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Great Job.
I see you diannette transforms into bed. What size you got for sleeping ? From wall to wall (when slide-door closed)
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
I'd like more info on your window surround.
The frame is very simple and works well for mounting blinds. I made a ledger board that was screwed to body along the bottom of the van window. The strip was profiled to make a level surface to fasten the window sill. The sill, vertical members, and header were all screwed together to make a box that fit closely around the aluminum window frame. The frame is held in place with screws into the ledger and screws through the facing boards into the van body. No attempt was made to curve the window frame to match the curvature of the window corners.

I will try to post some detail photos soon.





 

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That window surround is friggin awesome! I don't have the skill or time for that but I am stealing the stainless backsplash idea.
Great job!!
 

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Very well designed, engineered and constructed. Thank you for sharing new materials, ideas and techniques with the community. A great reference for others to follow.

Resourceful way to use the window cut out scrap. Looking forward to more details.
 

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z120pi
Awesome job, great eye for detail. I'm in the window covering business. I noticed the blind you used has the 2 slat valance. Over time those little plastic clips will become brittle and break. A little 2 sided velcro on each end should help out, if they tend to rattle. Hunter Douglas, Graber and most manufacturers now make mini-blinds with a one piece cassette headrail. It eliminates the pesky little strips. Most of the RV manufacturers I have seen don't bother putting those on. They don't want a service issue. Hope my efforts look half a good as yours!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Eric's Story - Plumbing Details and Cushions

I had been asked in a PM about details of the plumbing under the van. Today I crawled underneath and snapped some photos using a wide angle lens.

Gray water drain connection to tank:




Note that the drain is really close to the axle. I used a Valterra T1041-1 Eccentric tank reducer, PVC pipe thread adapter, and PVC elbow to connect to the flexible drain hose. I had to cut the reducer and adapter thickness down to provide clearance.




Gray water drain pump with thermal insulation on the discharge hose:






Discharge port:






Traps and drain plumbing into the holding tank, some with thermal insulation adjacent to the exhaust pipe:










I got the cushions today and took some photos showing how they fit. This is the travel mode with the cab seats in the driving position:




This is dining mode with the cab seats fully forward to provide space for the table:






This is the sleeping configuration. One problem turned up when setting up the bed. The large rubber bumper on the door catches on the cushion and pulls it off the bed when the door is opened. I think I am going to have to relocate the bumper to solve this issue.



 

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Discussion Starter #51
z120pi
Awesome job, great eye for detail. I'm in the window covering business. I noticed the blind you used has the 2 slat valance. Over time those little plastic clips will become brittle and break. A little 2 sided velcro on each end should help out, if they tend to rattle. Hunter Douglas, Graber and most manufacturers now make mini-blinds with a one piece cassette headrail. It eliminates the pesky little strips. Most of the RV manufacturers I have seen don't bother putting those on. They don't want a service issue. Hope my efforts look half a good as yours!!!!!
Thanks for the tip on the blinds. I was not aware of the cassette headrail version and just picked a generic 1/2" blind from blinds.com.
 

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Just an amazing conversion! Not it's time to go for a road trip :)


Any reason not putting the diesel heater under the front seat or under the van?
1st time i see the fuel pump inside, how is the noise when it's pulsating ?

Thanks
Sam
 

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Under the front seat seems to present a problem of where to route the air intake and hot exhaust. My pump is outside and I can hear it tick. Normal but you do hear it.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Any reason not putting the diesel heater under the front seat or under the van?
1st time i see the fuel pump inside, how is the noise when it's pulsating ?
I put the heater inside to protect it from water and mud splashed up from the wheels. The location at the back allowed me to run the heater exhaust pipe in parallel with the van's exhaust pipe terminating at the back of the van. It was also convenient to have all of the utilities (batteries, inverter, water pump, and heater) accessible by removing one panel. There was also no need for any inlet or outlet air ducts.

I installed the heater fuel pump under the seat as that was near the maximum allowable suction line length from the fuel pickup. The noise is not objectionable at all - just a regular tick, tick, tick.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I really like your layout, nice use of space.
have you thought about using one of those glass top sinks and or stove tops to maximize counter space when not in use? Or is it too late?
Something like - http://panther-rvproducts.com/SMEV_c131.htm
The combined cooktop/sink would save counter space but my wife wanted the deepest sink that would fit. Our Bigfoot trailer had the typical RV cooktop with the wimpy burners and overly sensitive controls. We wanted more BTUs with electronic ignition and the Ramblewood unit fit the bill. The dinette table is close to the galley so it will be used for food preparation along with the galley counter space.
 

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Fantastic project Eric, and thanks for all of the documentation!

How did you decide on the depth of the framing; i.e. the distance that you wanted it to stand off from vehicle shell?

Also I think you said that the insulation stackup was basically held in place by the taped-in reflectix. Do you think this is sturdy enough to hold it in place while driving, before the wall sheathing goes on? Perhaps some sort of adhesive could be used?

Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Fantastic project Eric, and thanks for all of the documentation!

How did you decide on the depth of the framing; i.e. the distance that you wanted it to stand off from vehicle shell?

Also I think you said that the insulation stackup was basically held in place by the taped-in reflectix. Do you think this is sturdy enough to hold it in place while driving, before the wall sheathing goes on? Perhaps some sort of adhesive could be used?

Charlie
The insulation on the walls was thick enough to come up flush with the structural members that the plywood was attached to. On the roof I added wood spacers only about an inch thick to the frames because I wanted to have as much headroom as possible. I didn't drive the van until the insulation and sheathing was in place so didn't have to worry about it moving. Once in place the Thinsulate expanded and seemed to stay put.
 
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