Ram Promaster Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
2014 136” HR
Joined
·
4,860 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm finally building cabinetry. I'm soliciting ideas for fastening them to the van body--not keen on having one go flying. I'm particularly interested in how cabinetry could be made secure yet removeable. My walls are 1/4” Luan, and the floor 1/2” ply held down by the tie-downs.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,725 Posts
I have been thinking a bit about this. My goals are the same as yours but you are doing the R&D. Here is my dilemma, if the van body is not rigid enough a solid cabinet attached with a rigid system to a flexing body will move and rack the cabinet. I have a Phoenix popup truck camper with cabinets that are attached with 2" strap L brackets like an amateur builder would hold the corners together. I thought it was cheesy construction so I glued and screwed blocks in the corners to hold everything... not pretty inside but stout! The truck's flexing and the camper flexing when out on 4X4 desert roads tore the cabinets apart! Roby built it to flex!
I reason that building a rigid cabinet that is stoutly and safely held but with a bit of give might be the correct answer. Like this
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,090 Posts
I used a combination of ¼" rivnuts and nuts and bolts with absolutely no problems at all with anything moving, flexing or loosening. It's a non-problem in my opinion!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,725 Posts
I used a combination of ¼" rivnuts and nuts and bolts with absolutely no problems at all with anything moving, flexing or loosening. It's a non-problem in my opinion!
This is sort of experience we need to hear to ignore the vans (non) flex. I expect it is more rigid than my truck's body on frame. I'll plan to hitch that sucka. I still need to have much of the cabinetry removable so the latches and other attachments will need to be removable. See:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFmYwEXE-ro&spfreload=10
For MsNomer: The floor should be a good attachment surface perhaps with anchors through it and the van's floor if nervous, the luan does not offer much as you know so attachment of wall peaces must attach to the van's ribs?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
This is a good topic, I have been following a lot of builds on this site and as yet have not seem much information on how builders are actually fastening their creations to the walls and floors of their vans.

I would think the engineering of the attachment methods would be very important, if the van was involved in an accident all the parts fastened to the walls and floors could easily become air borne and fly into the drivers compartment causing serious injury.

This is the reason the manufacturer supplies the barrier wall option between the cargo area and the front drivers area for work vans.

Many companies will not allow a van on the road unless it has a barrier for the driver.

Adding cabinets, bits and pieces of this and that poorly fastened could turn the van into a death trap.
This could also bring on insurance claim problems if proved it was an inferior build.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
855 Posts
This is a good topic, I have been following a lot of builds on this site and as yet have not seem much information on how builders are actually fastening their creations to the walls and floors of their vans.

Then go check out the countless builds on sprinter-source.com. Most say that rivnuts are the best to use to fasten cabinets to the van walls.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
2014 136” HR
Joined
·
4,860 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I've spent a far bit of time over there. I concluded that their cargo interiors are much friendlier to DIY upfitters.

I have what is probably an odd build: Except for the sink/battery cabinet behind the driver, all cabinet boxes will be 28" tall. This is too short to tie into the waist rib, and the cabinets over the wheel wells do not extend far enough back to meet the rear vertical rib. We are currently thinking our solution will be a cross-piece of angle iron spanning the cavity.

Even with what may seem minimal cabinetry, we are marveling at the storage space we will have.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
I bolted 2x4's to the mid rib, using both the threaded inserts already in the rib and a few bolts I pre-inserted before paneling. Also screwed the 2x4 in using sheet-metal screws. Cabinets were then screwed to the 2x4. Cabinet bases were attached to the floor using the tie downs wherever possible.

The bottom of the 2x4 works out just right for my 27.5" high bed platform. Kitchen counter went right on top of the 2x4.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top