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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy folks - I am no electrician, but I've been doing a ton of research on wiring my new 2500 Window Van for my DIY camper buildout and I would appreciate the combined knowledge of the forum.

Questions:
  • Have I missed anything?
  • Have I done something that is going to burn up my van?
  • Is anything going to electrocute me?
  • Did you do something different and/or are you happy with your setup?
  • Anything else?

Here is the wiring diagram I have pulled together - Thanks in advance for your input:
Potential Wiring Diagram by Spencer Williams, on Flickr
PS: I'm not an electrician - if you choose to use this diagram yourself, you do so at your own risk.
 

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It's way to small for me to even read so I can't comment. Can you post a higher resolution image?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Added PDF

I added a larger version and you should be able to download it from flickr at over 2800px wide.

https://flic.kr/p/ySSwr4

I also attached a PDF version here as well.
 

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I was reading in another thread/forum about the need for a disconnect (on/off) switch right after the solar panels before the controller. It seems you need a way to turn off any input from them if and when you need to remove the house battery. Has to do with spikes.



Here's a PDF from AMSolar. You can see the switch on the left.


http://www.amsolar.com/shop/wpimages/5srs-25mppt6pro.v15.06.10.pdf
 

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It looks as if he has a 30 a fuse that could serve the same purpose. I put both a fuse and a switch between my panels and the controller, much easier and cleaner way to do it.
 

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Nice walk through an RV scheme - a quick study reveals..


At the AC breaker panel there needs to be a main 30A breaker controlling branch circuits, don't be counting on upstream limiting. If you are thinking the "AC Main Off" might be a selector for shore power or generator there'd still need to be a master breaker above the two 20A & two 15A breakers. What about Arc-fault and Ground-Fault at the AC panel?


And likely you need a switching AC ground, keep a single point ground at all times; depend on the shore power ground or the chassis ground but not both; quick example is campground power being ground fault protected, every time you connect it will drop. And.. does the AIMS 2000 have a bonded or floating neutral?


150A Fuse on 6AWG? Eeek. 6AWG may be good for 35A.


AC mains 120V... should be black/white schematic, line black and neutral white. Always.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the feedback so far, I will certainly consider. And to clarify a couple of call outs: all the "701"s in circles are disconnect switches to take segments offline as needed and I can't draw white wire on white paper.
 

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White on white? think outline, tube, light grey dotted, etc. etc..


And for whatever reason if one have two 20A circuits pulling 18 and the two 15A's pulling 12 there and one is counting on upstream devices not immediately present that is still 60A and all the mechanical disconnects in the world won't help to keep the wire from being damaged...
 

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I'm in the same boat with not being an electrition and know nothing about A/C power, but a couple things I have learned off of cheaprvliving.com

1. you want a fuse at both ends of your positive wire going from vehicle battery to house battery. If there is a short in that wire you want both batteries isolated via fuse. As such you may want this wire going directly to your house battery, not a terminal block/bus bar, but others may know more than me though

2. you "may" not want to use the body as ground. Aparently this can cause issues later on. It sucks running the second wire for everything, but my cause less problems.

3. Most fridges call for a dedicated wire from the battery. I don't quite understand this, but I've read it in a couple places.

4. Not trying to promote a different site, but cheaprvliving.com has a welth of info and friendly fokes. I'd suggest asking the same question over there. Those guys live in their vans and know their stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
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