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Glueing foambards to walls/ceiling

444 Views 9 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  SteveSS
Hi

Couple of questions re glueing Polyiso/XPS/EPS as insulation to the sheet metal:

1. Material: polyurethane foam spray (e.g. GS) is popular. question: would you recommend Sikaflex or Adhesive Spray (e.g 3M 90)? The problem with foam spray is that it expands and requires bracing. It's also a bit messy. This also leads to a second question
2. How to apply: condensation could be a problem witht this type of insulation. Did you leave gap between board and wall? cover all board with glue, or just a few touches?

Thanks
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Hi,
I think the best solution is to use the Great Stuff foam - it is a VERY good adhesive and as it expands a bit behind the Polyiso, it fills the space with foam that prevent water vapor from getting behind the Polyiso and condensing. You should also be a bead of foam around the full periphery of each Polyiso panel to prevent water vapor from getting behind the panel.

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle Automotive tire

This may be a little overkill, but you get the idea.

Wood Electrical wiring House Engineering Gas


You do have to use spring sticks to brace the panels in place until they cure, but this is pretty easy.

Most people find it worthwhile to get one of the Great Stuff Pro applicators and use the Great Stuff Pro foam cans - makes applying the foam a lot easier.

If a little water vapor gets through in limited areas its not the end of the world - insulations like Thinsulate allow very easy penetration of water vapor through the insulation and condensation on the van skin, and there are very very few reports of this causing a problem.

Gary
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Everything Gary said, with the minor quibble that the picture of the girl laying beads of foam on the back of the board isn't a little overkill ... it's massive overkill !

I originally tried just using 3M 90 spray cans, but on curves surfaces, the ceiling especially, I found that it wasn't quite enough, and I did Great Stuff around all the edges, and I think it's doing the lions share of the work holding the boards in place.
My polyiso panels have been on my ceiling and walls for 3 yrs now adhered with 3M 90. No bracing was necessary. I filled the edges around the panels with Great Stuff.
I tried 3M90 to stick the polyiso but when the sun hit the black roof the adhesive let go. I would use the great stuff if you are using foam board insulation. I ended up scrapping the polyiso in the ceiling and using Thinsulate because great stuff and I don't get along.
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My polyiso panels have been on my ceiling and walls for 3 yrs now adhered with 3M 90. No bracing was necessary. I filled the edges around the panels with Great Stuff.
Hi,

That might be a good solution if you don't want to mess with the spring sticks. The 3M has enough tack to hold the Polyiso to the metal (I asume?), and the Great Stuff bead around the edges will keep water vapor from getting behind the panels and the Great Stuff is such a good adhesive that the polyiso panels are not going to go anywhere whether the 3M holds up long term or not.

Gary
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Poly-Iso with 3M 90 - spray both surfaces and wait until a fingertip drag across the last sprayed surface does not 'grab' - while waiting use applicator gun on the insulation board to lay in a 'gasket' ring of door & window foam, between dime & nickel sized thick - then smoosh into place...

Now the fun part: keep massaging panel, pressing hard, keep doing it until it goes silent - where the 3M 90 grabs but 'pops' free (noisy) gets pressed again until the snap crackle & pop vanishes... So the 3M 90 then holds while foam cures.

When I had to cut out a 16x16 block for ceiling vent fan removing the 1" Poly-Iso was like chipping out plaster or stucco.

I used pencil thin bead to close off the boards face-paper to metal, save filling in alongside ribs until next layer goes up - lose an easy way to run wiring by overplaying the foam gun foam, put it down, seek Adult supervision : )
I agree with @GaryBIS. That's how I did it. I also used GS Doors & Windows to ensure foam expansion didn't deform the sheetmetal.
You can score (cut about half the thickness of the boards on the side that needs to curve in to make it easier to form to the vans walls. They have Great Stuff in low expansion (for home window, door use). Highly recommend using the pro gun (don't forget the cleaning can). The foam that sticks out can easily be cut level with a regular electric knife.
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