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Discussion Starter #1
So my espar D2 is being delivered in a few days... and I just read the installation instructions online. WOW! I maybe getting in over my head here. I saw a post previously about where to tap into the diesel tank and thought it might be pretty easy to do, but the online instructions seem anything but intuitive to me.

Has anyone installed one of these in their promaster and willing to give a little write up about it? I've search the interwebs to no avail so far.

Specific questions include-
Do I need a special L tube connector piece to go clip onto the port for the diesel?

Do I need to run the diesel line inside or out of the van?

Does the heater really come in as many pieces as is shown on the owners manual or is it sort of put together?


Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated... I have a bit of a deadline to get my van finished and I'm starting to freak out a little bit
 

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I am sort of a cave man and I did it. You can too. First see: http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37177&page=6 post 55. Pictures and a bit of write up.
1. Remove the fuel tank cover partially under the drivers seat and the metal cover under that. Slide the clip back and pull the cap off the barb fitting into the tank. I cut the elbow off the brass tube supplied with the Espar and connected it to the barb fitting with my gas line hose and clamps. Then connected the fuel hose supplied to the other end with clamps, feed the hose down between the gas tank and the bulkhead and closed up.
2. Cut the two holes for the air pickup and exhaust in the floor, and drill the hole for the fuel line, electrical line, and the bolts for the Espar. Fit the Espar to the holes with the gasket between it and the floor and install the nuts from below. Pass the fuel pump wiring down its hole. Discard the plate. Go below and attach the pump in a protected place (side of a frame bulkhead?) tilted up 15 degrees and connect the plastic fuel line to the pump. Cut the rubber fuel line from the tank to the correct length, put on a clamp loosely, suck some diesel to start a siphon (makes life easier later.) Spit out diesel a while, then connect the fuel line to the pump. Connect the electrical to the pump and the air pick up and exhaust (in opposite directions?) to the Espar avoid stuff that can melt or burn. That exhaust gets hot.
3. Back inside run the wire harness for the controller to a good place to turn it on when you want it and the power line to a switched supply. Plug in the controller, attach the large cold air supply and heat out pipe and diffuser, (cut the black Al and paper tube) turn on the power, enjoy the heat. Being a caveman I then opened a brew, propped up my feet and let 'er run through a cycle to fully warm the camper, about 15 minutes, checked everything for leaks, stuff near the exhaust, etc. Three hours max. Lots of pieces. Run it outside. Relax it's all logical. A degree in physics helps.
You're Welcome.
RD
 
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Discussion Starter #3
RD,

Awesome thanks for the info and your vote of confidence. Mine should be arrive in a few days... stay tuned! (no seriously stay tuned I may need more help :)

I guess I didn't realize when I started this project how ambitious it was being that I'm not a carpenter, plumber, or electrician... I get overwhelmed sometimes... these boards have been saving me big time.

Thanks for taking the time to reply

Jim
 

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RD

I haven't installed my D2 yet so thanks for the write up and pictures. I was wondering how I was going to clear the muffler.

I did install an Espar D5 in my previous camper, so there is one suggestion I would like to make.

I wouldn't connect the power to a switched circuit. I would just use the fuse supplied by Espar. The unit goes into a controlled cool down sequence when it shuts off and if someone accidently turned of the power at the switch that cool down wouldn't happen. It might cause damage from overheating something internal to the unit.

Just a suggestion, otherwise, thanks again for the writeup and pictures.


RD, How far back from the step up to the cab did you drill the holes for the intake and exhaust?
 

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I grabbed a Eberspacher D10 hydronic heater way back to use in my perpetual Airstream trailer rebuild project. The D10 is still sealed in the box as of today, but what I have learned is fuel quality counts hugely in these small pulse burn heaters over the long run. If you look at the asking prices for rebuild kits I hope you'll agree and provide accordingly in your installs or designs.

I've been hunting for an inline fuel polishing filter at 2um (microns) or less for a while unsuccessfully, the sintered bronze style are lucky to have 10um. The closest thing I've come across is a RACOR disposable but it still measures 4x8x2.5" and could be very messy in confined spaces to service or God help us if the plastic failed somehow..

www.ebay.com/sch/Racor+23106-02
 

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another suggestion is to release the fuel tank pressure by unscrewing the filler cap prior to popping off the aux cap or you will have a little spew out on top of the fuel tank, otherwise the install is not as bad as the instructions seem. Just follow the directions for which thermostat you have since they come with the connectors not complete (so you can fish the wires thru smaller holes).

I installed mine on the vertical section below the passenger seat since I couldn't place it on the cargo floor in a safe place where I wanted due to the DEF tank being there. that location was extra difficult and I wouldn't recommend it unless you are very confident and skilled with tools since I had to customize a mounting plate.

also buy an exhaust silencer/muffler, its not too loud but it's definitely loud from the exterior when its at full boost (sounds like a med-high whistle or roar)
 

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As for the distance back from the bulkhead, I'd have to pull up my floor, not a big deal but not for a couple of days- perhaps 10-12 inches. The sideways position is more important to get it close to the wall and avoid the longitudinal frame. I drilled a test hole in error and moved it outwards as you can see in one or two pictures. That is important to allow you to install it and have the air intake and exhaust fit in the space near the muffler but above the Al shielding. I am so happy with the position of mine as it was easy to install and if I take out the dinette and its floor, the bed and the galley I have an almost empty van in a few minutes and the heater is near the edge of the floor and out of the way between the battery set and the bulkhead.
 
