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I just put my pump on the drivers side, it doesn't fit perfect but its fits. Having the cargo version is good for this as there is no way for it to slide back, with the pass model you'll need some velcro and it will never move.
You'll need ford removal keys to remove the head unit or you can get creative with 4 pieces of coat hanger. Its pretty simple removal, just don't get crazy and bend the tabs out too far or it wont sit flush when you put it back in.
I somehow doubt 8" speakers will fit in the doors, if you need a guinea pig I'll gladly tackle the door panels and show everyone whats inside, its sort of my job to rip cars apart and put them back together again without extra screws. Its one of the few things I haven't taken a look at.
I have the nav unit in mine,so that will stay,but those garbage speakers have to go.I have the base turned up all the way,plus the loudness contour on.If the crossovers are built into the unit,I'm hosed.But if they are just crap speakers,then there's hope.
 

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I don't think its the speakers, my boss has a PM and his sounds like garbage too,even with upgraded speakers. There are ways around it, but its not a quick fix like swapping speakers.
 

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I tend to think it will not make much of a difference just swapping speakers also, but would love to hear otherwise. I noticed a drawback on boosting the bass and turning on the loudness (mostly the bass) that people I talk to on the phone are not as clear as when I had the bass at zero.
 

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I tend to think it will not make much of a difference just swapping speakers also, but would love to hear otherwise. I noticed a drawback on boosting the bass and turning on the loudness (mostly the bass) that people I talk to on the phone are not as clear as when I had the bass at zero.
I have my bass up full,and the loudness on,but in truth I hadn't noticed any difficulty in understanding who I'm talking too due to the bass,as little as 'maximum' is,lol.
 

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I have my bass up full,and the loudness on,but in truth I hadn't noticed any difficulty in understanding who I'm talking too due to the bass,as little as 'maximum' is,lol.
Maybe because I had mine at zero for the first few weeks I noticed the difference. I mean it was default up until last week and it just seems like the phone contacts were a little more muffled, no biggie just what I thought since the bass change. I'm game for swapping the speakers if I can get a recommend on a good pair.
 

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Took the door apart guys, wasn't impressed with what I saw. Pictures and a quick how-to soon to follow when I get a chance.
 

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Precursor:
Dark parking garage around 10pm, so give me a break on the pictures
****Roll your window down!!!*****
1.Sail panel, pull vertically, held in with metal clips
1-2.Remove two #2 philips bits on the exterior of the door, one on the top and one on the bottom, they are pretty obvious and there are only two
2.door hinge/window trim, held in with 2 T40 bits, under the removable covers.
The one under the door handle/lock-unlock is a bit of a pain to get out, a pick tool is recommended here.
3.Backside of trim, unplug power window switch and pull off door latch mechanism.
4. Another T40 holding the door panel onto the door
4-2. Pull door card/panel from the bottom side, there are numerous clips holding this panel on. A "panel popper" tool is recommended, more than likely you'll break a clip or two, they are common to get and cheap, don't fret.
Top of the panel hooks into a channel at the top of the window seal, this is a royal PITA to get back in if the window is not down, like literally you can't get it in.
By far the hardest step in re-assembly
5.Sealed up nicely, impressed with this actually. Speaker riveted in, drill them out or cut the foam away and remove the speaker and bracket with three 8MM head head bolts.
6.The most piddly 5 1/4" speaker ever. Note the extreme angle of the baffle. Its sitting on its magnet but in the door its crazy angled forwards.
If you aren't concerned about keeping these one could cut the plastic baffle off at the base and use it as a template for something new.
7.Empty hole, room for a decent size magnet, bracket will accept a 6.5" with some simple modifications.

P.S
Do not attempt to remove the grille on the outside, not only is it very difficult to pull off, its also very difficult to put back in and you don't get any access to the speaker.
 

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Backside of the door panel is pretty crazy, very sturdy. You can see where the top of the door has to fit into the channel
there is an insane amount of room inside this thing, yes you could make a secret compartment in here.
The bottle bumpouts could've been a lot larger.
Seriously not impressed with the speaker, has very little excursion. The backside of the metal baffle that holds the speaker to the door is open, this is not an ideal setup at all.I will try some duct sealant around the baffle to seal up the huge hole and see if bass response improves. Ideal and Gardener Bender sell this stuff, can be had at most local home centres. Common trick to kill resonances and seal holes used in the car audio world for guys who actually give a rip about their setup.
If anyone knows what that random harness at the top of the door is please let us know, I probed all the wires for voltage and couldn't get anything. Im guessing its for power mirrors but I didn't get that option on my PMC.
 

