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Hey,

I’m trying to run a Renogy 40A 12V DC-DC charger for my camper conversion. It’s literally the last part of my entire build. I’ve connected it to the battery already the only thing is that it requires “trigger” signal from the ignition so that it only turns on when the engine is running. I’ve read up a bit about connecting it to the ignition or to a 12v source such as the cigarette lighter but I honestly have no idea how to go about doing this. Any links to detailed instructions or anything at all really would be incredibly helpful.
Thanks!
 

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2018 136 HR Ont.
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570 Posts
I used a wire tap to connect to the power wire of the cig lighter. In my van the wire is grey.

66512
 

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2014-159 HR in CT
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To expand on 83's picture...

First, lift out the cup holders... I seem to recall a few screws under there. The big cover under the dash is attached with 2 screws under small pop out plastic covers. Then just grab it where you can and yank it off the mounting clips that hold it in place.

You will see the wires going to the USB and van-on 12V outlet in the upper right corner.... easy to spot.

Technically it's not and engine-running source, but an ACC or RUN key position power source. Should be OK as long as the unit doesn't mind kicking on if you have the van in ACC.
 

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2018 136 HR Ont.
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Good point. I think there is a screw under mat in the cup holder beside the cig lighter socket.
 

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2018 2500 159-HR
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Is this necessary for the Renology DC-DC unit? I ask because I hooked up an Abso (Kisae) DMT-1250 DC-DC charger, and it seems to sense when the engine is running (based on current sink and loads, if I'm interpreting the manual correctly). There is a "control" input that can optionally be wired to an ignition signal, but it appears to change the charging profile more aggressively (again, if I'm reading the manual right), and says it's designed for "smart alternators" (whatever those are).
 

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2017 136” HR
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Is this necessary for the Renology DC-DC unit? I ask because I hooked up an Abso (Kisae) DMT-1250 DC-DC charger, and it seems to sense when the engine is running (based on current sink and loads, if I'm interpreting the manual correctly). There is a "control" input that can optionally be wired to an ignition signal, but it appears to change the charging profile more aggressively (again, if I'm reading the manual right), and says it's designed for "smart alternators" (whatever those are).
I am planning on getting the Kisae DMT-1250. How long have you had it and are you happy with it?
 

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2018 2500 159-HR
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I am planning on getting the Kisae DMT-1250. How long have you had it and are you happy with it?
I've only had it working about a month, but it was easy to configure with clear instructions (2x Battle Born 100 Ah LifePO). I haven't set up any solar yet (future-proofing), but it seems to pull 30 Amps off the alternator when the engine runs, and I plan to experiment with the settings to see if I can pull that higher. I tapped into the 70A upfitter voltage wire with 70A fuse off the battery. I've not wired the "Control" input from the ignition (don't see the need).

Happy so far, but I'll certainly post on this forum if that changes.
 

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2018 159 High Roof gas, BC, Canada
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2018 159 High Roof gas, BC, Canada
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1,404 Posts
In my prototype build, I simply hooked the Renogy's control input to the "+" on the battery and controlled it via a switch. But it was not an optimal solution because if you forgot the switch was on, it could theoretically drain the starter battery if the engine was off. My switch had an LED light but despite this, I still left the switch on when I went into a grocery store for a while. Nothing bad happened because I wasn't gone long but I was unhappy with myself.

A good-enough solution is tapping into the cig lighter circuit. When I remove the ignition key, power to the cig lighter would be cut and so would be the output from the DC-DC even if I had left my installed DC-DC switch on.

But there is the possibility of leaving the ignition key on the "RUN" / "ACC" position (e.g. to listen to the radio) and if the manual DC-DC switch is on, it could drain the battery.

Pin 2 of the upfitter's connection looks interesting.

66559


I'm not that great with electronics but, to me, it suggests that a wire connected to it will be pulled to ground when, critically, the engine is running. This solves the situation where the user accidentally leaves a user-installed DC-DC control switch in the on position. However, the input of the Renogy DC-DC charger is expecting a "+" signal, not a signal pulled to ground.

