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We built one on the ceiling in the garage! I like to call it the gobie machine...
View attachment 71249

Excited to see the electrical
cno.....do those bolts allow u to expand the crack to multiple widths....even have a chimney track practice course? placed order for climbing magazine.....being diabetic probably will not climb but will point out scenic spots available...

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Discussion Starter #43
Electrical Diagram:
This took quite some time to fully put together. Here is the final version of my two wiring diagrams. One I dubbed "Main" which is diagraming how all the major components integrate together. The other is "DC Load" which is how all the DC components branch out from my 12v fuse block. The distances labeled are the physical distances and I used LucidChart to do all the diagramming.

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Discussion Starter #45
I just expected to see more 15a & 30a fuses on diagram 2.....load

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Oh the amperage on the diagram is the amperage of the device, not fuse size. Here is the backend calculations used for fuse sizing (Probably not the most intuitive representation, but column J is the one to look at.)

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Elegant design. Anxious to see it in situ.
 

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interesting point that one should only draw down 1/2 of battery....total amp = 109 per wooksheet

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Discussion Starter #50
I'm curious what your AC Loads are going to be? Is there a reason you will have ~150 Ah of useable battery?
AC loads should be minimal, if any at all. Charge a laptop here or there, or maybe grinding coffee beans once in a blue moon. I'm expecting to use approximately (high limit) 70Ah/day, so I'll have 2 full days of power without solar or DC-DC charging. With my two power sources I'm hoping to not run close to the limit even through powder chasing in the winter. Were you thinking my battery bank size was high or low?
 

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2021 Dodge Promaster 2500 - 159
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@juddnelson Thanks for sharing your diagrams! I hoping you can answer some questions for me. No judgment here, just every thread makes me second guess my build, haha.

  1. It looks like you have your solar panels wired in series, so they shouldn't be producing very high amps, ~8-9 amps total. Given that, why are you using a 50a breaker?
  2. I keep doing wire calcs on my wire size for solar panels to MPPT, and I keep getting 12awg is fine... do you have a reason to use 10awg?
  3. What are the extra black (neg?) wires on your MPPT?
Thanks! Your stuff looks great!
 

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Discussion Starter #52
@juddnelson Thanks for sharing your diagrams! I hoping you can answer some questions for me. No judgment here, just every thread makes me second guess my build, haha.

  1. It looks like you have your solar panels wired in series, so they shouldn't be producing very high amps, ~8-9 amps total. Given that, why are you using a 50a breaker?
  2. I keep doing wire calcs on my wire size for solar panels to MPPT, and I keep getting 12awg is fine... do you have a reason to use 10awg?
  3. What are the extra black (neg?) wires on your MPPT?
Thanks! Your stuff looks great!
  1. The 50A breaker is truly just used as an on/off switch. It's an ABYC requirement to have a switch for the solar panels, and this is an easy way to do it and doesn't take up much space. It's sized to 50A because I don't want it needlessly tripping (which could happen at a much lower amperage) and I'm not concerned with the overcurrent protection here.
  2. I used 10awg from solar panels to MPPT because I initially bought Renogy panels and they recommended those wires so I just added them to the order, really didn't give it much thought outside of that. I since sold those panels and got NewPowa ones to fit my desired configuration on the roof, but kept the wires since I think they're fairly universal. One thought on getting 10 vs 12 is who knows down the road you want to add a couple more panels to the roof, you'll appreciate the thicker gauge. I think the cost difference would be marginal if any.
  3. Ground wiring. Ground from my inverter is chained at the MPPT which then goes to my bus bars (Lynx distributor). Ground wire size from MPPT matches wire size of Pos/Neg. Ground wire size of Inverter is 10awg as that's what's recommended in the manual.
 

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In your worksheet some of your fuse sizes for lower amp sizes are below the minimum size....these are the lowest fuse sizes....is there a law or rule about this? I just assumed u needed a larger size

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Discussion Starter #54
In your worksheet some of your fuse sizes for lower amp sizes are below the minimum size....these are the lowest fuse sizes....is there a law or rule about this? I just assumed u needed a larger size

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I see what you're referring to here...this is a worksheet I was mainly using as a checklist when I did all the prewiring. What probably happened here is I changed some wiring around but didn't change the fuse sizing. I haven't connected any of the devices yet to the fuse block yet, so I haven't actually installed any fuses. To answer your question, the fuse should be at minimum 125% the amperage of the device and I'll make sure to do so when I do the install.

Part 2: Select a Fuse and Fuse Holder For Your DC Product Installation - Blue Sea Systems
 

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2019-159 HR in CO
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Were you thinking my battery bank size was high or low?
It seemed high to me given your loads that's why I was asking about AC loads! I think our deepest discharge on our BattleBorn 100Ah Lithium Ion has been 30Ah. We don't have an inverter. We use this hand held coffee grinder to gind, by the time we finish boiling water the beans are ground. And we use this 72W USB-C Charger four out macbooks and phones. We do winter camp and use the heat for hours and hours every night which is our biggest load. Our plan if we get down to a low enough charge is just to turn the van on, this hasn't happened to us yet! Although we live in CO and seldom have clouds for more than a day.
 
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