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Wow,that is a nasty little speaker.What are you going to replace them with? Are you going to stay with 5 1/4 or go bigger? I have the 6 speaker system,I have the wagon,just more junk speakers to replace...sigh..
 

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I wouldn't upgrade the rears, they are so far away you'll never hear them up front. Honestly, i'll probably just buy the duct sealer and leave them stock. Maybe do a few car audio secrets that I've learned in my many years of this hobby....>:D
Unless someone throws some 6.5's on my lap, then I would toss them in.
Test and tune as they say.
If i really wanted to dump some time into it:
6.5" components, mounted in stock locations. Fiberglass sealed pod behind the door panel for maximum bass results and some sort of digital signal processor W/amplifier built in, JBL MS8, Audison, blah blah...the list is long. Then it would probably sound pretty decent.
Probably looking at around $1000+ for that setup though and a good amount of man hours.
 

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These of the speakers that you want to put in the front you will need to re-drilled the mounting holes. also buy a the brackets. After you've purchased that you definitely want to get an amplifier for this radio and speakers get a digital at less 1000 W. JL Audio's Evolution C2 Series speakers bring precision sound to your vehicle. They'll reproduce subtle elements of your music like delicate woodwinds or soprano vocals, then turn on a dime to deliver the deep thrum of the bass or thunder of the drums.
 

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I think I will just go with quality replacement speakers,done by a good auto stereo shop,and call it good.My hearing isn't what it used to be,so dumping mass quantities of money into a car stereo isn't that important.Just something a bit better and I will be happy.
 

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If you guys are unsure I would recommend just visiting a few local stereo shops and getting some advice and trying to demo some speakers. I can't tell you what you'll like or wont like, audio is subjective and only you can decide what you like, thats just how the ball rolls. Of course someone out there will tell you X brand is better than Y brand. Budget is usually the ultimate decider though.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I asked the local shop. He'd never seen a PMC, never heard it's audio, didn't bother to listen to it when I drove it up. He said without listening to it, that he would be happy to sell me speakers but all it really needed was an under-seat subwoofer. I have not been back. I think a sub is a good thing but... it has other issues.
 

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I asked the local shop. He'd never seen a PMC, never heard it's audio, didn't bother to listen to it when I drove it up. He said without listening to it, that he would be happy to sell me speakers but all it really needed was an under-seat subwoofer. I have not been back. I think a sub is a good thing but... it has other issues.
a subwoofer does do wonders for a stock system.
Im gonna add a 'powered' subwoofer and hang it up in the corner in the back. Already swapped the fronts and not a whole lot of difference, to my ears anyways..
good luck
 

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a subwoofer does do wonders for a stock system.
Im gonna add a 'powered' subwoofer and hang it up in the corner in the back. Already swapped the fronts and not a whole lot of difference, to my ears anyways..
good luck
What did you use for the front speakers?
 

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Im sorry, but i put JBL's 6 and a halfs in the regular Promaster..
But.. the subwoofer idea is a go for both our vehicles.
 

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I asked the local shop. He'd never seen a PMC, never heard it's audio, didn't bother to listen to it when I drove it up. He said without listening to it, that he would be happy to sell me speakers but all it really needed was an under-seat subwoofer. I have not been back. I think a sub is a good thing but... it has other issues.
Sorry to hear that, usually those guys work off commission and don't really care too much about the sound, only the deal.
There are quite a few under seat powered subwoofers, unfortunately they arent very good compared to a real one.
sonicelectronix.com and onlinecarstereo.com are two of my go to sites for seeing whats out there.
If you can find one the old infinity basslinks were pretty ballsy for their size and packed quite a punch:http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_372_Infinity-BassLink.html ( out of stock ATM)
The " low profile" ones are all the same quality and won't break the bank like the JL/Kicker/Alpine models.Go cheap, but not too cheap!

Installation can be done by any shop, if you didn't like the first guy there is always another.

Sorry for the off topic, but perhaps others were considering an under seat or powered subwoofer instead of new speakers
 
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