[jrosser1]

I searched, but I couldn't quite find this answer. It's been a long day and I probably missed it so don't yell at me :crying:!

Anyway I want to stick a step into my factory installed trailer hitch, but the ParkSense will for sure yell at me about it. Rather than unplugging things, or the ingenious foam disks of z120pi, I thought maybe I could make a dummy plug with maybe a couple of jumpers and plug it into my trailer wiring harness to trick it into thinking I have a trailer hooked up, and disable the PAM ParkSense business.

Any ideas on if this will work, and if so, how would I do it?

 

[thebassoutlaw]

It seems they make a little cheap tester plug for like $1.99 that just plugs in to the trailer harness, that may do it

 

[jrosser1]

By Jove! That might work! Here's one at HF for 4 bucks: Four way trailer tester.

Thanks, I'll try it!

 

[thebassoutlaw]

Be sure to let us know!

 

[Phranc]

I use a Reese TowPower hitch step... it does NOT set off my ParkSense system.


I have an aftermarket hitch which I use with a homemade kayak carrier... my kayak carrier sets off my ParkSense but the Reese TowPower step does not. I researched a method to bypass the ParkSense but realized it was easier to ignore the idiot light than mess up my CANBUS wiring. One of the other PM Forum members provided the attached ParkSense wiring diagram... I wasn't able to figure it out... if you can engineer a simple solution, please share. Good luck!

PS: I wasn't able to get the foam solution to work for me... I probably had the wrong density foam.

 

[JohnnyRambles]

I searched, but I couldn't quite find this answer. It's been a long day and I probably missed it so don't yell at me :crying:!

Anyway I want to stick a step into my factory installed trailer hitch, but the ParkSense will for sure yell at me about it. Rather than unplugging things, or the ingenious foam disks of z120pi, I thought maybe I could make a dummy plug with maybe a couple of jumpers and plug it into my trailer wiring harness to trick it into thinking I have a trailer hooked up, and disable the PAM ParkSense business.

Any ideas on if this will work, and if so, how would I do it?

Is plugging in a trailer supposed to disable the Parksense function? Because it doesn't do so on my 2015. I've only towed my trailer with it a few times so far, so I hadn't got around to looking into it, but mine beeps and annoys the crap out of me while I'm backing up.

 

[thebassoutlaw]

Is plugging in a trailer supposed to disable the Parksense function? Because it doesn't do so on my 2015. I've only towed my trailer with it a few times so far, so I hadn't got around to looking into it, but mine beeps and annoys the crap out of me while I'm backing up.

I thought it was supposed to with the factory towing harness...

 

[ShaunB]

By Jove! That might work! Here's one at HF for 4 bucks: Four way trailer tester.

Thanks, I'll try it!

After reading this thread I thought, hey I could use one of those plug testers and promptly bought one. I tried it last night to see if it would disable the parksense, NO it still beeps. Oh well, there goes $7 CAD . At least I know my wiring harness works. I have the factory hitch BTW.

 

[Wowbagger]

Is plugging in a trailer supposed to disable the Parksense function? Because it doesn't do so on my 2015. I've only towed my trailer with it a few times so far, so I hadn't got around to looking into it, but mine beeps and annoys the crap out of me while I'm backing up.

If you have the factory tow harness, there's a module behind the aft right panel in the rig that controls the tow lights. It has a wire that needs to be plugged into a connector to allow it to disable the Parksense when it detects lights on the hitch.

I found that information on this board at one time, but I've been unable to locate it to put the link in this post.

 

[LarryK]

One of the other PM Forum members provided the attached ParkSense wiring diagram... I wasn't able to figure it out... if you can engineer a simple solution, please share. Good luck!

The wiring diagram is just the power distribution. It only shows how the Park Assist Module gets 12 volts, does not show any other connections like the sensor or the connection to the trailer lights module or the can buss, etc.

http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=46089&d=1518746784

 

[jrosser1]

Update: Finally made it to Harbor Freight -- gotta love that place, bought a trailer test plug for $4 and a pack of nicd batteries for $5.50, got a free magnetic tool strip and an LED light, had two 20% off coupons and walked out for under 10 bucks including Illinois' gouge tax!

But I digress, tried out the test plug (which worked) and then test PAM with my hitch steps... No Soap!!! Still hollers at me.

Next step is to try the advice from Wowbagger, above. Going to a chili dog party tonight, so I will check out the wiring harness tomorrow.

