[chrischarles]

Hey everyone! Need some hard truth. Got a 2014 159" WB that I'm finally starting to work on. I took some measures to clean and inspect the floor for any major rust spots before installing the subfloor as recommended (found a quarter-sized spot of rust, sanded it down to bare metal, and sprayed it with Rustoleum Stops Rust Gloss Protective Enamel). I also went ahead and sprayed the remainder of the floor with a coat for good measure.

Apologies in advance, I think I've now gone down a spiral of rust prevention-induced fear where I imagine the bottom of my van corroding and dropping out from under me after the 1st year of traveling haha, but maybe you can ease my worries. My questions are as follows:

1) Is Rustoleum Stops Rust Gloss Protective Enamel spray effective enough to paint the floor as a way to avoid rust?

2) If I desire to use the front and rear d-ring tie down points (middle ones are not accessible through the bottom) as a way to keep my subfloor from bouncing or rattling, what kind of extended length machine screws should I use? Is the floor and body of the Promaster truly galvanized as many have claimed, and if so, should I use Zinc plated screws instead of Stainless to avoid dissimilar metal galvanic corrosion? Should I treat these screws with any sort of spray, caulk, or rubberized undercoating?

3) Bonus question: If the van is indeed galvanized steel, would the eventual roof screws for solar panels, fans, etc, need to be zinc plated as opposed to stainless as well?

Thanks so much everyone, I don't imagine I will be living full time in this van for more than a few years, but I wouldn't want to undo everything down the road just to correct an avoidable mistake. I appreciate it!

 

[Somebodyelse]

The stop rust paints generally have a converter to kill any remaining rust so it doesn't grow further. As long as the metal is coated in something new rust won't grow. Better paints last longer and stick harder. Rust-Oleum is a good name and it had a lot of descriptors so you should be set. Painting over the paint that wasn't missing was overkill, but probably looks great til you cover it up 😉 I'd just hit any bare metal next time.

I'd avoid stainless fasteners for cost reasons and because it's far easier to replace a rusted fastener than a rusted frame. The marine environment is different when everything is stainless, aluminum, or nonmetal, and constantly wet. While moisture is a concern in the van, it's not a standing water concern. If something is going to rust, I'd prefer it be the easiest to replace piece. Same deal with the bonus question. I'd rather replace a 5-10 cent screw than have rust form on the chassis.

Most likely you won't find anything rusting out either way. At least I haven't heard anything much about it. I found on spot in the cargo area with light surface rust (a whole lotta scratched paint, but just a tiny rust spot) when I bought mine. My footwells in the front door though both seem to collect water. Long lines of rust. Nasty salty snowmelt I assume. So maybe not as much a deal in your climate. I'd look here next though if you haven't. I'll be pulling the footwell trim every spring to check. Unless you have standing water somewhere you're probably fine. Just clean up well and be care if you're in and out a lot in rain/snow


TL; DR paint good, rust bad. Rusty zinc screw better than rusty van and shiny stainless screw. Also way cheaper. Check footwells next. Mine get wet under trim.