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Well guys after 120,000 miles I finally found my coolant leak. I had assumed it was the radiator seam. I tried a couple times to have it fixed under warranty but the dealer could never find the leak. I had the coolant smell like most people seem to have also. The coolant would always go down to just below the low level line on the reservoir and then seem to stay there. It wasn't a huge concern because it always stayed there even though I knew there was an issue. Well recently it started to get worse and I noticed a very small drip under the passenger front of the van, found coolant on the under tray. I found some red residue built up on the passenger side of the engine, mostly on the pulleys where the serpentine belt runs. And on the lower radiator hose. There is a coolant outlet on the upper part of a cylinder head passenger side, the factory clamp wasn't tight enough and seems to allow a slight leak. That outlet is long and the hose has lots of room for an extra clamp so I put one on next to the leaking factory clamp and no more leak. The radiator coolant level hasn't moved since. That's the first time since it was new off the lot that the level in the resivoir has stayed the same so I'm happy about that. Any way sorry for the long rant maybe it will be helpfully to somebody. Cheers guys
 

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My radiator was replaced but I was still losing coolant and had the smell as well. Traded in on a new 2017 and no whiff of coolant or dropping level...I don't know how to act!
 

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Well guys after 120,000 miles I finally found my coolant leak. I had assumed it was the radiator seam. I tried a couple times to have it fixed under warranty but the dealer could never find the leak. I had the coolant smell like most people seem to have also. The coolant would always go down to just below the low level line on the reservoir and then seem to stay there. It wasn't a huge concern because it always stayed there even though I knew there was an issue. Well recently it started to get worse and I noticed a very small drip under the passenger front of the van, found coolant on the under tray. I found some red residue built up on the passenger side of the engine, mostly on the pulleys where the serpentine belt runs. And on the lower radiator hose. There is a coolant outlet on the upper part of a cylinder head passenger side, the factory clamp wasn't tight enough and seems to allow a slight leak. That outlet is long and the hose has lots of room for an extra clamp so I put one on next to the leaking factory clamp and no more leak. The radiator coolant level hasn't moved since. That's the first time since it was new off the lot that the level in the resivoir has stayed the same so I'm happy about that. Any way sorry for the long rant maybe it will be helpfully to somebody. Cheers guys
I have heard bad things about the worm drive clamps especially if the fitting is plastic. The pressure is not even on that type of clamp and can crack the fitting.

I have always used that type to clamp over a but now it can be problematic. They say that is why OEM's don't use them.

I seen that on Motorweek. A show on PBS.



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ok, Obrian... now tell us how to 'add-a-clamp' like you did.
Mine has the same wiffs and low level reservoir as yours even though it was warranty replaced over a year ago.
Do I do this from the bottom of the van? laying on the ground?
How do I get to that hose? Does anything need to come off?
Did you do it by reaching in and down from under the hood?
Thanks in advance for DIY instructions. 2014
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
ok, Obrian... now tell us how to 'add-a-clamp' like you did.
Mine has the same wiffs and low level reservoir as yours even though it was warranty replaced over a year ago.
Do I do this from the bottom of the van? laying on the ground?
How do I get to that hose? Does anything need to come off?
Did you do it by reaching in and down from under the hood?
Thanks in advance for DIY instructions. 2014
Sorry i guess that would be helpful.
1 jack up the passenger front and remove the wheel.
2 remove the under tray, a few #2 Phillips screws.
3 remove the wheel well liner, more screws and one 10mm bolt
Edit-forgot to mention you need to remove the air box, one 10mm up top, some 8mms for the air box lid and some hose clamps
4 look in and you will see the coolant outlet, 2" hose
5 put whatever kind of clamp you want if it's leaking. Removing the factory clamp would be more work than it's worth. Imop
You may see a build up of pink crap, that's dried coolant. Good luck hope that helped.
 

