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I'm insulating:

1. Anyone know if those grommets (for lack of a better term) holding the black plastic panels in the sliding and rear doors are reusable? And, either way, is there a proper/easy way to remove them?

2. I've read a lot of threads here about insulating; not much about insulating the cab -- doors, overhead, etc. Anyone have any luck there?

3. Mine came with the flooring (hard, dark-brown, maybe plastic). Anyone lift that and put polyiso in-between?
If so:
a) What did you do for the edges (i.e., near the rear and sliding doors), and
b) Does it seem to insulate well; what thickness?

CP
 

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I did not do much insulating of the cab as we have a divider curtain that keeps the heat in the back fairly well. I looked into the roof over the cab compartment when I had it down but it really needs something like thinsulate and I had none. I may do it in the future. I did do inside the slider and rear doors and the rest of the rear including inside the ribs mostly with 1” polyisocyanurate sheets and great stuff. I do have sunshades for all the windows including the cab. In reality the windows are a big factor in solar gain and heat loss. The floor of the cab is on sponge which has some insulating value too.
 

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3. Mine came with the flooring (hard, dark-brown, maybe plastic). Anyone lift that and put polyiso in-between?
If so:
a) What did you do for the edges (i.e., near the rear and sliding doors), and
b) Does it seem to insulate well; what thickness?

CP
Check out this thread.

http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60034&highlight=factory+floor

I used 3/4" Polyiso under the factory floor. Being 6'2" I didn't want to sacrifice too much height, if you have room you could go with 1" or more. I say go ahead and remove the floor, just have a helper to move the huge floor out and back in. Best part is the floor makes a perfect template for the polyiso. I haven't finished the edges yet, that will wait until the final floor covering is installed, perhaps I will use an aluminum bullnose.
 
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