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Discussion Starter #1
The oil drain nut is 13mm and really easy to get to. The exhaust is about 6" away so I waited for it to cool down. The filter is awkward to get to. I ended up using a 24mm socket with a universal joint and 1 ft. extension. I recommend laying a towel down by the filter to avoid dripping oil all over the engine. I used 6 quarts of Pennsoil Platinum and a Wix filter. It took about 20 minutes start to finish. I also filled the windshield washer fluid with a very long funnel. That took 1.2 gallons and it wasn't empty. I wonder why they didn't add an extension to that thing so we could fill it up without a funnel.
 

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i found that a ½" wrench fits better than a 13MM and a 15/16 socket fits better than a 24MM.
 

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The oil drain nut is 13mm and really easy to get to. The exhaust is about 6" away so I waited for it to cool down. The filter is awkward to get to. I ended up using a 24mm socket with a universal joint and 1 ft. extension. I recommend laying a towel down by the filter to avoid dripping oil all over the engine. I used 6 quarts of Pennsoil Platinum and a Wix filter. It took about 20 minutes start to finish. I also filled the windshield washer fluid with a very long funnel. That took 1.2 gallons and it wasn't empty. I wonder why they didn't add an extension to that thing so we could fill it up without a funnel.
Just for the fun of it and if you didn't throw the old filter out yet, cut it open. I took a hack saw and cut the plastic ends off and unfolded the paper element. I was quit surprised at all the metal chips in it, and I did my first oil change at 1500 miles. I'd be curious to see if anybody else has found the same thing, or was I just the lucky one. It will tell me if I should trade it in sooner then later.
 

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The oil filters not on top of the engine?

I read a review somewhere about the wonderful oil filter design on the Pentastar. They claimed its mounted on top of the engine. Self drains, no mess changing.

Did it get moved to the bottom when they put it in the ProMaster?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
The oil filters not on top of the engine?

I read a review somewhere about the wonderful oil filter design on the Pentastar. They claimed its mounted on top of the engine. Self drains, no mess changing.

Did it get moved to the bottom when they put it in the ProMaster?
It is on top of the engine. But to get a wrench on it big enough to turn it is tough. It looks like there is plenty of space but it's a bit deceiving. Using an extension and socket with a universal joint attachment was easy.

It does self drain but you always have drips off of the filters.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i found that a ½" wrench fits better than a 13MM and a 15/16 socket fits better than a 24MM.
Actually my 1/2 was really tight. The 13mm fit perfectly. Maybe my tools aren't as accurate as yours. And I just noticed that I actually used 15/16 for the oil filter.
 

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I changed my oil at 1500 miles, the filter had visible metal particles on it which one should expect with a new engine going through the break-in period. Wix filter and Mobil 1 5-20w. I also switched out the oil plug with a qwikvalve (http://www.qwikvalve.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1). Put one of these on my sprinter and never had a problem (225,000). Makes changing oil a breeze especially when you have to do it out in the driveway in the winter! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have used Mobile 1 in all my cars for years but decided not to this time because it doesn't meet Chrysler MS-6395 spec.
 

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Found this on the Mobil 1 web site. I would not use it, just to ensure no warranty issue with RAM dealer.

Question:
Mobil 1 5W-20 and Chrysler MS-6395
Why is your Mobil 1 5W-20 not Chrysler MS-6395 spec approved? Or if it is, why is the certification not on the bottle or website?
-- Josh Eads, Cabot, AR

Answer:
Chrysler’s latest revision to the MS-6395 specification calls for a field trial spanning multiple seasons over two years. While we fully expect the exceptional performance of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil to meet Chrysler’s specification requirements, at this time we are in the process of evaluating our timeline to start this testing.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I read that too. My next question was why do these other oils meet the new spec? After doing some research I found that Pennsoil Ultra far surpassed Mobil 1 and Pennsoil Platinum also surpassed Mobil 1. Here's one of the website I checked out.

http://www.pqiamerica.com
 

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I used Shell full synthetic. It's always on sale at Costco or BJ's. I'm not at home now so I don't have the details or the price even, but it does have the Chrysler approval right on the container and is less than Mobil1 for what it's worth.
 

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I changed my oil at 1500 miles, the filter had visible metal particles on it which one should expect with a new engine going through the break-in period. Wix filter and Mobil 1 5-20w. I also switched out the oil plug with a qwikvalve (http://www.qwikvalve.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1). Put one of these on my sprinter and never had a problem (225,000). Makes changing oil a breeze especially when you have to do it out in the driveway in the winter! ;)
new link:
http://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/?target=main
 

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I have found the filter IS self draining. But you have to let it sit a while to do so. I like to change the filter after it has been parked and half cooled down. Then I drive it up my ramps and proceed to drain the oil pan. Pour in 6 quarts. Drive it off the ramps and check the level after a bit just to be sure. Very easy van to service IMO! Not perfect. But compared to many I have owned over the decades, quite well thought out.
 

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Remember the diesel requires a different oil and none of those mentioned meet the spec.

-Oil-Chrysler MS-11106= Pennzoil Ultra Euro L 5W-30 Full Syn, Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP Synthetic, Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic Euro Motor Oil 5W30.... and others.

I use the Kendall.
 

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Just did my first oil change. Super easy with that top mounted filter.

Some things to share... I got this Flex Head Stubby Ratchet set from HF for $9 after coupon. Comes with 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drives.
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They didn't have a 24mm socket, so I went to Lowe's for that.
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There was plenty of room in there for the stubby ratchet and socket to break the cap free. Be sure to take the ratchet off the cap before reaching the end of the threads otherwise it will bottom out against housing just above the cap.

When putting the cap back on. it was impossible to get a torque wrench in there to check the torque (25.5 Nm per the marking on the cap). I felt some resistance as I was tightening it, but it seemed to remain constant. I definitely felt when the flange met the housing interface. Once I felt that I snugged it up just a tiny bit more.

I replaced the Oil Drain Pug with THIS one from AZ. The original one looked like it had a nylon gasket and was pretty torn up.
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One last thing... When putting the new O-Ring onto the cap, placement is very important.
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