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Discussion Starter #1
Now that some folks on the forum have some time in cold or hot weather, what are your impressions of the HVAC? Can it heat/cool the entire van comfortably in temperatures down to 20 or up to 90 degrees? That's another of my concerns with PM as a personal vehicle.
 

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Also finding out how good it is at holding in the heat and cold is another thing to question, something i'd like to know. Looking forward to those responses.
 

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Owning a long & tall Sprinter van, I can tell you unless there's something lining the sides and roof, it'll be HOT in the summer & COLD in the winter......
Now with just a little covering on those parts, it makes a big difference, especially in the floor area
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Owning a long & tall Sprinter van, ...
I understand that Sprinter has a the deck stacked against it on the heat side though because modern diesels are too efficient and don't generate enough excess heat.

One of the Pentastar features I don't like from a reliability standpoint is the integral exhaust manifold. That would tend to dump lots of extra heat load into the cylinder heads and cooling system. I've heard some claim that motorhome manifolds can glow red hot just cruising down the highway.

However, the upside should be potentially higher heater output. I know I'll have to insulate it but hopefully someone at least has some impressions of how much heat comes out of the vents. On some cars it's barely warm when the outside temps drop below 20.
 

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Just to confirm what has been said, lining the interior can make an immense difference in temperature control, as well as reducing road noise, and protecting the vehicle.

At Legend Fleet, we offer a great solution to this. Our Complete Kits give you covering for your floor, wall, and ceiling, at a very affordable price.

If you are interested, give me a call to discuss.

1-866-223-2256 or visit www.legendfleet.com
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think I need to rephrase the question. How is the heat/AC output from the vents at the outside temperature extremes? For example, if I put the temp and blower to max when it is 70 degrees out and the air coming out of the vents is 120 degrees that might seem adequate on the surface. But if it's 10 degrees outside that would equate to 60 degree air coming out of the vents. That's not going to cut it no matter how well you insulate. If I still have 80 - 90 degree air coming out the vents, then there is a chance it would stay warm if I finished the interior. Same thing on the AC side. There will be a maximum temperature difference the system can achieve.
Perhaps if they would publish the BTU/Ton ratings of the system we could draw our own conclusion. I recall seeing some upfitter/converter specs here somewhere but I don't think HVAC capabilities were included.
 

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Well I can also say from experience with this same engine in a 2012 Jeep Wrangler with no roof insulation, it will burn you out if the temp stays above say 10 degrees. Below that and the fan needs to be kept on high medium speed with the temp control all the way up.
Cooling is where the system falls short. Above 85 degrees and it struggles to keep the temp down because of all the single layer floor covering, fiberglass top and glass, which is deep tinted.

I would imagine the PM has a larger capacity HVAC unit ??? Hopefully..
 

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As much as I would love to buy a custom made set of liners from Legend Fleet, the cost is just too high for me.

So I have been looking at alternatives. So far, I interested in acoustic foam to reduce sound and moderate temperature changes. Example: http://www.auralex.com/c_sound_absorption/c_sound_absorption.asp

Or as an alternative, radiant barriers and insulation http://www.bondedlogic.com/construction-products/ultratouch-radiant-barrier

Still in the investigation phase of this. Also. I have horses and rubber stall matts are thick and sturdy and don't stink. Why not these for a floor? http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/rubber-horse-stall-mat-4-ft-x-6-ft
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Guy on Sprinter forum posted this product for insulation:
http://www.lobucrod.com/faq.html
I like that fact it's closed cell foam. No fire rating posted but I'm not sure if that matters. Most of a standard auto interior is probably not fire rated anyway.

bobjay - Your comment helps. I was thinking the heat side might be OK because of the head design. Also, the Pentastar will be working much harder in the Promaster than any other vehicle making even more excess heat available.

Still a total crapshoot on the AC though. Depends what kind of capacity they designed in. It would be nice to know what Ram plans to do with the official window van. Will it get an enhanced HVAC? I see nothing on website about it.

Also thinking I might have the roof painted white since I'd most likely get the granite or blue to visually minimize the bumpers and side moldings. No one would see it anyway.
 

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@zwarte

I very much appreciate your compliment on our products, and i understand our products do not fit everyones budget.

However, with our CompleteKit packages (which include Rigid Flooring, Full Wall and Ceiling Liner, Protecta Sill Plates, and all the fastening hardware) for less than $2000 retail is VERY cost effective. I am willing to say that there is no competition out that will come close to that price.

