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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all!

I recently bought a 2016 PM 2500 159 high top w/ 146k miles(red flag #1) on it for $19k. Carfax had little to no info(red flag #2) and was register in Ohio(red flag #3) and then Pennsylvania(red flag #4). This was going to be the home for my girlfriend and myself but now I am not so sure... We live in Colorado FYI.

After 2 weeks the radiator fan seized and the thing overheated. While the shop tried to take apart the engine to see if it was a head gasket they deemed it was so corroded that an entire engine replacement was due. $11.5K after all was said and done... terrible I know.
Now it has a reman Jasper engine.

Should we attempt to sell or trade it into a dealer and cut our losses or is this rust not that big of a deal and treatable? We owe $23k on it.

Also... any idea what the green liquid in the last picture could be?
 

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The green liquid is anti freeze. I’ve never seen a Promaster with any appreciable amount of rust on it which makes me wonder where yours has been? Is it an empty cargo van or had it been converted?

As for cutting your losses, I have to say you probably paid way too much to start with for this particular van in the condition it was in and even with a new engine you might not recover your original investment back. There are plenty of brand new 159 high cargo vans out there for $32000!
 

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Everything said at this point will be coulda, shoulda, woulda.
It's too bad you didn't join this forum before making a purchase. Everyone would have been happy to start you in the right direction and save you a ton of grief.
This is kinda like going on Web MD and asking what to do a week after eating gas station sushi and getting food poisoning.
I'm confused about the purchase.
Was it a private sale and sold "as is"?
If so, how do you owe $23k on it?
Or, were you able to get a personal bank loan to buy it?
Or, was it bought from a dealership?
In which case, why did you have to spend $12k out of pocket for a new engine and not simply return it to the dealer for a refund?
And lastly,.....why did it cost $12k for a reman'd Chrysler V6????
 

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Right, I'm not expecting to to recoupe my investment. My question was is the rust concerning. Obviously it wasnt the best purchase. But all the mechanics that have seen it so far, 3 independent, 2 commercial dodge mechanics and none said if the rust damage is too far gone to slow down. But to be honest, I no longer trust a mechanic with my vehicle any more than I trust a crack head to hold my $100 bill.

If anyone has a solid dodge mechanic in Colorado I'd love to meet them.
 

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Everything said at this point will be coulda, shoulda, woulda.
It's too bad you didn't join this forum before making a purchase. Everyone would have been happy to start you in the right direction and save you a ton of grief.
This is kinda like going on Web MD and asking what to do a week after eating gas station sushi and getting food poisoning.
I'm confused about the purchase.
Was it a private sale and sold "as is"?
If so, how do you owe $23k on it?
Or, were you able to get a personal bank loan to buy it?
Or, was it bought from a dealership?
In which case, why did you have to spend $12k out of pocket for a new engine and not simply return it to the dealer for a refund?
And lastly,.....why did it cost $12k for a reman'd Chrysler V6????
Agreed, too little to late haha
Dealer purchase "as-is" in Colorado and broke down in Arizona. By the time they dug into the engine to find the source of overheating there was no turning back, there were bolts snapping off and such... heres the invoice...

They probably could have stopped once they realised the radiator fan wasnt working... I'm still dealing with those **** heads. But again... shoulda coulda woulda...
 

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The whole situation just sucks.
For under the van, if there's still a lot of meat left in the metal and only the surface has rusted, you could wire brush off the loose stuff and then paint with a primer made for adhering to rust, or coat with a product like fluid film. Rust is oxidation. Oxygen in water and air is slowly burning the metal. You want to seal it and put a layer of something between the metal and oxygen.
That probably happened from constant road salt and water in Ohio and PA. Probably won't be an issue in CO. But get it cleaned up and coated with something anyway. Even in the dryer climate, it will continue to oxidize.
For anything in the engine bay, maybe clean it up by and hit it with heat paint. Or replace what you can. Just be careful of deteriorated bolts that might snap off.
 
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