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another suggestion is to release the fuel tank pressure by unscrewing the filler cap prior to popping off the aux cap or you will have a little spew out on top of the fuel tank, otherwise the install is not as bad as the instructions seem. Just follow the directions for which thermostat you have since they come with the connectors not complete (so you can fish the wires thru smaller holes).

I installed mine on the vertical section below the passenger seat since I couldn't place it on the cargo floor in a safe place where I wanted due to the DEF tank being there. that location was extra difficult and I wouldn't recommend it unless you are very confident and skilled with tools since I had to customize a mounting plate.

also buy an exhaust silencer/muffler, its not too loud but it's definitely loud from the exterior when its at full boost (sounds like a med-high whistle or roar)

So happy to hear it has been done under the passenger side!
I got my heater a few days ago and started measure and seem like it would fit nicelly there.
Such a great spot to save space.

Any way you can share some pic of the install or plate you used?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey RD, (or anyone else who feels like chiming in...)

So my heater arrived today, and your right, not nearly as complicated as I thought...

One question though... I'm trying to figure out exactly where to mount it, and I noticed that you placed yours on uneven ground right on top of the 'dimple' of the van floor. Did you use any kind of leveling device? You also said that you did not use the mounting plate that came with it right?

Lastly, did you use any type of heat resistant silicone or anything to seal the holes around the exhaust and intake ect...

Thanks in advance
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Also, when you cut that brass 90 degree angle piece to hook it up to the nipple that goes to the gas tanks "short straw"... were you able to still screw on the black circular metal piece that covers the gas tank compartment? It looks pretty tight in there to me as it is...
 

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No problem it fit!
Here are the position pictures I promised. First here is my raised floor under the dinette table I set aside.

And here is the Espar positioned. I have a grill in the side of the floor separator to let air enter the end of the Espar which has a grill that came for it.

Best, RD
 
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I am and am not looking forward to the likely installation of an Espar unit. We figured on using the van for a season or two before deciding on the diesel heat. This means I have the floor structure already installed; closed cell foam, 1" polyiso foam, 1/8" ABS plastic, and 3/8" rubber flooring. Going to be interesting to cut through all of that to get a good mount to the real floor of the van.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update from a mere moral:

The hose that espar supplies does NOT fit on the promaster's auxiliary gas line port. You can jam it on there... about halfway or so, but doing it that way just seems too wonky to me, especially knowing that fuel is going to be running through it and all the bumpy roads I will be traveling on in the future.

Tomorrows mission: find an adapter piece that fits. If anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears
 

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True it won't, I went to the local auto-parts store and went out back with the nice girl and she let me try hoses until I found one that was a bit big for the brass and a bit small for the barb (a drill bit shank that size accompanied me to the store), it and two nice clamps cost me $2.17. They had blank stares when I asked about adapters. Good luck.
 

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I don't want to figure out how to post photos on here but attached is a facebook page link I just created which I hope works that has some photos from my installs. the only thing I would have done differently with the heater would be to make the mounting plate different because the holes were difficult to get the self tapping screws in.

https://www.facebook.com/Platypus-campervan-541990215960219/
 

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I am amazed you got the hot exhaust out of the bulkhead and down in that location. I looked and decided it couldn't be done there or under the passenger seat! Good job. Since I have raised a floor across the front your location would have worked for me too.
A few pictures can be dragged into the "Drag files here to attach" section and become thumbs that can be opened- that is so easy you may want to use it once in a while, but you hit a limit soon. Thanks for the post.
 

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whenever I was researching the install I found somewhere (I think it was a German website) there was a recommended fiat install under the passenger seat which lead me to examine the possibilities. I could not put mine under the seat in place of the tool kit due to me making some custom lowered seat brackets (3" lower than stock). there is plenty of room above the engine exhaust heat shield, but unless you remove the exhaust it is extremely difficult to access but possible as I didn't remove anything.

and thanks for the tip for adding photos, but i'll probably just keep them on the facebook page to keep it simple for me
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Another update,

Its installed! I'm super excited. It was not as hard as the instructions make it appear. It took this soft handed nurse about a full day to complete including multiple runs to the store for additional hose clamps (was kind of frustrating that after spending close to $1000, that clamps that were clearly listed in the instructions were not shipped with the heater...)

A 1/4 hose fit the brass angle pipe well and was easy to fit over the aux tanks nipple.

One complaint is that the espar's fuel pump is really loud! I don't have my floor installed yet and I plan to place a cabinet over where the pump is and I hope that helps some.

Has anyone else found these pumps especially loud and has anyone done anything about it??? I was thinking about putting some rubber in between the vans frame where I mounted it and the actual pump to maybe stop some sound resonance. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks again to all who posted suggestions
 

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Congratulations! I knew you could do it! The pump ticks and yes it is sort of loud. My pump mounting bracket has a rubber ring around the pump to quiet it. I have the floor in and I can hear it but oddly it doesn't bother me. The exhaust muffler quieted that noise somewhat and when it runs on its low setting the pump is louder for sure. Perhaps a shroud or insulated housing made from ????? You pump is outside like mine, right? Where are your pictures? We want to see!
 
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