[medicineman4040]

Our current plan, but can change depending on what you all say is from under the van going upward-
air-->metal-->Dynaliner-->Bed-rug--->closed cell foam 1/2 inch-->Fleet solutions KKS floor.

Would you glue any of these layers to each other (of course the Dynaliner sticks to the metal)?
We used to know a product we called Dupont Blue board which I think resisted compression, something like 20psi.Closed cell foam panels is cheap for the square footage we're looking at inside the van but will it squeek when the wood KKS floor is placed on top?

Any other thoughts on our floor insulation we'd appreciate it. No hurry really. Windows to be shipped from Motion 1/23 so it will be second week of February that we need a solid decision on the floor treatment.

 

[RDinNHandAZ]

You can to skip the closed cell foam. I did use the closed cell foam with aluminum on both sides which is better because most foams even those that seem to be closed cell absorb water. Polyisocyanurate doesn't so if you want 1/2 inch of insulation use that.

 

[KilWerBzz]

Here's how I did mine. A .5 inch of this Green foam boardIMG_20170106_075539.jpg, available at some Lowes not all, on the floor, 3/8 inch ply on top and cheap in/out carpet for cover, works for me. Some pepole have horror stories some don't.
I included two links one for xps and one for polyiso. The spec's are very close for .5 inch
https://www.trustgreenguard.com/insulation-board/xps-type-iv-25-psi-board/
https://www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/building-insulation/Files/BI%20Data%20Sheets/Resi%20and%20Commercial/BID-0151_AP_FoilFaced_DS.pdf

 

[Zoomyn]

For initial flooring - using what we had on hand... (build post/pictures here)

We did strips of 5mm foil-foam-foil ‘Prodex’ insulation to fill the valleys of the corrugated floor mainly to keep air circulation down but it also adds R-0.7 insulation value. Then we laid down a sheet of 0.060” EPDM roofing membrane pilfered from a roofers’ truck a few years back: using 3m spray adhesive I bonded panels of rubber to the plywood flooring to sandwich the rubber between steel floor and wood. This muffled sound even better than I though it would though not so much in cold weather, the rubber might as well be plywood when it gets much below freezing..

Exit $60 a sheet for three sheets of ½” MDO sign-makers plywood and another $50 for Insl-x Stix bonding paint, cut flooring to fit and two coats of paint on every surface. Has already survived forklifts & pallets a dozen times, more than can be said for the plastic door roller plate on the drivers side back door with a rivnut torn out of the sheetmetal.

So. I've got a work floor in. For the last road trip I laid out one 4x8 sheet of 2" EPS to nest on top of, the other areas of floor had throw carpets down, we quickly discovered is it is rough sleeping on the floor since any & all cold air pools there. I'm thinking I'll add ONLY TO THE AISLES 1/2" ISO foam above the plywood topped with a 1/4" sheet of plywood then put in indoor/outdoor carpet, doing only the aisles means having the built-ins better (easily?) keyed into the cargo floor... ...then if possible add 1" or greater foam in the footprint of cabinets & built-ins after they are installed.

 

[victorul]

Floor Buil-up

Hi, I started with sound deadener first.
80 mil Noico on wheel wells and ceiling, 50 mil Noico on walls and floor.
Self sticking if worked at the right temperatures. Very good material to work with!
Then 1" POLYISO on floor, recessed parts of the walls and on ceiling. Glued it on
with SIKA Ultimate from Home Depot (not every store stocks it).
Had planned to use Reflectix over the cross members. Terrible material to work
with and found no proper adhesive that works with it.
Victor

 

[papab]

Why do so many use the sound mats? I didn't use any and don't miss it. Maybe I don't know what I'm missing but the only annoying noise I get is from the wind around my roof vent.

 

[victorul]

After I picked-up the van at the dealer, on the way home I went tho visit an old friend living on a farm. That means, I had to drive quite a distance on gravel road.
The rocks that were hurled from my new tires into the wheel wells sounded like machine gun fire. I knew then, that only the best sound deadening will be good enough.
As for the ceiling - have you ever tried to sleep in your van during a heavy rainstorm?
Have you ever been riding in a Rolls Royce? Neither have I. But it can't be much quieter than my PM.

 

[RDinNHandAZ]

It is pretty much a way to get rid of a hundred dollars or more for almost no benefit, just buy a little for the wheel wells and then the glued on polysio board will deaden the rest. Thinsulate in the ribs for some sound and heat insulation. Save the $100+ for something that will improve the van. Or just buy a Rolls Royce and be done with it.

 

[victorul]

You can not control sound with light weight material
You need dense mass.
If you want a cheap solution - buy ear plugs?

 

[keeponvaning]

Why do so many use the sound mats? I didn't use any and don't miss it. Maybe I don't know what I'm missing but the only annoying noise I get is from the wind around my roof vent.

They think they should. Sometimes reality and perceived reality are 180° apart

 

[papab]

For the road noise I used thinsulite around the wheel wells and lower walls, foam insulation and OSB on the floor. Works great, gives you thermal insulation too. Yes I have slept in the van in a rain storm, doesn't bother me too much, but that might be a good application for the sound mats.