Designing a "Modular Best Value" Camper Van...

7ztds115 · 2023-03-20

This is an Excel (3 Images) with Pics, and PN's. Buy a Ram Promaster 115 High Roof Cargo Van used with maybe 50K to 100K Mi., build it out, and then keep "Most All" of your Camper required Parts for the NEXT Promaster Cargo Van. P.V. 1: Top image P.V. 2 Middle image P.V. 3 Bottom image

R

RobPromaster

· #2 · 2 mo ago

Good to plan.
I made changes on the fly, still not complete.
Consider. a composting terlet, no shower, Lithium battery with your own design electrical, Ironman drawers under the bed, Dometic refer on a slide. Still no heater but I like the Chinese barking diesel the most.

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7ztds115

Discussion Starter · #3 · 2 mo ago

2

Modular, Mobile, and Less than 65 Lbs. Camper Van equipment (as examples, Solar Generator or Dometic Fridge/Freezer) in my mind is the goal. A Bluetti (or Jackery) 800Watt, 2000Watt, or 3000Watt, with foldout Solar Panels (2'x8'), will be the Mobile Foldout when you need them is a good way to go.

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RV8R

· #4 · 2 mo ago

7ztds115 said:
Modular, Mobile, and Less than 65 Lbs. Camper Van equipment (as examples, Solar Generator or Dometic Fridge/Freezer) in my mind is the goal. A Bluetti (or Jackery) 800Watt, 2000Watt, or 3000Watt, with foldout Solar Panels (2'x8'), will be the Mobile Foldout when you need them is a good way to go.

That might be the way for you to go. Those “Bluetti” or Other units have different performance specifications & one of the most important specs can be the ability to charge them up while on the road. They seem to have different rates of charge & some of those rates can be very slow if you intend to charge by Van alternator. The other spec to watch for is standby battery drain ,,, just having the unit on, but not using any power how many hours can it last?

We just have 250Ahr AGM batteries (about 3000 Whr) & charge by alternator. Our charge rate depends how drained the batteries are, but we typically see 30 to 60 amps ,,, that and the voltage varies on the SOC, but typically 400W to 900W.

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7ztds115

Discussion Starter · #5 · 2 mo ago

RV8R said:
That might be the way for you to go. Those “Bluetti” or Other units have different performance specifications & one of the most important specs can be the ability to charge them up while on the road. They seem to have different rates of charge & some of those rates can be very slow if you intend to charge by Van alternator. The other spec to watch for is standby battery drain ,,, just having the unit on, but not using any power how many hours can it last?

We just have 250Ahr AGM batteries (about 3000 Whr) & charge by alternator. Our charge rate depends how drained the batteries are, but we typically see 30 to 60 amps ,,, that and the voltage varies on the SOC, but typically 400W to 900W.

View attachment 95018

Thank you, this is excellent. I will have to review this closely to understand it. My initial thoughts were to NOT MOUNT anything permanent (I do not have a Promaster or final Design/Build).

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RV8R

· #6 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

7ztds115 said:
Thank you, this is excellent. I will have to review this closely to understand it. My initial thoughts were to NOT MOUNT anything permanent (I do not have a Promaster or final Design/Build).

Bluetti & “Alike” typically consist of;

1) Batteries
2) Chargers
3) Inverter
4) Outlet Ports for distributing 120vac & 12vdc

“Mounting” equipment “permanent” or not ,,, You still will be considering your Buletti “mounted down” or not. And then there are “all the things you want the Bluetti to run ,,, what are those & will they all be “non-mounted items”?

IMO, before buying a Bluetti, I would list all the electrical items I would want to run on electrical under 2 categories;

120vac
12vdc

In my builds all my 12vdc electrical appliances are;

1 Awning
2 Bed LED
3 Rear USB
4 Water Pump
5 Fridge
6 Furnace
7 Main LED
8 Roof Fan
9 Kitchen USB
10 Drivers USB
11 Kitchen LED & Rear Power

All of these are hard mounted items.

I have been thinking of “modular” builds & how to incorporate that into a build. My thoughts regarding wiring in a cabinet as example would be 12vdc wiring plugs that can take 12 gauge marine grade wire. In the end, if I ever went that route, I would probably wire them with a service loop & disconnect the wires @ the appliance to remove the cabinet.

