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Discussion Starter #1
I installed an Espar B4L gas heater in my van in January. It worked great for a couple months and now it shuts off after running for 10-20 minutes and gives me error code P000129. It will fail and I'll restart it 3-4 times and on the 4th time it'll then run the rest of the night. The people at Espar think it's a voltage issue, which doesn't make sense with that code. I have done all of their recommendations: replaced fuses, ran with car on and car off, checked fuel lines for kinks/leaks, deleted errors, etc. Nothing has worked.

Has anyone else had any issues like this? I have been running it anywhere from 25-45 degrees F and at 5-7K feet.

Would love any advice. I leave my dog in the car sometimes and really don't like that the heater isn't running reliably.
 

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Annaldaho, Did you get an answer. I installed the B4L and I am getting basically the same problem. Runs for almost exactly 25 minutes. stops, attempts a restart and then gives error "H1 Service". and the under the Workshop menu. Heater error P000129. I have been emailing with Heatso, who I bought the unit from and they have not been helpful.
 

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I did, I don't know how tho check the flame sensor. 1) Check exhaust and combustion air system. 2) Check fuel quantity and fuel supply, 3) Check flame sensor,
 

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@kevin sickles Heatso was NOT helpful at all! But after a lot of trial and error, I think I figured out the issue. I'm not sure how your gas line is hooked into your tank, but we had to use two different sized rubber hoses to go from the gas line to the fuel line quick connector (Amazon.com: Dorman 800-081 Fuel Line Quick Connector for 5/16 In. Steel to 5/16 In. Nylon Tubing, Pack of 2: Automotive). The hoses we used were a pretty tight fit and we realized that it was not allowing enough fuel to flow through. We ended up shaving down the end of the smaller hose so the fit would keep it more open. Hopefully that makes sense!

@KilWerBzz the repair guide is not helpful at all.
 

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@kevin sickles I should also mention that we did have some air bubbles going through for a while, which we determined was a faulty fuel line quick connector. I assume that's why Amazon sells them in a pack of 2 😂 So between that and creating a better fit in the hoses, it seems to be working now. It has been pretty hot so I haven't tested it a lot since then, but it wasn't really working at all before.

I also double checked that the fuel pump was at the correct angle (30 degrees). If you watch with a light from the fuel line coming out of the tank, you should be able to see if there are bubbles or not.
 

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@AnnaIdaho , Thank you, I was also concerned about the lines from the tank. The last round of troubleshooting I ran a line directly from a gas can to the pump, to eliminate any line issues. Still consistently cuts off after 25 minutes. It has also been very hot, I have to set the thermostat to 97 degrees (the temp is around 90). I am wondering if the heat is part of the problem. Getting to the point of finding a dealer and driving to them.

I am also using the Dorman 800-081 I also bought the Dorman 800-186. Not sure it matters. What did you use to reduce the from the Dorman? I used a Brass reducer.
 

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@kevin sickles This is how I have mine. The middle bracket is where the issue was happening. That rubber hose was SO snug into the bigger rubber hose that it was crushed a bit and not allowing enough gas through. I need to purchase the Brass Reducer!
64960
 

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@kevinsickles Did you ever get your heater fixed? If so, what did you discover was the issue? We used ours this weekend and the first night it worked great, the second night it cut out after being on for about 10 min and gave me the error code P000127. I fixed the hose prior to the weekend, so was hoping that would have fixed it. Anything you found out about yours would be helpful! Thanks!
 

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This is how I have mine. The middle bracket is where the issue was happening. That rubber hose was SO snug into the bigger rubber hose that it was crushed a bit and not allowing enough gas through. I need to purchase the Brass Reducer!
It looks like you have a connector with the 8mm (5/16) fitting.The Dorman 800-186 has a 6mm (1/4") barbed fitting. . If you use the 800-186 you won't need two pieces of hose. The smaller hose you are using can be wrestled over the nipple. Put a little oil on it.


 

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I just installed a new B4L using this connector. It was a near perfect fit. No additional step-down connectors needed. I haven't had a chance to use it for an extended time yet, but the initial startup and testing went fine.

Amazon.com: Fuel Line Quick Connector 5/16 Bundy Female to Barb for 1/8" 3mm ID Nylon Tubing Elbow 90 Degree for 5/16 Steel to 1/8 Nylon Tube, Pack of 2: Automotive
There it is! I was looking for one of those. Ended up at the local Ace Hardware store to get some brass step downs.
 