As was mentioned, stall mats and other materials can be used for floors and walls, but when you take in the time and labor to cut and fit those types of products, the cost is still the same. I know that the average Cargo Van customer is an extremely busy, hard working builder, plumber, technician etc, and time is money. Spending a whole day cutting and fitting is tiresome and difficult. That is why we make it easy for you to save you time and hassle.

Please let me know if there is anything that i can do to help and i will do my best.

Regards

Kyle Carpani
Legend Fleet Solutions
 

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I think I need to rephrase the question. How is the heat/AC output from the vents at the outside temperature extremes? For example, if I put the temp and blower to max when it is 70 degrees out and the air coming out of the vents is 120 degrees that might seem adequate on the surface. But if it's 10 degrees outside that would equate to 60 degree air coming out of the vents. That's not going to cut it no matter how well you insulate. If I still have 80 - 90 degree air coming out the vents, then there is a chance it would stay warm if I finished the interior. Same thing on the AC side. There will be a maximum temperature difference the system can achieve.
Perhaps if they would publish the BTU/Ton ratings of the system we could draw our own conclusion. I recall seeing some upfitter/converter specs here somewhere but I don't think HVAC capabilities were included.
Can the PM not recirculate the inside air when in "heat" mode? Or does all air come from outside which would mean being heated from 10 degrees in your example.

If the van is insulated, and you can recirculate in heat mode as we normally do in air conditioning mode, then the air going back through heat exchanger should get warmer with each pass.

For what it's worth, even very efficient internal combustion engines reject over 50 percent of fuel heat content as waste heat. Some goes out as exhaust heat but lots and lots ends up in coolant. And at approximately 200 degrees F or thereabouts. The only practical limit on heating is the size of the heat exchangers the engineers decide to use. Heat supply from engine is usually abundant, even with diesels (except maybe at idle because it's burning very little fuel). At idle a Sprinter diesel may burn about 1/3 of gallon per hour.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Resurrecting this thread now that it's summer. I tried a new Dodge Caravan today thinking it might be an acceptable lower-cost alternative for handicap transport. The AC was really disappointing. It was only 82 degrees outside. I would have thought a vehicle designed to carry 8 warm bodies would be like a refrigerator with only one person. Even after 10 miles it was still not comfortable inside. Both of my 10 year old vehicles cool down faster and get colder. Neither has ever been recharged or serviced. Is Promaster AC that weak too? I wouldn't be surprised if it's the same compressor. Heat is very bad for my wife. Poor AC is definitely a deal breaker.
 

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I have a partition and I can see my dogs breath which makes me laugh!
My dog can't take the heat, so I crank it. Very cold.
Was the van sitting in the sun all day before the test drive?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
... Was the van sitting in the sun all day before the test drive?
It was half shaded by a tree when I picked it up. I took it home, parked it, and opened up all the doors while checking it out. It was not very hot inside when I drove it back. Didn't seem like it got down anywhere near 72 degrees. Tried adding the rear AC, and different fan speeds. Nothing really seemed to make a difference in the overall cooling. This was lower trim model - no automatic AC.
 

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Please try this product, I would love feedback on it ;)
My experience so far is that no matter how far you got to soundproof a vehicle, the weak links will still be there: the windows, the driver's cabin, the ventilation fan, if installed. So, I think hardcore solutions (like that Roxul mineral wool I installed and later removed ) are useless.
 

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Guy T -

I bought some of that bonded logic stuff just for a temporary partition behind the seats and it works so well that I have just left it in.

It is foil coated on one side and has 2 inches thick recycled cotton on the other. I bought 2 of these

http://www.homedepot.com/p/UltraTouch-48-in-x-75-in-Denim-Insulation-Hot-Water-Heater-Blanket-60301-48752/202710039

and used the enclosed foil tape to put them together. Then I cut a window in it and installed it using C clamps and spray glue. Helps with noise and thermoregulation immensely. I can take a picture if you wish.
 

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Guy T -

I bought some of that bonded logic stuff just for a temporary partition behind the seats and it works so well that I have just left it in.

It is foil coated on one side and has 2 inches thick recycled cotton on the other. I bought 2 of these

http://www.homedepot.com/p/UltraTouch-48-in-x-75-in-Denim-Insulation-Hot-Water-Heater-Blanket-60301-48752/202710039

and used the enclosed foil tape to put them together. Then I cut a window in it and installed it using C clamps and spray glue. Helps with noise and thermoregulation immensely. I can take a picture if you wish.
Please do!
 

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I bought some insulating ceramic stuff you mix in paint and I'm looking at spraying urethane foam. The urethane seems to be the most efficient and cost effective way to insulate and sound proof. My objective is for max insulation so I can run a small ac on batteries and solar without running a generator all the time.
 
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