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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. I did a quick post and found nothing...

So I'm back on the road, I plug in a new small inverter to the 12v cigarette lighter, and nothing. I plug it into the back one and it works (where it now sits charging my electric toothbrush).

Any ideas?
 

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Get a battery operated toothbrush and a handful of AA’s?>:D
What does the manual say about that socket? CANBUS probably sees too much draw and shuts it off.
 

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Now be nice, RD. We installed a 3,000 watt sine wave inverter to run our electric toothbrush!
Does it get right down between the teeth? Any enamel left? What grit polishing compound do you use and is it fluoridated?
 

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'16 2500 159 HT Granite Window - OH(io)
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The dash mounted 12v lighter outlet only works when the ignition is on. Not sure about the rear outlet.
 

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Same for the rear. This is another thing that should be configurable by the owner like our phones when we set them up. The OP might plug in something with an LED to see if it is now on. The problem may be the inverter.
 
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It may also be the socket up front. Ours only works with phone chargers. Haven't tried the rear much, only enough to realize both only work with ignition on. HOWEVER, the USB port on the drivers side seems to work with the ignition off, albeit a lower power at any time, than the USB on the passenger side dash.

Since we put in the inverter, we just don't need 12V charging much. Hence, we use 110v battery chargers for our tools (which barely register a draw w/two running at the same time), running off of the inverter and second Optima battery at any given time, ignition on or off. Heavy draws (saws and vacuums) are limited to Optima draw only, which is isolated from the vehicle's electrics when the ignition is off. If we use too much juice, we stop and start the van and charge the Optima, and that has rarely happened. The Optima is impressive. Point is, after other vehicles with the inverter direct to vehicle battery, I can't say how much more happy I am with the system we rigged in the Promaster with the Optima.

Off topic a bit, I know, hope some was helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, I initially had a small inverter that I bought from a truck stop which I used to keep my cellphone charged while running gps routing in lieu of a garmin (can't stand the tom tom that's included with the u-connect 5 because it doesn't show elevation or my current speed, but I digress). Eventually, that small 100w or so inverter started running really loudly, then it stopped working altogether. I figured it had just died so I upgraded to a slightly bigger 300w one with better reviews on Amazon, along with quieter running and a digital readout that shows how much watts it's putting out. When I plugged it in I discovered that it was the socket that was dead, not my new inverter as it works fine in the rear socket.

Anyways, I suppose I'll see if I have another 12v something or other to test with. Worst case scenario I'll just drop it off for warranty work. Just didn't want to waste my time if it were a simple little fix like "yeah you moron, replace the 10amp fuse in the fuse box labeled cig lighter."
 

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When I plugged it in I discovered that it was the socket that was dead, not my new inverter as it works fine in the rear socket.

It is not s urprising to hear of your problem . . . we've discovered that there's no uniformity in the design of the mating plugs and sockets and often the ground tab on the side of the plug does not reliably engage its counterpart in the socket, or, the plug has to be carefully inserted/rotated to make that connection. Add to that the unreliability of most cheap cigarette lighter plug center, spring-loaded pins . . . often, with the slightest resistance, these plugs overheat, melt, burn, ahh the odor of super hot bakelite . . .

In the end, we dumped the cigarette interface in favor of simple two pin Molex connectors. Others on this forum have used connectors specifically designed for the automotive industry. We actually cut all of our cigarette plugs off, but did not discard them. Instead, we placed mating Molex connectors on them so that we could restore the original cigarette plug functionality should we need to use these power cords in other vehicles. Incidentally, while rewiring, we tied-in to a source of 'always on' (not ignition dependent) power.
 

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'16 2500 159 HT Granite Window - OH(io)
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Anyways, I suppose I'll see if I have another 12v something or other to test with. Worst case scenario I'll just drop it off for warranty work. Just didn't want to waste my time if it were a simple little fix like "yeah you moron, replace the 10amp fuse in the fuse box labeled cig lighter."
FCA is not good about providing electrical schematics and such. I can get a Factory Service Manual for my 2013 Fiat 500 for $100 + , but it doesn't include the wiring diagram!
However, the 2014 Ram Promaster Upfitters site does have some of the wiring information. The front and rear 12 volt ports are supplied by separate fuses located in the Power Distribution Center under the hood, drivers side kind of underneath the brake master cylinder. There are all kind of fuses and relays there. An 8mm socket is needed to remove the cover. The lighter fuse is a 20 Amp, try F14.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The front and rear 12 volt ports are supplied by separate fuses located in the Power Distribution Center under the hood, drivers side kind of underneath the brake master cylinder. There are all kind of fuses and relays there. An 8mm socket is needed to remove the cover. The lighter fuse is a 20 Amp, try F14.
Larry,

That was the solution. Thank you! There was even a spare 20amp fuse there.

I started up my vehicle, plugged my new inverter into the cigarette lighter, and it worked! And then, just as quickly, my feelings soured as I got a new message on my center console. "DEF needs service, see dealer." Sheesh, that diesel of mine just turned 10,000 miles old and this is my 2nd DEF dealer servicing. Oh well, it's off to the dealers I go.

Many thanks to you though non the less!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, moron was an apt description for myself after all.

Turns out the spare 20amp fuse so conveniently placed in the fuse box wasn't a spare after all. It belonged to the def nox sensor and threw the def code after I foolishly removed. That mistake cost me $160 in dealer diagnostics. Apparently the warranty doesn't cover moroniclly induced troubles.

Life is beautiful, life goes on, and it's time to go play again.
 

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That's great! That's probably something I'd do: Open up the fuse box and say "hey, that was so nice that they gave me all these extra fuses" and start borrowing. I did something similar once with my furnace in an old house. $75 service call later to discover was something really simple. That was a long time ago so $75 <> = $160
 

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This mod has been discussed many, many times and there are basically three options.

1. Cut the positive feed wire and connect it into a non switched fuse on the fuse panel
2. Cut the wire and wire it (the positive wire) directly to the battery (starting or house) with a fuse in the line
3. Add a whole new usb & power (lighter plug) circuit.

I recommend doing both # 2 & 3

proeddie has a very well documented write up here that anyone should be able to follow without any experience at all!

http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35482
http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64890

And, another one
http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46617
 
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