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Discussion Starter #1
1. Must have some insulation
2. Must be durable
3. Can’t be more then 1.5” total thickness
4. No drilling into the floor

My plan initially was a bed rug for ease of installation and to help the dogs with a little traction. I ordered it this morning and then cancelled after second guessing myself and wanting more insulation.

I really want to use 1/2” polyiso, 1/2” plywood, and vinyl click lock planking. I can’t figure out what to do with the gaps between the floor ribs though and how to attach it all. After reading other comments here 1/2” isn’t thick enough foam board to not put something in the gaps. Especially near the doors. I’m considering minicell foam but I don’t see how that would help near the doors. Can I purchase plywood to trim into strips that is similar in height to the floor ribs that I can glue in? Any recommendations would be very helpful. I’ve been doing so muh reading I feel like my eyes are going to bleed.
 

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Don’t fill the ribs. Just DON’T No need many of us have’t. The foam will support 25# per sq inch so it will not crush into the spaces. Leave them open for a bit of drying ventilation and to have an air space to increase the R value with the polyiso aluminized surface. 1/2” ply or 3/4 inch hardwood ply over it. Let the ply float, cut your cabinets into the floor to keep them in place and butt the ply against the bulkhead to keep it in place. I added a 1” hardwood cleat along the door edge to make a full height rugged step for my 1/2” polyiso and 1/2” plywood. Cut a good sheet flooring like Marmoleum onto the floor that surrounds the cabinet bases and glue it down with a mastic they recommend. Pick a color and pattern you like because it will out last the van.
 

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MMXVI - L2H2 in IN
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Don't over think it, 1/2 poly, 1/2 plywood, use longer cargo bolts to hold it down and throw some cheap carpet on it.

I put a 4' x 4' box that weighted approx 2500 lbs on my 1/2 and 1/2 didn't seem to bother the floor any.
 

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1. Must have some insulation
2. Must be durable
3. Can’t be more then 1.5” total thickness
4. No drilling into the floor

My plan initially was a bed rug for ease of installation and to help the dogs with a little traction. I ordered it this morning and then cancelled after second guessing myself and wanting more insulation.

I really want to use 1/2” polyiso, 1/2” plywood, and vinyl click lock planking. I can’t figure out what to do with the gaps between the floor ribs though and how to attach it all. After reading other comments here 1/2” isn’t thick enough foam board to not put something in the gaps. Especially near the doors. I’m considering minicell foam but I don’t see how that would help near the doors. Can I purchase plywood to trim into strips that is similar in height to the floor ribs that I can glue in? Any recommendations would be very helpful. I’ve been doing so muh reading I feel like my eyes are going to bleed.
Here is how i did mine. Cut 1/4" thick panel from Lowes to match ribs space and use 3M adhesive to glue them down then 1/2 Poly and 3/4" Plywood since it will be for toy hauler and work
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here is how i did mine. Cut 1/4" thick panel from Lowes to match ribs space and use 3M adhesive to glue them down then 1/2 Poly and 3/4" Plywood since it will be for toy hauler and work
Do 1/4” strips level the ribs? If that works I might go that route just for piece of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Don’t fill the ribs. Just DON’T No need many of us have’t. The foam will support 25# per sq inch so it will not crush into the spaces. Leave them open for a bit of drying ventilation and to have an air space to increase the R value with the polyiso aluminized surface. 1/2” ply or 3/4 inch hardwood ply over it. Let the ply float, cut your cabinets into the floor to keep them in place and butt the ply against the bulkhead to keep it in place. I added a 1” hardwood cleat along the door edge to make a full height rugged step for my 1/2” polyiso and 1/2” plywood. Cut a good sheet flooring like Marmoleum onto the floor that surrounds the cabinet bases and glue it down with a mastic they recommend. Pick a color and pattern you like because it will out last the van.
Do you have any photos of your door edge?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do 1/4” strips level the ribs? If that works I might go that route just for piece of mind.
Edit: the ribs are not as thick as 1/4” so I feel like I’m just unnecessarily raising the floor and being 6’1 space is a little tight. I just cut a 2” strip and test fit it, it’s definitely taller.
 

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Don’t fill’em! Completely unnecessary work that could be use to do something that is going to get you ahead. That wood will not contribute to the insulating value and the weight as Phil said is not an issue. Curvesdragger did a beautiful thing but for what? Someday moisture is going to get under that floor and then the rib spaces will be a reward.

I don't have a picture of the edge but let me say it looks like a 1” solid floor at the edge. I have made a diagram of it’s cross section. The 1/2 inch poliso is 1/2” but the plywood is some crazy fraction like 15/32” so adjust your saw to that. It was made of oak or some such hardwood I had around. It needs to be as long as the door opening. Glue it to the plywood, screws or such if you feel inclined.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Don’t fill’em! Completely unnecessary work that could be use to do something that is going to get you ahead. That wood will not contribute to the insulating value and the weight as Phil said is not an issue. Curvesdragger did a beautiful thing but for what? Someday moisture is going to get under that floor and then the rib spaces will be a reward.

