Ram Promaster Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How did you attach the plywood to the stringer to keep it from bouncing around? I was thinking gorilla glue epoxy possibly? Initally I thought of using a pipe strap but my platform is only 1/2” thick. I think the glue method will also look cleaner?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
My thoughts are epoxy is pretty much permanent where as a couple of straps and screws per sheet would be plenty. The only force on the screws is to anchor the straps. Later access may be an advantage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for confirming my suspensions. I think I’ll see how the straps work. Painting the steel tomorrow. I probably won’t attach them until the weekend after I get the boxes built.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
756 Posts
How about a couple or three notched wooden beams to trap the steel box beams up against the plywood from below? I'd just NOT drill into the steel at all if it can be avoided...

I like the idea you used, with the seven cross-rails they could* be modded on the fly to 3 or 4 rails for a skinny cot, even xfr the box beams into a bunk bed or shelf layout, etc..
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,809 Posts
Most of the suggestions don’t secure those steel stringers nor the plywood of the bed. I advocate for attaching this stuff since a piece of plywood or even a length of that steel will come forward to greet you in a survivable crash. I’d screw the ends of the steel into the 2X10 with 3” screws I could easily remove if I wanted the bed out later and the plywood itself I would use self taping screws through it into the stringer tops. BTW that will not weaken the stingers as it is in the compression side of the box beam they represent. All this could be removed in a few minutes with a good impact screwdriver when it must be. No I don’t plan to be in a crash either but you never know.
 

·
Registered
2014 136” HR
Joined
·
5,520 Posts
I think Zoomyn's got the right idea, plus screws down through the ply into those end supports. My suggestion was such a terribly poor second, forget it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I initially planned on at least screwing the ply down to the 2x10’s but it’s notched at the C pillar so no way it’s coming forward as long as something is attaching it in the middle or there’s weight on top, right now it’s a very tight perfect fit. I think I will do it anyways and research screwing into the steal more, possibly with a thin rubber washer in between. I can’t see ever removing the bed but it would be nice I guess. Otherwise I’m going to use the pipe holder clamps. Hopefully I’m getting the wheel well storage done saturday (hinging the platform ply for access) so then I can get this done.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,176 Posts
I could never see removing my side to side double bed but 3 years later I did just that and built bunk beds. NEVER say never ;)

From this


To this
 

·
Registered
2014 136” HR
Joined
·
5,520 Posts
Although I have never changed my setup, I've removed the bed board several times for various reasons. IMHO, one should in general minimize permanent attachments.

For example, although we never like to contemplate the possibility, our vans are always vulnerable to collision damage. Even if the van itself were totaled, much of the added conversion materials could be salvageable if not permanently attached.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
183 Posts
For my bed platform I have used;

  • T bars secured to the van walls
  • 4 garage door top supports
  • Plywood top that by-folds and stows against the passenger side of the van
  • Hold-downs include small eyebolts holding down the garage door supports and bolts securing the plywood to the garage door supports
As you can see it does not take much to secure the bed platform.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
756 Posts
Ty-wraps to bind notched keepers to the bed board... with some small thickness foam to soak up rattles and squeaks... speaking of 120, 150, 200lb strength cable ties (Example).

NOTE: Beware snipping tails of nylon straps with wire cutters etc. as it leaves a 'pinched' sharp as a scalpel fin lurking just waiting for scalps, back of hands blah blah; a slow & square chop with utility razor as close to lock knuckle as possible safes that hazard. I mention this as I look at the lacey henna-ish or tribal scarification designs all over my arms as my Florida tan fades being back in MN, a hazard of working crowded industrial control packages with 100's of cable ties used willy-nilly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Ty-wraps to bind notched keepers to the bed board... with some small thickness foam to soak up rattles and squeaks... speaking of 120, 150, 200lb strength cable ties (Example).

NOTE: Beware snipping tails of nylon straps with wire cutters etc. as it leaves a 'pinched' sharp as a scalpel fin lurking just waiting for scalps, back of hands blah blah; a slow & square chop with utility razor as close to lock knuckle as possible safes that hazard. I mention this as I look at the lacey henna-ish or tribal scarification designs all over my arms as my Florida tan fades being back in MN, a hazard of working crowded industrial control packages with 100's of cable ties used willy-nilly.
I think this is the plan along with some 1/16" thick Neoprene rubber strips. I think 120lb zip ties will work fine and hold it nice and tight yet still easily removable. Thank you guys!
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top