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2018 3500 Ext
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Vitrifrigo Slim 150 or the regular style DP150i... I'm looking at the latter.. I think, not cheap, might travel to the store to pickup as the delivery charge for residential is another $100 above the usual $250 I think it is.... so I'm hoping to prep the cabinet and then pick up and install... or so I think. More of a European firm, so not a lot listed here in the States.... Florida or Seattle area I think. I think one of the regular companies makes a version similar now... everyone copies everyone else if they are successful.
 

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Hoping to jump on the yogi's plea for Newbie Electro assistance.

My diagram here is equal in complexity to the system I'm aiming for, all I'm looking to power is a few puck lights, 2 reading lights, USB ports, cig outlet and a maxx fan. No appliances in the mix other than a coffee maker, the van I bought came with a 2000 watt inverter that is wired to the starting battery and currently resides under the driver seat. Haven't decided if I'm going to bother moving it to the solar/house system since our AC needs are very small. I figure I could plug the coffee maker into it where it lives now and that may be it's only task, other than charging a laptop.

I read through RD's $500 - $700 solar thread and it seemed way beyond my needs.

Based on Somebodyelse's post #3 in this thread I think I would go with 10AWG from battery to charge controller to solar panel and same from battery to fuse panel. 14awg from panel to all devices.

Longest run is probably going to be from the panel to the charge controller, approx 15'. Thinking one 100watt panel and a single group 27 AGM battery.

Are the 40amp fuses in the Yogi's diagram what I would want between controller >panel and house batt > fuse panel?

Recommend a shut off switch between house battery and fuse panel?

Am I a candidate for something like a goal zero power station or am I on the right track?

Muchos gracias to the collective.

63483
 

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Why not do my solar plan with one panel and one 12 volt golf cart battery? Cost would be $300 or less if you don’t do an inverter and it will run a refrigerator if you live in a sunny climate. For what you list above I would just use the starter battery. No solar or coach battery needed.
 

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I guess I thought that's more or less what my cocktail napkin was showing, one panel and one battery. I'm in Maine so not the sunniest of places, but you're a NH guy right? You know what it's like around here.

I'm sure the starter battery would cover it but don't want to risk running that down, guess I could do that and carry a jump start pack.
 

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It will work but be sure to have an interconnect solenoid JIC. Thanks MsNomer.
 
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