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Discussion Starter #1
Need a little help. Cut the hole for the vented front drivers side window today. Made the template. Cut the hole had to grind a few spots that where too tight. Finally got the window in the hole and put on the clamp ring. For some reason I can not get the ring to tighten enough to create a waterproof seal. The template pretty much followed the inner line created by the wall supports except for the corners.


The window is a tight fit vertically in the hole. Is it possible that for the hole to be too tight and interfere with the expansion of the gasket?


Here are a couple of pictures, you can see how far away the window is from the side of the van.




Thanks,
 

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Following. I installed the cr laurance without the vents and mine sticks out like that also. I cannot tighten down the clamp ring all the way around. I think the sheet metalneeds to be cut out more so that it seats better but I’m too chicken to cut anymore. At least I need to take a break from windows and move on for now. Terrible wind noise coming from window also.
 

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Following. I installed the cr laurance without the vents and mine sticks out like that also. I cannot tighten down the clamp ring all the way around. I think the sheet metalneeds to be cut out more so that it seats better but I’m too chicken to cut anymore. At least I need to take a break from windows and move on for now. Terrible wind noise coming from window also.
I wonder if this is a common problem. They advertise their windows as OEM style.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Success

I was able to complete the install today. I did speak with a tech at the company where I purchased the window. He told me that the window frame was not completely inside the hole and to look for spots that seemed too tight, or scrapped spots on the window frame when removed. Grind a little more metal off the hole until the frame is completely in the hole.


He also said drilling pilot holes in the frame would help when tightening the clamp ring to the frame. Since I had the window out of the van, I drilled the pilot holes and then screwed the screws in place. It seemed easier to torque the screws in the first time when lying flat on a table. Then removed the screws.



Anyway, enlarged the hole very slightly in couple of spots that appeared to be rubbing the window frame. Screwed down the clamp ring and could tell that it was a much better fit. After all of the screws where tight, put the hose to it and no leaks. Yes!



The gap between the van body and the window is about 3 quarters.


Thanks,
Larry
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Was able to get the window installed yesterday. I had to grind down some spots in on the van in order to get the window completely set in the hole. I thought it was before but not quite.



I also drilled pilot holes in the frame to make the installation of the screws easier. Since I had the window out of the van, I torqued the screws into the frame. That made re installation much easier when the window was in place
.

Then on to the water test and I was very happy to see no leaks. YES!
 

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I was looking at a customer van today and the lip on the chassis around the perimeter on the driver's side is very narrow compared to the lip on the slider door. Can you post a photo of how and where the clamp ring is positioned on the inside? Our customer indicated that some installers add a ring around the inside to thicken the metal so the clamp ring will pull the outside of the window closer to the van before it bottoms out. We investigating the possibility of CNCing something like that.

Thank you,
Hein
DIYvan
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hope this helps. The cut for the top and bottom of the window followed the line where the ribs were joined to the outside panel. I had originally cut the hole a little short of that line, which was why I had problem getting the window to seal.There was a little more room on the sides. And I had read a post in the forum that the corners did not follow the ribs exactly. For the top, bottom and left side of the window the clamp ring is on the metal where it meets the outside panel. So for most of the way around the window there are two pieces of metal between the window frame and clamp ring For me it was a little off on the right side due to the corners on the van not lining up with the corners on the window.



The clamp ring if very tight to the window. You can not get a fingernail between them.


I hope the pictures help if you need anymore just let me know. And in the "it's a small world" department. I see we both bought our Promasters from the same place. I live in KC area and was happy to be able to find a lower mileage used 2500 in town.
 

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Hmmmm..doesn't your clamp ring require 1/8 spacer? My window made by crl either require 1.5 spacer like a 2x2 or 1/8 spacer... depending on which type of clamp ring you chose.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am not sure about the spacer. The window is specifically made for the Promaster in that position. It did not come with instructions, which I had read is standard for these windows. In researching installations by others, I did not run across anyone else using a spacer, And I did speak with a very helpful tech at Van Windows Direct and he did not say anything about using a spacer. Also there was no choice of clamp ring. Just the one.


Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Phil: The window is contoured and made specifically to fit the Promaster in that location, drivers side front. The gap is much smaller then when I first tried to install it. Probably twice as small. Here are some pics, it doesn't look that different in the photos but in person there is a world of difference.


Model number for the window is FW392L. I bought it from Van Windows Direct. Shipped fast and shipping wasn't toooooo much.
 

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Hope this helps. The cut for the top and bottom of the window followed the line where the ribs were joined to the outside panel. I had originally cut the hole a little short of that line, which was why I had problem getting the window to seal.There was a little more room on the sides. And I had read a post in the forum that the corners did not follow the ribs exactly. For the top, bottom and left side of the window the clamp ring is on the metal where it meets the outside panel. So for most of the way around the window there are two pieces of metal between the window frame and clamp ring For me it was a little off on the right side due to the corners on the van not lining up with the corners on the window.



The clamp ring if very tight to the window. You can not get a fingernail between them.


I hope the pictures help if you need anymore just let me know. And in the "it's a small world" department. I see we both bought our Promasters from the same place. I live in KC area and was happy to be able to find a lower mileage used 2500 in town.

Thank you for posting the photos. They show what I wanted to see. I am glad the window seals tight against the body and doesn't leak. However, I don't like how the clamp ring seats on the inside. It looks like it bears against the chassis structure on the top and against the inside of the body skin along the sides. Those are not level/flush to each other. I had hoped that it would seat against the structure all the away around. I will design as spacer ring that will fix that.

All the best,
Hein
 
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