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Wow, I had no idea it would be this complicated. Sub’ing to see what other people have done. What’s the micro switch and key for in the diagram?


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow, I had no idea it would be this complicated. Sub’ing to see what other people have done. What’s the micro switch and key for in the diagram?


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The micro switch is a “fully” retracted shut off.

Not sure about the key - assuming some ignition safety tie in so ya can’t “deploy the chute” while driving?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Ok;

Not seeing any answers here, I phoned & emailed Fiamma (ie I was not so lazy to rely upon the forum 😁)

In case anyone else is going to pre-wire for a F80 electric motor here is a marked up diagram;

Rectangle Font Parallel Schematic Engineering


2 wires for power from the house battery “red circle”

3 wires “signal wires” from extend/retract switch “yellow circle”

1 wire “signal” the engine is running (ie do not deploy the chute)😁 “blue circle”

2 wires for power to LED lights if desired “shown in green & added by me”


Me thinks I will run some left over 3 wire for battery to roof for motor power & LED lights (using the black wire as a common ground). LEDs are typical low draw & rarely on while extending/retracting the awning. Make sence?
 

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Why an electric awning? I've never used one, but manual awnings don't seem particularly difficult or inconvenient. Manual stuff generally breaks down less often and is easier to troubleshoot and repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Why an electric awning? I've never used one, but manual awnings don't seem particularly difficult or inconvenient. Manual stuff generally breaks down less often and is easier to troubleshoot and repair.
Most people use an awning for sun I suppose. Mrs. RV8R wants one for the sun & the rain. I can envision us using it in a manor of extending it a foot or two in the rain in order to utilize the slider door and not get in inside of the van as wet.

If it was up to me (& it is not), I would not have an awning.

So I plan on getting a F80 which comes with a manual pole & crank. And adding the motor which is just a “remove the manual crank & bolt on the motor & manual crank - it has both.
 

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Most people use an awning for sun I suppose. Mrs. RV8R wants one for the sun & the rain. I can envision us using it in a manor of extending it a foot or two in the rain in order to utilize the slider door and not get in inside of the van as wet.
You know, you could also get out in the rain and crank out the awning for her. 😉
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So ,,, After reviewing all of this with my Electrician Friend of decades, I decided to purchase and run a 10G 10/2 red black to the roof from the DC panel. I found a shorter run & with consideration of voltage drop & being unfamiliar with the Italian made equipment and the “Multiple Language” manual & knowing my “Luck” better safe than sorry;

Here are the Cole’s Notes;


Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern Slope



12v @ 12A = 144W

The motor fuse is probably a “Slow to Blow”

Language Transfer from an Italian Manufacturer & the word“ Absorption” 🤔

Conclusion & “on the side of caution”; “Absorption” meaning is initial “start up current” so even though the motor will draw 4 amps it is possible that briefly it will draw up to 12 amps when the the switch is operated to 1st extend/retract the awning. Assuming the fuse which they specifically exactly is “Slow to Blow” after the “initial bump” the motor will draw less than 4 amps.

Blaa, Blaa, Blaa the 12g I ran can easily take the amperage & a lot more, but depending upon the voltage drop spec designing to, the 10g will allow for a smaller voltage drop @ the motor (which might be required). Either way, the 10g (& shorter run I planned) will be “easier on the motor”, and might support a warranty claim if it gets burnt out.

I wanted to “Pre-Wire & without the actual equipment in hand that I can see, taste, smell, etc I have to assume. My preference is always get the equipment in hand (along with the current install manual & any other possible Manufacturer’s “got ya” paper) before I design the systems. But that aint happening in this case.
 

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I believe that they make an awning version / mount that is designed specifically for the promaster.

They have their own mount design for the roof. Wasn't cheap and not as solar panel friendly as I wanted but it did seem to deal with the promaster roof mounts without needing a lot of extra holes.

Again - this is from memory and that doesn't always work very accurately.

I can understand the value of having an awning to sit under and hang out in light rains / low wind.

I tend to mount solar panels on 1515 rails which in theory can be used for awnings as well but have not tried yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I believe that they make an awning version / mount that is designed specifically for the promaster.

They have their own mount design for the roof. Wasn't cheap and not as solar panel friendly as I wanted but it did seem to deal with the promaster roof mounts without needing a lot of extra holes.

Again - this is from memory and that doesn't always work very accurately.
My buddy @CDN_PM purchased an F80 for his 159” WB & the 3 mounts look good to me.

I hear ya on the solar rack as it takes up 3 of the roof lugs & probably covers the remaining 2 on the passenger side, but if I ever install solar I would do what @GaryBIS did with a very low profile direct mount & holes thru the roof 😳.

I‘m not installing solar on my van anytime soon.
 

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My buddy @CDN_PM purchased an F80 for his 159” WB & the 3 mounts look good to me.

I hear ya on the solar rack as it takes up 3 of the roof lugs & probably covers the remaining 2 on the passenger side, but if I ever install solar I would do what @GaryBIS did with a very low profile direct mount & holes thru the roof 😳.

I‘m not installing solar on my van anytime soon.
I have toyed with the idea of using some hybrid combination of solar panels / etc to make an awning.

It is possible - not sure about practical. But what does that matter? :)
 
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