Phase 1 in place, needs some detail work, but I wanted a floor in before it got too cold to work outside on the van. For some reason, I can't fit it in my garage...
Templates made it easier:
![]()
I put a fiber backing on the base floor to eliminate noise from metal/wood contact. Harbor Freight moving blankets cut to size and stapled in place.
![]()
First floor down.. (I made 2, to create a basement), The floor is held in place by bolts in tie downs, and a friction fit on the sides.
![]()
Next, the "foundation walls". 4 1/2" high to hold top floor. I bolted these with threaded brass inserts to the bottom floor.
![]()
Top floor in place in the back:
![]()
Step up at side sliding door
![]()
So... you may be saying, "why is he doing this?"
The plan is to use the van for a variety of non-business purposes, from hauling, to day trips, to perhaps some light camping. The van will have a few couches, some storage, a 20" TV/DVD (already installed temporarily), etc. Probably no kitchen, but perhaps a porta-potti nook in the back corner.
On the other hand, I'd like to be able to use it to haul some plywood or 2x4s home without disturbing the finished area.
Given that my wife and I are 5'5' or under, I decided that I didn't need all that "fresh unused air" over my head. Instead, why not lose 6" of ceiling height, and have a few 4 1/2" storage areas under the floor.
From the back, you can see the 5" x 98" main basement, capable of carrying about 5 sheets of 3/4" plywood or a bunch of 8' 2x4s. Up front, the slider offers a second basement area for folding camp chairs, blanket etc.
When not transporting "stuff" in the basement, I have a 4 1/2" "joist that I slide up the center so the floor doesn't flex when I walk on it.... a 50" span needs some additional support. If I pick up plywood, I just slide it to one side. Same thing with the front basement area. Chairs fit on each side of a center removable joist.
An added advantage is that the walk from the driver's cabin to the back no longer has a step down! There's still about 5" above my head clearance once a ceiling goes in.
... A slightly different design but I thought I'd share with fellow forum members who have shared so many good ideas about how to build out a Promaster!
Ed
Templates made it easier:
I put a fiber backing on the base floor to eliminate noise from metal/wood contact. Harbor Freight moving blankets cut to size and stapled in place.
First floor down.. (I made 2, to create a basement), The floor is held in place by bolts in tie downs, and a friction fit on the sides.
Next, the "foundation walls". 4 1/2" high to hold top floor. I bolted these with threaded brass inserts to the bottom floor.
Top floor in place in the back:
Step up at side sliding door
So... you may be saying, "why is he doing this?"
The plan is to use the van for a variety of non-business purposes, from hauling, to day trips, to perhaps some light camping. The van will have a few couches, some storage, a 20" TV/DVD (already installed temporarily), etc. Probably no kitchen, but perhaps a porta-potti nook in the back corner.
On the other hand, I'd like to be able to use it to haul some plywood or 2x4s home without disturbing the finished area.
Given that my wife and I are 5'5' or under, I decided that I didn't need all that "fresh unused air" over my head. Instead, why not lose 6" of ceiling height, and have a few 4 1/2" storage areas under the floor.
From the back, you can see the 5" x 98" main basement, capable of carrying about 5 sheets of 3/4" plywood or a bunch of 8' 2x4s. Up front, the slider offers a second basement area for folding camp chairs, blanket etc.
When not transporting "stuff" in the basement, I have a 4 1/2" "joist that I slide up the center so the floor doesn't flex when I walk on it.... a 50" span needs some additional support. If I pick up plywood, I just slide it to one side. Same thing with the front basement area. Chairs fit on each side of a center removable joist.
An added advantage is that the walk from the driver's cabin to the back no longer has a step down! There's still about 5" above my head clearance once a ceiling goes in.
... A slightly different design but I thought I'd share with fellow forum members who have shared so many good ideas about how to build out a Promaster!
Ed
