Ram Promaster Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
2014-159 HR in CT
Joined
·
3,709 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Phase 1 in place, needs some detail work, but I wanted a floor in before it got too cold to work outside on the van. For some reason, I can't fit it in my garage...

Templates made it easier:


I put a fiber backing on the base floor to eliminate noise from metal/wood contact. Harbor Freight moving blankets cut to size and stapled in place.


First floor down.. (I made 2, to create a basement), The floor is held in place by bolts in tie downs, and a friction fit on the sides.


Next, the "foundation walls". 4 1/2" high to hold top floor. I bolted these with threaded brass inserts to the bottom floor.


Top floor in place in the back:


Step up at side sliding door


So... you may be saying, "why is he doing this?"

The plan is to use the van for a variety of non-business purposes, from hauling, to day trips, to perhaps some light camping. The van will have a few couches, some storage, a 20" TV/DVD (already installed temporarily), etc. Probably no kitchen, but perhaps a porta-potti nook in the back corner.

On the other hand, I'd like to be able to use it to haul some plywood or 2x4s home without disturbing the finished area.

Given that my wife and I are 5'5' or under, I decided that I didn't need all that "fresh unused air" over my head. Instead, why not lose 6" of ceiling height, and have a few 4 1/2" storage areas under the floor.

From the back, you can see the 5" x 98" main basement, capable of carrying about 5 sheets of 3/4" plywood or a bunch of 8' 2x4s. Up front, the slider offers a second basement area for folding camp chairs, blanket etc.

When not transporting "stuff" in the basement, I have a 4 1/2" "joist that I slide up the center so the floor doesn't flex when I walk on it.... a 50" span needs some additional support. If I pick up plywood, I just slide it to one side. Same thing with the front basement area. Chairs fit on each side of a center removable joist.

An added advantage is that the walk from the driver's cabin to the back no longer has a step down! There's still about 5" above my head clearance once a ceiling goes in.

... A slightly different design but I thought I'd share with fellow forum members who have shared so many good ideas about how to build out a Promaster!

Ed
 

·
Registered
2014-159 HR in CT
Joined
·
3,709 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
How did you attach lower floor to steel floor?
seapro,

The wood was a tight fit, especially with a width of the moving blanket to wedge it into place. I did measure out holes where all the cargo hold downs were and put stainless steel bolts with washers to hold the floor down.

I really didn't need the hold downs and will use them in the wall's threaded inserts if I need to strap something in. The top layer of floor is sheet rock screwed to the foundation walls I built.

Ed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Depending on how tight your friction fit is, you may have some squeaking from it. I did the same and, a couple of the corners really squeaked while driving. Was an easy fix before I did anything else to it.
 

·
Registered
2014-159 HR in CT
Joined
·
3,709 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Man REAL NICE floor system
jmt,

Thanks! I used 3/4" poplar plywood from 'de Depot. It took 6 sheets. Most of the foundation walls were made of 4 1/2" strips of the leftover plywood screwed together to make it 1 1/2" thick, like a 2x4 (but 4 1/2" high).

Total cost was under $300 for the plywood, moving blankets, screws, and washers.

Lots of hours.....would have been a lot faster if I was 20 years younger!

Ed
 

·
Registered
2014-159 HR in CT
Joined
·
3,709 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Depending on how tight your friction fit is, you may have some squeaking from it. I did the same and, a couple of the corners really squeaked while driving. Was an easy fix before I did anything else to it.
Powderman,

I used Dwight's floor install as my model:
http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=101025&postcount=1

He uses a fiber layer below the wood as a cushion, and I like the idea of wrapping the edges to create a metal/wood buffer. It worked well for me too! I found that the moving blankets looked a lot like the cloth fiber underlayment he used so I decided to give it a try.

tight fit = I pushed it firmly into place, no hammers, no jumping up and down on it....

So far, so good. Winter temperatures and then back to warm will be the test. I'm in CT, so I really wanted it done before it got too cold. I think I will put a vinyl floor on the top floor and polyurethane the edges that show all around.

In my (heated) garage, I can now work on some couch/bed ideas, electric battery setup, etc. during the winter!

Ed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Garage floor

I also built something similar in my sprinter,false floor,I built a 10in hi draw that fit between the wheel wheels,use it for part of my storage system,one thing to keep in your mind is to make sure that moving blanket never sees any moisture as could present a mold problem,just love seeing other peoples ideas,kicking around a pm to get rid of my sprinter,I live just over the border in ri,good building!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Nice job....just wanted to give you a heads up before building the rest of it out. I used 5/8 Advantec T&G, then glued & stapled 1/4" oak ply then glued Lon coin vinyl flooring to that with no fasteners to hold it down. Hasn't moved a bit but the corners squeaked like crazy before I sanded them down.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top