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2021 Promaster 2500 high roof 136wb in white
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
This is the enclosure to date. I did like using the frp panels. This will be a recirculating shower. Testing in the spring. View attachment 81574
I see in the photo that you lapped the frp board over the lip on the shower base, you did not have a problem getting it to lay flat over the lip?
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I overlapped it to create a water tight joint and use caulking. Before installing the frp board I installed a strip of kerdi band attached to the pan with kerdi fix. I used these materials when I did a recent bathroom renovation
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I overlapped it to create a water tight joint and use caulking. Before installing the frp board I installed a strip of kerdi band attached to the pan with kerdi fix. I used these materials when I did a recent bathroom renovation
That is a fantastic idea and your install looks great! You did not like the fast grab by titebond? That is what I have and had planned to use, I was told the adhesive is out of stock. It is hard to tell by the photo, did you skip the corner moulding and just use caulk?
 

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That is a fantastic idea and your install looks great! You did not like the fast grab by titebond? That is what I have and had planned to use, I was told the adhesive is out of stock. It is hard to tell by the photo, did you skip the corner moulding and just use caulk?
I did not use any corner molding just caulk as I had some difficult angles. In the corners after the adhesive failed, I managed to get some kerdifix behind the panel to adhere the corners. I did waterproof all the corners with kerdiband before putting on the frp panels so I know my installation is waterproof
 

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I installed mine in the deep heat of summer. Maybe that's why there was no expansion or bubbling. Plus the loctite tub surround said it resists cold when fully cured. The one instruction that I followed was, have the panels the same temp as the room they will be installed in by leaving them there for 48 hrs.

I wrestled with whether to install the panels behind the shower pan lip or on top of it. I went with behind it because it was a really tight fit and having it held in place there made it easier to deal with. The instructions said it was a 2-man job, but there was no way two people could maneuver in the small space. Having it held in place really helped a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Thanks for all of the great advice, I picked up the kerdi fix last night so I should be ready to go, I have been keeping a space heater in my garage so the temperature has been 65-70.
 

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Thanks for all of the great advice, I picked up the kerdi fix last night so I should be ready to go, I have been keeping a space heater in my garage so the temperature has been 65-70.
Dont get Kerdi fix on your hands or anywhere else it is very difficult to get off
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I did not use any corner molding just caulk as I had some difficult angles. In the corners after the adhesive failed, I managed to get some kerdifix behind the panel to adhere the corners. I did waterproof all the corners with kerdiband before putting on the frp panels so I know my installation is waterproof
So just to verify, you did not use kerdi thinset, just the kerdi fix adhesive in the tube, did you trowel it out before embedding the kerdi band?
 

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I am starting a project on my spiral staircase in the house, using FRP to block off the end of the treads, so our dogs don't get a base jump with no parachute. Has anyone here tried to bend it using a heat gun? It would just be a bend of 1/2" deep x 3" long. I might need to do that to make the panels fit flush against the square tread tubes that go up to the handrail. Since it has fiberglass in it I am not sure if it will take a bend.

Sorry for the sidetrack......
 

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I am starting a project on my spiral staircase in the house, using FRP to block off the end of the treads, so our dogs don't get a base jump with no parachute. Has anyone here tried to bend it using a heat gun? It would just be a bend of 1/2" deep x 3" long. I might need to do that to make the panels fit flush against the square tread tubes that go up to the handrail. Since it has fiberglass in it I am not sure if it will take a bend.

Sorry for the sidetrack......
frp panels are extremely flexible for large radius bends but I do not think the heat gun will do anything. They panels are stiff and I think unlikely to hold a shape due to the fiberglass
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I overlapped it to create a water tight joint and use caulking. Before installing the frp board I installed a strip of kerdi band attached to the pan with kerdi fix. I used these materials when I did a recent bathroom renovation
Did you spread the kerdi fix over the kerdi band before install or just adhere the perimeter?
 

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a bead of kerdi fix along the shower pan and a few beads as required on the wall. Press the kerdi band into the kerdi fix and use a putty knife or trowel to press the kerdiband into kerdifix and remove any excess. PM me if you have more questions and I can help
 

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I am preparing to cut and install the FRP panels for my shower and was wondering what the best way to cut it would be? It looks easy enough to score and snap but that only works with straight cuts. I have heard that electric sheet metal shears do a good job and was wondering if that is the best way to go. A hole saw will take care of my shower light but my mixer valve requires a square hole that I will cut in the plywood before the FRP install and I will trim it out before I install the valve.
FRP does make good shower walls. Do NOT use shears, as it will just break the panels. Use a circular saw for straight cuts, with a piece of junk plywood directly underneath it, or a jigsaw with a backer board very close to the cut line.
 

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I am preparing to cut and install the FRP panels for my shower and was wondering what the best way to cut it would be? It looks easy enough to score and snap but that only works with straight cuts. I have heard that electric sheet metal shears do a good job and was wondering if that is the best way to go. A hole saw will take care of my shower light but my mixer valve requires a square hole that I will cut in the plywood before the FRP install and I will trim it out before I install the valve.
I've used it commercially on kitchens and used a simple grinder and it worked perfect. I knew I would be using the
FRP for my build out when it time...I still don't have a lot of time but I've been purchasing everything I need so when I'm ready I can just roll through it in a weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I guess that seeing is believing, my brother urged me to use shears and said he would replace any damaged material, maybe a warm environment is the key as my garage was 71°. The shears worked beautifully, I just laid the frp on the concrete floor and
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cut, it was quick and dust free. My gap was a little tight in 2 spots so I was forced to trim 1/16", no problem. You can see just how clean it cut.
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I was just in the van measure up for cabinets and saw that glue on one frp panel has failed completely and has separated from the plywood wall. The temperature the last few days has been -20 to -25 at nights. Looks like I found another job for the spring
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I was just in the van measure up for cabinets and saw that glue on one frp panel has failed completely and has separated from the plywood wall. The temperature the last few days has been -20 to -25 at nights. Looks like I found another job for the spring
I am sorry to hear your shower failed, adhesion with the fastgrab was not great after 24 hours, hoping my last test sample holds up better after 1 week.
 

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I was just in the van measure up for cabinets and saw that glue on one frp panel has failed completely and has separated from the plywood wall. The temperature the last few days has been -20 to -25 at nights. Looks like I found another job for the spring
Not sure if this works as I have just glued my 5mm prefinished upper birch panels to the foil faced polyiso. I started with the trunk liner glue, but it failed to adhere. So I went to the local Lowes to buy some sort of construction adhesive, but they have no large tubes $15 & 3 times the volume if the small tubes @ $12. So while on my way to another store, I thought about how hard “Great Stuff” window & door foam is to scrape off materials. So I did a “U Turn” and tried it out on my 3 panels. It was easy & “seemed” to have worked.

I you do this with FRPs I would use a thick plywood support to press it flat against the FRP while the spray foam sets up.

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I trimmed my edges to the correct dimensions to use the corner trim on the inside corners but decided to omit the corner trim and just caulk the edges, if a leak develops I want to see it, not have it hidden in the folds of the corner trim. I now regret leaving such a large gap on the vertical seams but I had to leave room for the trim I did not install.
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I am hoping to mask next to the caulk lines and try to keep an acceptable appearance. Any advice on the best caulk to use for this purpose?
 
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