pete suggested a second time and find the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You may want to check for damage to the wiring harness that extends out to the rear doors. They have been a problem for a few of us. Especially in colder climates. When my wire harness folded over due to the damaged retractor, the fuses blew for the power locks and the rear defrost. The dealer installed new harnesses under warranty a couple months ago.
Pete, you nailed it. I had the fold over issue too but when I first checked it out everything appeared fine. Thanks to your post (and the help of KOV in eliminating the camera/door shut switch from my troubleshooting logic) I revisited the area with more vigor and found the issue. here is the deal- The wires had indeed been cut in half. The plastic tube had cracked but the wires were intact at that point. When one opens the door, the broken section of wire is now pulled deeper into the tube where you can not see it. When you peel the tape off the wires at the point the plastic tube is cracked it all looks good. Another thing that fooled me was the tape which wraps the wires was not cut so unless one peels that back the problem is not apparent. Anyhow, encouraged by your suggestion I dug deeper and had it fixed in minutes. There is enough extra wire in the door to do whatever you need to do to reconnect. A nice tight wrap of electrical tape to reinforce the area will likely last a year or more. I am good to go. Thanks.
 

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Mine is at the dealership for this same issue,
couldn't open the back doors from inside or outside using power lock or key.
Seems a lot of us are running into this issue, poor design and cheap plastic components.
Has a warranty notice been issued by Chrysler Fiat?
 

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Pete, you nailed it. I had the fold over issue too but when I first checked it out everything appeared fine. Thanks to your post (and the help of KOV in eliminating the camera/door shut switch from my troubleshooting logic) I revisited the area with more vigor and found the issue. here is the deal- The wires had indeed been cut in half. The plastic tube had cracked but the wires were intact at that point. When one opens the door, the broken section of wire is now pulled deeper into the tube where you can not see it. When you peel the tape off the wires at the point the plastic tube is cracked it all looks good. Another thing that fooled me was the tape which wraps the wires was not cut so unless one peels that back the problem is not apparent. Anyhow, encouraged by your suggestion I dug deeper and had it fixed in minutes. There is enough extra wire in the door to do whatever you need to do to reconnect. A nice tight wrap of electrical tape to reinforce the area will likely last a year or more. I am good to go. Thanks.
WOW My defroster and power door lock on back passengerdoor stopped working> I just went out and followed what youse guys said and 8 and 1 half minutes later problem solved. THANK YOU
 

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You may want to check for damage to the wiring harness that extends out to the rear doors. They have been a problem for a few of us. Especially in colder climates. When my wire harness folded over due to the damaged retractor, the fuses blew for the power locks and the rear defrost. The dealer installed new harnesses under warranty a couple months ago.
Same thing on my 2014.... takes a few years for the wire to break. Mine was on passenger side rear door - I use that about 5 times more than the driver side. I think I use that door almost as much as the front driver door!

The only wire that broke on mine was the ground wire. Squeaked it in under warranty.
 

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More details on the wiring harness issue, please?

You may want to check for damage to the wiring harness that extends out to the rear doors. They have been a problem for a few of us. Especially in colder climates. When my wire harness folded over due to the damaged retractor, the fuses blew for the power locks and the rear defrost. The dealer installed new harnesses under warranty a couple months ago.
Can you (or anyone) provide more details on what I need to look for/at for this issue? Perhaps provide some photos, or at least more explanation on where I find that wiring harness and what I'm looking for. I have the same no opening issue others have reported, also on a 2014 Promaster. I did read the other replies but am still not sure what to look for and do with some wires.
 

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Open passenger rear door. Look about a foot and a half up from the bottom. There will be a black tube attached to the door post that slides in and out of the door. The broken wires are in that tube (if that's the problem)

If you pop the plastic door panel off, you will see the wires coming out of the tube... The break is probably not visible, but somewhere inside the tube. When the dealer fixed mine, he replaced the whole harness.
 

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On my 2014 everything looked perfect, but when I took apart the 'thru hull fitting' that is attached to the truck with two phillips screws I found all the wires cut. I was shocked as there was no evidence of any damage before I took it apart. thanks to this thread I looked a bit further... thanks for posting everyone!
 

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