 

[Wowbagger]

It may be that the test plug isn't enough of a load - if it is like my test plug, it's just a few LEDs with no additional load resistors, so the vehicle sees about a 1kΩ load, which is probably not enough to trip the sensor.

You may need to make a plug with something more like some 10Ω 10W wirewound resistors to act like a real light, or you may end up actually putting a set of trailer lights on your carrier (which may not be a bad idea anyway, as this would allow better visibility).

Or, you may not have the wire plugged in yet. If it weren't such a pain to dig into that area I would take pictures of what I did; but I'd have to pull a bunch of insulation out of the way, etc.

 

[jrosser1]

If it weren't such a pain to dig into that area I would take pictures of what I did; but I'd have to pull a bunch of insulation out of the way, etc.

I have not yet insulated the back. I have off both rear panels, and under the left I see the ParkSense module (P68185968AD) and behind the right panel is the Module-Lighting Control (68229650AD).
I assume you mean the Module-Lighting Control. So I would bring that unit out, open it and check for... what?

Or am I on the wrong track?

 

[Wowbagger]

I have not yet insulated the back. I have off both rear panels, and under the left I see the ParkSense module (P68185968AD) and behind the right panel is the Module-Lighting Control (68229650AD).
I assume you mean the Module-Lighting Control. So I would bring that unit out, open it and check for... what?

Or am I on the wrong track?

If it is like my unit, coming off the trailer lighting control module will be a green and ??blue?? (I don't remember) striped wire that goes nowhere, with a label on it saying something like "Park Sense disable". This needs to be inserted into the ParkSense module's plug at a specific point - I just don't recall which position. That allows the Trailer LCM to inform the ParkSense when it sees a load on the trailer plug.

<edit> - Hot ****, I found the message:
http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=233169&postcount=2

 

[Rich Maund]

I have one of these in my rear hitch all the time so I can step into the back easier.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hitch-extender-with-step-97685.html

They often go on sale for $15 and then you can still apply a 20% coupon. I put a couple strips of non skid tape on it. I like it well enough. Doesn't set off the park sensors.

As a bonus, if anyone rear ends me they'll lose their radiator! I did add some retro reflective red/white tape to mine to make it more visible.

 

[GapRunr]

I would suspect that the OP has that wire already connected as his hitch was from the Factory, and the reason it still sets it off is that it doesn't see the required load to believe that there is a trailer attached. I'm not sure how you tell it there is a trailer attached though. If I had a trailer attached and all the lights were off, how would it know?

 

[jrosser1]

If I had a trailer attached and all the lights were off, how would it know?

I was thinking the same thing... It reminds me of the old joke about the thermos: It keeps hot liquids hot and cold liquids cold -- How do it know?

I will check the plug on my PAM in a bit and let ya'll know.

 

[GapRunr]

I was thinking the same thing... It reminds me of the old joke about the thermos: It keeps hot liquids hot and cold liquids cold -- How do it know?

The version of that joke I always use is the guy who says he has a really amazing bottle, and it keeps hot things hot and cold things cold. His buddy looks at it and asks what he has inside the bottle. "A cup of coffee and a scoop of ice cream!"

I was speaking with the owner of a thermos company at a fund raiser I was a part of, and their company marketing was the usual "It keeps hot things hot AND cold things cold better than any other insulated bottle". I asked if it should be "OR" instead of "AND" and when I told him the bit about the coffee and ice cream he kind of stared out in the void and wondered why none of the marketing people picked up on before it went to print.

 

[phil]

Am I missing something?

Doesn't ParkSense turn on when you put it in reverse? if that's true your foot should be on the brake and the trailer brake lights are on, ParkSense see the added electrical load and deactivates?

The dealer is supposed to be able to filter the sensor field of view.

 

[jrosser1]

Am I missing something?

Doesn't ParkSense turn on when you put it in reverse? if that's true your foot should be on the brake and the trailer brake lights are on, ParkSense see the added electrical load and deactivates?

The dealer is supposed to be able to filter the sensor field of view.

Good theory, Phil. Maybe tomorrow I'll get off my lazy chair and go hook up my actual trailer! Then we'll all know whether plugging in a trailer disables my ParkSense. If it doesn't, then I can make my dealer fix it. If it does disable it, then we'll know that the theory about the trailer tester not drawing enough current is the winner.