After removing the majority of my 1st build in about 4 hours, including the entire electrical system, I have rethought modular. For me I do not believe it is the way to go, unless I was constantly removing the build. Took me 6 months to build out that van ( the 1st one ) & we had the majority of it stripped in about 4 hours.

So if salvage is the reason you want “modular”, I think you are ok to “build in place” with removable fasteners.

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larry barello

· #7 · 2 mo ago

Similar to @RV8R : I built mine "modular" but only in the sense that each module could be removed in an hour or less after removing fasteners and disconnecting wires or plumbing although the distribution wires and pipes are buried so semi-permanent. I think I could have it all stripped in four hours. Indeed, for some bodywork I had to strip one side and it only took an hour to remove the bed, holding tank/pump/filter and floor to ceiling refer/microwave cabinet.

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7ztds115

Discussion Starter · #8 · 2 mo ago

larry barello said:
Similar to @RV8R : I built mine "modular" but only in the sense that each module could be removed in an hour or less after removing fasteners and disconnecting wires or plumbing although the distribution wires and pipes are buried so semi-permanent. I think I could have it all stripped in four hours. Indeed, for some bodywork I had to strip one side and it only took an hour to remove the bed, holding tank/pump/filter and floor to ceiling refer/microwave cabinet.

Excellent........

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7ztds115

Discussion Starter · #9 · 2 mo ago

RV8R said:
Bluetti & “Alike” typically consist of;

1) Batteries
2) Chargers
3) Inverter
4) Outlet Ports for distributing 120vac & 12vdc

“Mounting” equipment “permanent” or not ,,, You still will be considering your Buletti “mounted down” or not. And then there are “all the things you want the Bluetti to run ,,, what are those & will they all be “non-mounted items”?

IMO, before buying a Bluetti, I would list all the electrical items I would want to run on electrical under 2 categories;

120vac
12vdc

In my builds all my 12vdc electrical appliances are;

1 Awning
2 Bed LED
3 Rear USB
4 Water Pump
5 Fridge
6 Furnace
7 Main LED
8 Roof Fan
9 Kitchen USB
10 Drivers USB
11 Kitchen LED & Rear Power

All of these are hard mounted items.

I have been thinking of “modular” builds & how to incorporate that into a build. My thoughts regarding wiring in a cabinet as example would be 12vdc wiring plugs that can take 12 gauge marine grade wire. In the end, if I ever went that route, I would probably wire them with a service loop & disconnect the wires @ the appliance to remove the cabinet.

After removing the majority of my 1st build in about 4 hours, including the entire electrical system, I have rethought modular. For me I do not believe it is the way to go, unless I was constantly removing the build. Took me 6 months to build out that van ( the 1st one ) & we had the majority of it stripped in about 4 hours.

So if salvage is the reason you want “modular”, I think you are ok to “build in place” with removable fasteners.

Agree, I bought the Bluetti ($560) for the Condo and planned on running my Bodega Freezer/Refrigerator ($340) with it. They make a 2000Watt as well for more money.

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7ztds115

Discussion Starter · #10 · 2 mo ago

5

Pics of Off-Road Style ProMaster Vans. A 115 Model, at 8' x 18' is probably the most versatile Van available today. How ever it would be very cool to get a Bunker Van, at 8' x 17' and 4 Wheel Drive is awesome, check out the link! Looking for an inexpensive sink, the pic below is an excellent choice.

BUNKERVAN Freemund 4x4 camper PEUGEOT BOXER L1H2

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Baxsie

· #11 · 2 mo ago

Traction boards, decent tires, a shovel, a Winch-2-Go, a recovery strap, and a tree saver . . . that is about as "off road" as you can make a ProMaster.

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7ztds115

Discussion Starter · #12 · 2 mo ago

Baxsie said:
Traction boards, decent tires, a shovel, a Winch-2-Go, a recovery strap, and a tree saver . . . that is about as "off road" as you can make a ProMaster.

I agree, it would be nice to have a 4x4 but not needed 90% of the time. Good suggestion, I will have to add a Winch-2-Go in my list.

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