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@AnnaIdaho I am back to trying again. (I was away most of the summer) Heatso sent me a new pump. Ran well from a gas can but not from the fuel tank. I then ordered the Dorman 800-186 with the 5/16 connector, referenced above. Just ran an hour long test and went well. I am away again so it will be a few weeks before I can do a longer test.
 

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I can no longer recommend the aux fuel line quick connector I posted above. I had lots of error codes 0127, 0128, and 012a after a recent trip out west, with my B4L and EasyStart Pro controller. The failures increased as my altitude went higher.

I discovered that the interior diameter of the connector was actually slightly smaller than the plastic fuel line. I assumed this was restricting the flow and drilled out the connector barb. This made things better, but I was still having issues over 6k feet.

Next, I managed to find the Dorman 800-186 and necessary connectors at an Oreilly Auto Parts and switch to that. I also pulled apart all of my fuel connections to check for clean cuts, no burrs, and butted joints like stated in the manual. The fuel pump angle was adjusted to 35 degrees. However, no additional improvements were noticed.

Right now, it works reliably below 6k feet. Between roughly 6k and 7.5k it will eventually start after a few tries, but the combustion sounds terrible and like it is going to sputter out at any moment. At 8k and above, forget it.

The main reason I bought the B4L is for it's supposed ability to work up to 3,000m (roughly 9,900ft). It was quite disappointing to be cold and have a non-functioning heater at altitude even after re-doing all of the fuel connections.

A couple of questions for other owners:

1) Does your heater make a much louder "chuff chuff" / locomotive-type of sound during the first 10-30 seconds of combustion? I can even feel the floor vibrating with each "chuff" at first. It's quite distracting until it runs for a bit and smooths out. Just wondering if this is normal?

2) Does anyone have one of these running smoothly at over 8k feet?

Thanks,
 

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2016 3500 ext-ht
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I can no longer recommend the aux fuel line quick connector I posted above. I had lots of error codes 0127, 0128, and 012a after a recent trip out west, with my B4L and EasyStart Pro controller. The failures increased as my altitude went higher.

I discovered that the interior diameter of the connector was actually slightly smaller than the plastic fuel line. I assumed this was restricting the flow and drilled out the connector barb. This made things better, but I was still having issues over 6k feet.

Next, I managed to find the Dorman 800-186 and necessary connectors at an Oreilly Auto Parts and switch to that. I also pulled apart all of my fuel connections to check for clean cuts, no burrs, and butted joints like stated in the manual. The fuel pump angle was adjusted to 35 degrees. However, no additional improvements were noticed.

Right now, it works reliably below 6k feet. Between roughly 6k and 7.5k it will eventually start after a few tries, but the combustion sounds terrible and like it is going to sputter out at any moment. At 8k and above, forget it.

The main reason I bought the B4L is for it's supposed ability to work up to 3,000m (roughly 9,900ft). It was quite disappointing to be cold and have a non-functioning heater at altitude even after re-doing all of the fuel connections.

A couple of questions for other owners:

1) Does your heater make a much louder "chuff chuff" / locomotive-type of sound during the first 10-30 seconds of combustion? I can even feel the floor vibrating with each "chuff" at first. It's quite distracting until it runs for a bit and smooths out. Just wondering if this is normal?

2) Does anyone have one of these running smoothly at over 8k feet?

Thanks,
You need a combustion analyzer to troubleshoot and adjust your unit for the proper fuel/air ratio. Can you actually adjust this ratio? Not sure, but every fuel burning appliance depends on this ratio whether at 9k or sea level.

You are not alone my friend. Others have come before you with similar dismal problems.
 

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@Annaldaho and others. The replacement fuel pump seems to have fixed the problems I was having with error code P000127. I have run overnight a couple of times, No issues. Happy it is working, not thrilled that I probably put 80 hours of troubleshooting to get a fix.
 

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I am having the same issues with my heater. Also purchased from Heatso. I was able to get some tech-support from Eberspacher North America out of Toronto Canada. They recommended I Contact a local service center for repair. I found a place in Denver and called them and they said that they cannot troubleshoot nor diagnose the European purchased heaters since the connector and software is different between the North American versions and the European versions. Heatso will not reply to my emails. The local repair shop will sell me a gasket and filter kit for $20. My error codes have been H1 service P000313 and P000126. I live in Crested Butte, Colorado so I am above 9000 feet. I pulled the fuel line off and it was draining fuel so I don’t think that’s my problem. I also looked at the fuel pump angle and actually adjusted it while it was running and it did not seem to fix the problem. The other problem I have is when the heater stops running my lithium ion batteries get too cold and cut out. Any advice on what my next course of action should be?
 
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