I don't have a picture of the edge but let me say it looks like a 1” solid floor at the edge. I have made a diagram of it’s cross section. The 1/2 inch poliso is 1/2” but the plywood is some crazy fraction like 15/32” so adjust your saw to that. It was made of oak or some such hardwood I had around. It needs to be as long as the door opening. Glue it to the plywood, screws or such if you feel inclined.
Excellent thank you!
 

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My floor is just thicker than 1 1/2". Probably 1 5/8" with the vinyl on top. Used 3/4" polyiso and 3/4" ply. My build shows how to use factory tiedowns so you don't have to drill any holes in your metal floor. Click the link in my sig and look at posts #5 and #11 . Use a different polyurethane than me. I'm gonna put my cabinets and stuff on top of my floor but RD's method works for him!

Your eyes are going to bleed a lot more before you finish this build, my friend!
 

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Listen to RD he knows what he is talking about! Much of what people do while converting their van is completely unnecessary and only adds to the weight and cost.

FDR was correct "The only thing you have to fear is fear itself"!
 

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Don’t fill’em! Completely unnecessary work that could be use to do something that is going to get you ahead. That wood will not contribute to the insulating value and the weight as Phil said is not an issue. Curvesdragger did a beautiful thing but for what? Someday moisture is going to get under that floor and then the rib spaces will be a reward.

I don't have a picture of the edge but let me say it looks like a 1” solid floor at the edge. I have made a diagram of it’s cross section. The 1/2 inch poliso is 1/2” but the plywood is some crazy fraction like 15/32” so adjust your saw to that. It was made of oak or some such hardwood I had around. It needs to be as long as the door opening. Glue it to the plywood, screws or such if you feel inclined.
I did use wood sealer on the back before i glue them down (to prevent moisture-hopefully). if you look at the picture again the 4 pieces they're kinda black
 

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I may be late with a floor suggestion but have you considered rubber mats? I used three 6' x 4' (have 12 foot cargo) available from Tractor Supply and they're 100 pounds each. It's excellent insulation, floor never gets cold. Plus, if I spill/dirty anything, can be removed and re-installed fairly easily although at 100 pounds each, it's not something you'd want to do on a regular basis.
http://www.tscstores.com/4-X-6-X-34-RUBBER-STALL-MAT-P14214.aspx
 

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I did use wood sealer on the back before i glue them down (to prevent moisture-hopefully). if you look at the picture again the 4 pieces they're kinda black
Don't get me wrong or take offense. What you did is thoughtful and nice looking and protecting against moisture (condensation mostly) is a good idea. My though is more on the line of- doing it, no matter how nice, is unnecessary.

As for Trecilla,
I kinda like those mats and under a horse stall or cow tie up they work great. Every time I put something that weights 100 lbs. behind me in a vehicle I ponder what it is going to do in the worst case. A head on (but survivable with all safety systems in place) crash generates over 20g so those mats are going to generate a ton or more of force forward EACH. Three of them 6,000 lbs. Do you have them hitched down? My floor is 1/2” of polyiso and 1/2” of plywood and will withstand that crash AND by cutting the cabinets into it they will too as they have additional fasteners. None of them weigh nearly 100 lbs either. KISS- least material, doing the most, meeting several functions= good design.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, made some good progress today but I have a few questions. I decided to go with leaving the ribs empty, 1/2" Polyiso, and then 3/4" plywood that I sealed with mildew resistant primer/sealant. Everything is cut and in place, I drilled holes and lined up the tie down cleats but used regular bolts for now. I used the factory rubber cargo mat as a template and it's left a 1/2" gap around the walls and front.

1.) What do I do to fill in the gap along the walls/wheel wells, and more importantly at the front of the van (behind the seats)? I'm not as worried about the gap at the walls because it'll most likely be covered with the platform bed, cabinets, etc. I plan on using transition strips at the sliding door openings and rear unless you guys have a better idea. Should I fill the gap in the front with great stuff and maybe the sides in the living space but leave the rear?

2.) I'm using 4mm Vinyl click lock planking that measures 6"x36". What's the easiest way to cut this stuff? The box says a utility knife but cutting a straight line is **** near impossible.

3.) For anyone who's done vinyl plank flooring did you start all the way against the wall or against the wheel wells? I attempted at starting against the wheel wells with the intention of filling in the gaps that have odd shapes at the end. I've found locking everything in without a wall to push up against is also **** near impossible. Recommendations?


Thanks again for the push to not over think it. 1/2" foam under the 3/4" ply without anything in the ribs seems fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the idea! I think I'm going to go with Great stuff just because I have a can of it in the garage. Google shows quite a few others have used it as well. I'm not super worried about moisture, pretty dry in colorado (especially this winter!).
 
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