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Hey everyone! Need some hard truth. Got a 2014 159" WB that I'm finally starting to work on. I took some measures to clean and inspect the floor for any major rust spots before installing the subfloor as recommended (found a quarter-sized spot of rust, sanded it down to bare metal, and sprayed it with Rustoleum Stops Rust Gloss Protective Enamel). I also went ahead and sprayed the remainder of the floor with a coat for good measure.
Apologies in advance, I think I've now gone down a spiral of rust prevention-induced fear where I imagine the bottom of my van corroding and dropping out from under me after the 1st year of traveling haha, but maybe you can ease my worries. My questions are as follows:
1) Is Rustoleum Stops Rust Gloss Protective Enamel spray effective enough to paint the floor as a way to avoid rust?
2) If I desire to use the front and rear d-ring tie down points (middle ones are not accessible through the bottom) as a way to keep my subfloor from bouncing or rattling, what kind of extended length machine screws should I use? Is the floor and body of the Promaster truly galvanized as many have claimed, and if so, should I use Zinc plated screws instead of Stainless to avoid dissimilar metal galvanic corrosion? Should I treat these screws with any sort of spray, caulk, or rubberized undercoating?
3) Bonus question: If the van is indeed galvanized steel, would the eventual roof screws for solar panels, fans, etc, need to be zinc plated as opposed to stainless as well?
Thanks so much everyone, I don't imagine I will be living full time in this van for more than a few years, but I wouldn't want to undo everything down the road just to correct an avoidable mistake. I appreciate it!
Apologies in advance, I think I've now gone down a spiral of rust prevention-induced fear where I imagine the bottom of my van corroding and dropping out from under me after the 1st year of traveling haha, but maybe you can ease my worries. My questions are as follows:
1) Is Rustoleum Stops Rust Gloss Protective Enamel spray effective enough to paint the floor as a way to avoid rust?
2) If I desire to use the front and rear d-ring tie down points (middle ones are not accessible through the bottom) as a way to keep my subfloor from bouncing or rattling, what kind of extended length machine screws should I use? Is the floor and body of the Promaster truly galvanized as many have claimed, and if so, should I use Zinc plated screws instead of Stainless to avoid dissimilar metal galvanic corrosion? Should I treat these screws with any sort of spray, caulk, or rubberized undercoating?
3) Bonus question: If the van is indeed galvanized steel, would the eventual roof screws for solar panels, fans, etc, need to be zinc plated as opposed to stainless as well?
Thanks so much everyone, I don't imagine I will be living full time in this van for more than a few years, but I wouldn't want to undo everything down the road just to correct an avoidable mistake. I appreciate it!