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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you have a moment please list the layers of insulation and the types listed
from outside to inside.
We are studying all the options before taking the plunge however we've already ordered
a pre-fab insulation where the salesman promises the pre-glued insulation panels will
'stick' at any temperature.
Thanks!
 

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Dyno mat type product(Noico), Polysi foam from Lowes and finished with T&G paneling on the walls and ceiling. Bed rug mat on the floor. Seems good for PNW climate and road noise drastically reduced.
 

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Ah... insulation commentary. Its as good as a "helmet thread" on my cycling forums...

But, I'm game...

First layer, but not full coverage, was butyl rubber sound damping material with an aluminum skin. On top of that is SM 600 Thinsulate, glued in place with 3M 90 adhesive spray. Then there's an air gap to my wall panels of 1/8" coroplast, with a layer of Reflectix glued to the backside.

Well, that's what it'll be when done; Thinsulate is in, but don't have much of the paneling done yet.
 

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Ah... insulation commentary. It's as good as a "what oil do you use?" thread on any car or bike forum I'm on...

presently mine is outside air / sheet metal / inside air

this weekend I will be testing the adhesion of gorilla glue and great stuff to the sound control insulating paint type goo that will weigh less than the Noico 50 mil in hopes that the said glues will adhere the polyiso and thinsulate I plan to add later.

With that said, I'm just posting on the thread so I can find it later.... Prost!

Now, everyone go to their respective corners and come out fighting!>:D
 

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It’s like what is the best van..... oh I guess here it has been decided!
Walls, outside Air, Sheet steel, Foil, 1” polyisocyanurate, foil, held in place with great stuff (including polyiso inside the doors and ribs- tough to do) air space (lets the foil on the polyiso do its work) 1/8 inch ABS factory panel, inside air. Ceiling begins the same Air, sheet steel, foil, 1” polyiso, foil, foam backed headliner material, air. Floor is air, ribbed steel foil, 1/2” polyiso loose fit, foil, 1/2 inch hardwood plywood, carpet stapled just enough to keep it still, air. No other sound abatement, no insulation in cab. Yes it is very quiet. BTW I include each surface transition as they all contribute to the sound and heat insulation.
 

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Ah... insulation commentary. Its as good as a "dust collection" thread on my woodworking forums...

Dynamat, Low-E (wish I hadn't), Thinsulate, Painted Luan

Works well. I'm especially pleased with the two layers of Thinsulate in the "attic."
 

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Forgot to mention my flooring insulation system.

One layer of 1/4" minicell foam between floor ribs, one layer on top of it all, 1/2" plywood, 1" polyiso rigid foam, 1/8" ABS plastic sheet, 3/8" heavy rubber mat. All that in a grid of 80/20 aluminum frame secured to the plywood.
 

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That eBay seller is Hein, a member here and on other similar forums. Search for him here and you may have the option of dealing directly. Really, really nice guy. His CNC-cut ABS items are top quality. I used his solar panel bracket feet, others have used the corrugated fan mount.

Once the Thinsulate is in, there's nothing to compress it. Pretty much a different animal from sewing, sticks well with 3M90. Don't use 3M77, which is a temporary bond.

I made a "van quilt" with Climashield, which I like better than Primaloft because it doesn't require tacking. Probably wouldn't pack down as tight as Primaloft, but that is irrelevant here.

Glad to meet another backpacker. Make sure you design in a dedicated space for the packs. They can be unwieldy.
 

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100 sq ft of butyl rubber and foil sound mat insulation. Covered that in foil backed 1" foam and used spray foam to hold the pieces to the truck. Then furring strips and wood paneling. Used some mats of pink fiberglass insulation inside the doors. Floor is covered in heavy carpet padding and commercial carpet.

Huge decrease in road noise and temperature in the van stays much steadier for better comfort. Not an expensive route, but very good results IMO.
 
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Is glue enough to hold the floor down? I can imagine a good washboard road or RR crossing shaking the whole loose and resulting in a permanent rattle and squeak.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Ah... insulation commentary. Its as good as a back gouged "root opening" for a complete joint penetration grove in a welding forum
 
Have not done it yet but after much reading my plans so far,
butyl rubber sound damping material with an aluminum skin at about 25% per panel
Polyisocyanurate Rigid Foam glued on between ribs
Thinsulate or denim insulation threaded through the ribs and around the Rigid Foam
Reflectix over all with plastic or wood paneling holding it together
Please yell if you think this is a sick injustice to my Promaster
 

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Don't do the denim, it collects and holds moisture which forms from condensation. Thinsnsulate good, denim bad, even the non-itchy fiberglass would be better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thinsulate is a done deal.

The she-boss was just pricing it and getting ready to order.
So for us outside--->in
air---van metal---pink foam board---thinsulate--paneling This one the walls.
From the top-
air van metal celing---Dynaliner--pink foam boad--thinsulate--paneling.

The pink foam board is this:
http://promasteraccessories.com/insulation.php
The paneling from Legen Fleet simply because it is
the 'whitest' looking one.

Our build will be very Euro-industrial looking!
 

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The she-boss was just pricing it and getting ready to order.
So for us outside--->in
air---van metal---pink foam board---thinsulate--paneling This one the walls.
From the top-
air van metal celing---Dynaliner--pink foam boad--thinsulate--paneling.

The pink foam board is this:
http://promasteraccessories.com/insulation.php
The paneling from Legen Fleet simply because it is
the 'whitest' looking one.

Our build will be very Euro-industrial looking!
Hi,
I would not use the XPS or EPS white, pink or blue foam next to the van skin. They have a max service temperature of 160F. On a hot day in the sun, I think the van skin will go over this temp.

I've managed to make several thermal sculpture out of XPS: http://www.builditsolar.com/Experimental/pinkfoam.htm
It does not really take that high a temperature.

Polyiso has a max service temp of 270F and is fine -- would also give you more insulation value per inch.

Also wonder why you would want to stack Thinsulate with foam insulation? Some advantage to this over using just one or the other?


Gary
 

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I don’t know where you might park that van but the interior, not just the skin, can reach 160 in most latitudes in the summer, if unprotected with no window shades. It might be just an occasional or inadvertent occurrence but it is likely to happen. My flat plate solar hot water heater panel is rated to max out (stagnate) at 165º but in February in full sun it will boil water if the circulator stops! DAMHIK. GaryBIS knows what he is talking about. Polyisocyanurate is easy to get at Lowes or HD and easy to cut and much cheaper than that kit. Why chance it? It and thinsulate from Hein are a better choice.
 

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Medicineman,

You might look hard at that insulation kit. I checked it out a few months ago and corresponded with Promaster Accessories about it. I advised them that the stated insulation value, i.e., 3/8" thick with R-38 performance, was essentially impossible, so there must be a typo or misprint somewhere. In their defense, they are a reseller, not the manufacturer. All I got from them was "All of the insulation technical data we have from the supplier is listed on the website".

Pete
 
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