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I have the coolant smell and the squeaky rear suspension.
The Chrysler dealer (not the original), checked both and found nothing.
Nope.... didn't smell it.
Nope.... didn't hear it.
And, no service bulletins for either so far.
2018 159" High, 3.6L.
Bought new last week of December, 2017
I have driven 36K+ miles.
 

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Has anyone replaced their own radiator? say from Napa, 450$ Can. The dealer can never find the leak and I am tired of losing a days work for no results.
Spectra Premium, heavy duty cooling
 

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Has anyone replaced their own radiator? say from Napa, 450$ Can. The dealer can never find the leak and I am tired of losing a days work for no results.
Spectra Premium, heavy duty cooling
I had the same problem and it wasn't leaking. It was the oil cooler.

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This doesn’t sound promising.
I bought a brand new 2018 promaster with the 3.6 only a few months ago. I have 6,900 miles on it and I just took it in today for the coolant smell and low reservoir. No visible leaks or residue. Hopefully they can find this clamp and tighten/replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
This doesn’t sound promising.
I bought a brand new 2018 promaster with the 3.6 only a few months ago. I have 6,900 miles on it and I just took it in today for the coolant smell and low reservoir. No visible leaks or residue. Hopefully they can find this clamp and tighten/replace it.
The coolant systems in these vans have so many possible issues there is no guarantee yours leaks from the clamp next to the thermostat housing like mine did. But good luck, look for any white or pinkish residue near hose ends or seams.
 

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I bought my Promaster about 4 months ago and it definitely has a leak somewhere.

I've had it at the dealer twice and they say there is no leak. However, I know this to be untrue as I've put about 3-4 gallons of the fancy hard to find do not mix magic serum (Fiat Coolant) they require in it over ~14,000 miles.

The couple of times I've taken it in they drive it around the block and nothing. But I have found that it tends to leak when under a load, climbing hills, pulling a trailer, etc. The last time I was on a trip I pulled a trailer over a pass coming from CO. to Raton, NM. and it spewed over a gallon out all over the passenger side of the engine compartment. You could see it all over under the hood and was even dripping out the bottom of the van when I stopped.

I've searched high and low and though that specific time I could see coolant all over the engine compartment I could not find the source. I had a sneaking suspicion that the cheap hose clamps the factory uses might be the culprit, only allowing coolant to leak/spray out of the end of the hose under heavy pressure when the van was under load. So I will definitely dig in and replace them.

Thanks for the info and the how-to @Obrian!
 

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On the hose clamps - just sistering in a helper clamp next to the factory clamp work too - in cold weather the lower radiator hose into motor sure made it looks like the starter was leaking starter fluid on mine, more clamps with mild tightening is just cheap insurance - find that the leakage ceases and then start cutting away OEM clamps?
 

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I WISH I just added a second clamp like you mentioned. I took the route of replacing the whole upper radiator hose assembly since I had the front end already apart to do the bank 2 sensor O2 sensor. Top bolt came off thermostat housing no problem, bottom bolt snapped immediately taking a corner of the thermostat with it. I was proud of myself for having a new thermostat housing with me just in case, but I cannot get the broken rusted bolt out of another piece of plastic, the coolant crossover pipe. It appears to me to get at the coolant crossover pike, the passenger side engine mount needs to be removed. I'm about to give up and have it towed. I've soaked the broken bolt in penetrating oil for almost a day now and it won't budge with vice grips. Anyone done this successfully? Any tips/ideas? I really appreciate it. I'll add some pics 1st 3 are of the coolant crossover piece. Thermostat housing attaches to it.
 

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2018 159 High Roof gas, BC, Canada
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I'm not a mechanic but I remember people using 2 nuts on a broken bolt, squeezing the 2 nuts hard together via 2 wrenches so that they "seize" and turn into sort of a "head" for the bolt and then extracting the bolt using the "new head". Hopefully, the threads weren't damaged with the vice grips so that you could give this a try.

Another thought: could you weld a nut onto the broken bolt to make a new head?
 

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good idea! i didn’t think of that. I’m pretty sure I flattened them with the vice grips but i’m going to try. Thank you.
 
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