[rydawell]

Hi there. We just bought a new promaster to convert and are super excited to get started.

I have a question about flooring. I am going to use 3/4" plywood subfloor screwed to the floor in a few spots and 3/4" solid oak. My question is if I can get away with this as is or if I need some sort of insulation?

Thanks!
Ryan

 

[keeponvaning]

You can but why put screw holes in your floor? A lot better way is to put the ¾" plywood down with a silicone or rubber type adhesive as Ram does, ½" is more than enough, especially with oak over it.

 

[jostalli]

You are doing 3/4" plywood with 3/4" solid oak over the top of that? The factory Ram floor is 1/2". I disagree about glueing or using silicone or other sealant as my factory floor is coming up in several places. I'll take a step and hear the adhesive stick then pull apart. Annoying. From what I have seen on numerous builds on Sprinter Source the most common floor method is dense 1/4" closed cell foam cut to fill the voids with 1/4" layer on top. Then since you don't have factory floor I would do 1/2" plywood. Use the factory holes to keep the floor in place.


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[MsNomer]

Rather profane, I know, but these Sprinter tie-downs are the cat's meow. Found them on eBay. Fantastic for holding the floor in place.

 

[Dwight]

I would not recommend drilling holes in floor. You'd be asking for rust problems.

I have 14,000 miles on my self installed floor of 3/4" hardwood plywood with 2 layers of underlayment under it.

It has never made a sound or shifted. Very quiet, and never once squeaked.

My flooring thread is here http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35225

 

[keeponvaning]

I have no squeaks on my factory floor but there are many ways to do it without screwing it down, for sure. Another good way is to use the hold down holes already in the floor to hold the plywood down. It doesn't take much (if anything) as others have mentioned.

 

[rydawell]

Thanks everyone. You're right! why put holes in the floor?!? I think I'll try the hold downs and adhesive.

 

[Rivermom]

If we are trying to attach plywood flooring, can you reach the D-ring holes from below to drill up?

 

[MsNomer]

No, at least for the ones near the slider. Haven’t checked the others, but I’d guess probably not.

 

[Somebodyelse]

Trade secret: Lipstick is a good way to layout hard to match holes. It transfers to wood well and cleans off metal easy.

Bonus tip: Buy a cheap stick. Don't use the wife's or a girl's that you either enjoy the company of. They will not appreciate it and you will not enjoy their company for awhile. Don't ask how I know. You also probably don't want to use your own unless you don't like that one.

 

[GaryBIS]

I'd strongly consider adding insulation to the floor stackup -- 1 inch polyiso or 1 inch XPS is good.

3/4 inch plywood PLUS 3/4 inch oak seems like a lot of thickness (headroom) and weight -- most people use half inch plywood with something like Vinyl -- I used 1/4 inch plywood plus Vinyl and its been fine.
This is mine: Our ProMaster Camper Van Conversion – Flooring – Build A Green RV

This is a test on what floor insulation is worth on heat loss: Is it Worth Insulating the Floor of Your Camper Van? – Build A Green RV

It works out that not insulating the floor on an otherwise insulated van increases heat loss by 40%.

Gary

 

[MsNomer]

This is an ancient thread. Why didn’t we caution OP about wood movement in 3/4” oak?

 

[Somebodyelse]

Only a little over half a decade late for advice to the OP

 

[GaryBIS]

Better late than never?

 

[Somebodyelse]

For those following in footsteps