The novice electronics guy in me thinks that a relay on pin 2 that controls a line from Battery "+" to the Renogy's control input would address this situation.

Perhaps the OP, who I believe wants to do RV conversions for a living, might investigate this (for me! :) ) since customers could do crazy things like leave a DC-DC charger on all the time and potentially drain the starter battery.
 

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2018 159 High Roof gas, BC, Canada
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Pin 2 with a low current coil would work, but be careful of the load... 300ma is not much current and it probably is fed from some expensive electronics board that you don't want to fry...
Good point! I think I'll stick with the cig lighter line. :)
 

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I used the interior fuse panel and put an add-a-fuse onto the power side-view mirrors and ran the signal wire from there. Also have that inline with a switch so that I can turn it off even when the car is on if I'm ever so inclined. Easy enough.
 

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Hey,

I’m trying to run a Renogy 40A 12V DC-DC charger for my camper conversion. It’s literally the last part of my entire build. I’ve connected it to the battery already the only thing is that it requires “trigger” signal from the ignition so that it only turns on when the engine is running. I’ve read up a bit about connecting it to the ignition or to a 12v source such as the cigarette lighter but I honestly have no idea how to go about doing this. Any links to detailed instructions or anything at all really would be incredibly helpful.
Thanks!
Buy the connector for the B pillar wiring connector and add the one terminal .CE connectivity has them youll need a real wiring connector crimper but you can use a good one to make your solar cable crimps as well.
 

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Hey,

I’m trying to run a Renogy 40A 12V DC-DC charger for my camper conversion. It’s literally the last part of my entire build. I’ve connected it to the battery already the only thing is that it requires “trigger” signal from the ignition so that it only turns on when the engine is running. I’ve read up a bit about connecting it to the ignition or to a 12v source such as the cigarette lighter but I honestly have no idea how to go about doing this. Any links to detailed instructions or anything at all really would be incredibly helpful.
Thanks!
Buy the connector for the B pillar wiring connector and add the one terminal .CE connectivity has them youll need a real wiring connector crimper but you can use a good one to make your solar cable crimps as well.
do you have the rear cigarette lighter innthe left rear pillar ...its useless if your building a conversion ..its a great B+ terminal 15 for key on power
 

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there is a upfitter connector option behind the passenger seat belt lower trim ..you can install a b+ bus board and supply power to a lot of stuff . i just finished installing a vivair onboard air system and it supplies 50 amps supplied by a mega fuse
 

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All newly registered members MUST make an introductory post in the Introductory Post Forum as per forum rules. "Promasterforum.com Introduction Section " Please be aware until you do make the required introductory post any posts you make may be deleted
I've only had it working about a month, but it was easy to configure with clear instructions (2x Battle Born 100 Ah LifePO). I haven't set up any solar yet (future-proofing), but it seems to pull 30 Amps off the alternator when the engine runs, and I plan to experiment with the settings to see if I can pull that higher. I tapped into the 70A upfitter voltage wire with 70A fuse off the battery. I've not wired the "Control" input from the ignition (don't see the need).

Happy so far, but I'll certainly post on this forum if that changes.
I've been looking for some time for this exact scenario. I've got the Renogy 20 Amp DC - DC and was hoping to tap into the upfitter connector but hadn't seen anyone actually confirm they'd done so yet. Lots of people use the 13 pin for the trigger which I did but still wire directly from the battery.

You used the 70 amp fused connections for your DC-DC charger? The Renogy manual states to use a 30 amp fuse for the battery side so I was hoping to tap into that as well, and just add the 30 amp at the B pillar.

I'm surprised this is so little discussed, considering how frequent the situation comes up.
 

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Since my electrical is housed on the driver side in front of the rear wheel well, I split the 4 AWG upfitter positive lead underneath the driver side step, before it heads across to the B pillar:
71049
 

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Since my electrical is housed on the driver side in front of the rear wheel well, I split the 4 AWG upfitter positive lead underneath the driver side step, before it heads across to the B pillar:
View attachment 71049
Did you run your DC-DC negative to the chassis or back to the main battery?
 
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