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I bought one of these to heat water going down the road-
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XG9MNGN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]
The Amazon add says 12v DC and 50 watts.
According to one online calculator that is
4.16 amps.
I had a 5 amp fuse blow.
Thoughts so far ??
OK I replaced the 5 amp fuse with a 20 amp fuse and the little hot water machine works
BUT the DC cigarette plug got hot, as in real hot.
What do you guys/gals think?
 

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Not 20! Get a 7 amp fuse and try again, or better yet return it while you still can. I bought a slightly bigger one and it has worked fine, I didn’t look at the fuse but it heats 12 oz of water to 160º in about 10 minutes. The wire does get warm but not so hot you can t hold it. I plan to heat water for my Starbucks Via french roast and pour it into my Stanley one hand insulated mug.
See:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-750ml-S...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
 

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Throw-Out those Unreliable Cigarette Lighters

BUT the DC cigarette plug got hot, as in real hot.
What do you guys/gals think?
Cigarette lighter plugs are notoriously unreliable in the sense that a good electro-mechanical connection - - both on the positive and negative side - - cannot be assured. The problem of a good connection is exacerbated by the fact that the mated connector pair is constantly being subjected to vibration which all but guarantees that the firm connection necessary to maintain a low resistance connection will be violated. You'll get away with cigarette lighter connections for low current applications such as cell phone powering/charging . . . but at higher currents we have found that the faulty physical contacts create high resistance points that become mini-arc-welders. And while the metal contacts and springs may withstand these intense temperatures, the surrounding bakelite 'plastic' begins to disintegrate - - it doesn't melt like plastic, but it does lose its strength and will eventually fall into pieces. We've become quite accustomed to the smell of 'burning bakelite'.

We've all but dumped cigarette lighter connections. Instead we bring a wire out from either the rear of the cigarette lighter socket (or, since we generally want power when the engine is off, to a fused source of allows-on 12 volts). We cut-off the cigarette lighter plugs on all of our chargers and equipment of every kind that comes with a 12 volt cigarette lighter plug. There are literally dozens of good 'connectors' that can be used to replace the cigarette lighter interface. We've elected to use simple Molex 2 pin connectors. Each power cord - - after removal of the cigarette plug - - is fitted with a male Molex connector. The wire from the vehicle fuse box generally includes a multiple "Y" with 3 or 4 Molex female connectors so we can power numerous items at once. We save the 'cut-off' cigarette lighter plugs and place female connectors on them . . . so if we do need to remove a power cable from our vehicle to use somewhere else, we can return that power cable to its original cigarette plug status.

This has eliminated the huge reliability problem that dogged every trip and the possibility of fire.
And we don't miss the smell of burning bakelite.
 

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What about these SAE connectors? I have them on the heated garments for my motorcycle and on battery chargers. I don't see a power rating for them but they do have wall mountable plugs and adapters for anything you might want. I find them a bit harder to plug in or remove but they seem to have a good connection that vibration doesn’t affect. Perhaps I should do one for my hot pot and report back? I looked them up for a quality supplier-Powerlet, and they say 16 amps.
 

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7.5 amp works. Plug nowhere near as hot but still warm. Fuse will go at 7.5 which is way less than my 10 gauge wire can handle for a 3 foot run so I think I'm good. Thanks again RD.
MM,

The plug will get just as warm with a 7.5A fuse as a 20A.... you just made a better connection on this try. Better to use a different connection method.

Might want to look at Anderson Powerpoles (google, lots of info). I've used 'em for years for Ham radio stuff and in the van...regular size rated at 35A, but small in size.
 

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I've used PowerPoles for years. The first thing I do with 12V things that pull more than a fraction of an amp and have lighter plugs is **** off the plug and replace it with a PowerPole.

I have a 12V immersion heater coil that I used before I bought my Promaster, and it would work pretty well for heating water so long as a) you are patient and b) you don't use a plastic mug and forget to ensure the coil cannot melt through the side while you are in heavy traffic.

Remember that most of these will take higher current when cold, and will roll off as they warm up. You may measure 5A when they are hot, but I'll bet if you have a good meter that can plot current over time you will find it spikes up at first.
 

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What about these SAE connectors? . . . but they do have wall mountable plugs and adapters for anything you might want.
That's the limitation of the style of Molex connectors we use, they don't wall mount very well although we did manage to replace the cigarette lighter receptacle with our Molex connector in this commercially available combo:



As we noted, there are dozens of connector options . . . most all are better than the fire-breathing cigarette lighter plugs!
 

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You may be squezing to much juice through to small a pipe. You need the correct size power wire. Why don't you run a 12ga wire to the battery?
 

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What about these SAE connectors? I have them on the heated garments for my motorcycle and on battery chargers.
I use them the same way. I think they would be good for connecting small mobile solar panels to a pass-through on the vehicle. Hard for newbies to mess up once they are installed.
 
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