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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I need some help. We finally had the mishap of breaking off our fuel filler door on my 14 Promaster full size 1500 by snagging it on my pant leg hammer loop and folding it forward too far. We did not damage the colored door, only the housing. Four screws and it's out easy. According to the Mopar Parts lookups, I need a 68199800AA, which then crosses to a 68199800AB, both of which are discontinued. So the next cross was supposed to be a 68199800AC, which I ordered. After driving the hinge pin out of the door and the broken hinge parts from the broken housing, we slipped the hnge pin in (much easier than removing it BTW) and found that the male latch in the door is nearly 1/2" off (mis aligned on height) to the female catch inside the housing. Obviously, MOPAR changed something and didn't note that the AA or AB suffix part are NOT interchangeable to the AC suffix. Anyone else run into this? If so, what was the solution? With all the articles about the lousy cheesy way they made this, I'm surprised that no one else has posted about this, but the search didn't seem to find anything in the forum, hence my post. Any info would be appreciated. ALSO, I'm likely going to have a 68199800AC for sale at a good price to recoup some of the $ too. TIA!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ok, so since no one has replied to this, I assume that no one else has dealt with it, so here's what I've found out. When you fold the door "forward" by accident, you break the piano hinge. It would seem that you will usually break the hinge leaves off of the "box" behind the door, not the door itself. So, IF you have the older van, with the discontinued number "box" behind the door, you'll need to upgrade to the newer box. HOWEVER, what they don't tell you, is that you ALSO will need a new door, because they changed it. The hinge leaves, slightly, to probably make them stronger, a waste of plastic, it won't help, but they ALSO changed the latch location in the box and it's style. So the old OEM door won't work either. The two parts, box and door, do not come with the piano HINGE PIN either, so you may want to order that as well, because while I used my old one, I believe that the new one may be about 1/4" to 1/2" longer than the OE style, to fully hook up into that really useless extra hinge leaf. If you catch the new door with your clothes, the gas hose, or your bod while you're filling up, that extra lil' leaf ain't gonna help. So, there's what I found out, hope it helps someone else. BTW, I'll be keeping my extra 68199800AC for future opps's.
 

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Thanks for posting. Hopefully, I'll never need this information, but as we all know the fuel door is pretty lame.

I was in for the recall work on the transmission linkage and saw my salesman. He was gushing about a recent meeting with all the engineers etc telling them about all the changes they were working on for the Promaster. I asked him if those engineers ever talked with actual customers, because they are the ones that will tell them what they really need to be working on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for sharing. Hammer loop warning duly noted. Just wondering, did you try junk yards?
No, actually I didn't. THought about it, but figured, well, if it's banged up, I may be no better off if some of the hinge tabs are already cracked. So I just went "new part".....and yes, they're a bit pricey.
 
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