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2019 Ram Promaster 136 HT Gasser Stealth Work Van Weekend Camper
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The seller was on this Forum .
IIRC he got banned .
 

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Anyone have any idea how the wiring works on these? Do they have the factory connector or is some wiring necessary?
I seriously doubt they have factory connectors. They also look flat and I can't tell how they are supposed to seal to the roof. Not very attractive either, especially on a non-white van. Also twice the price of the ones I just ordered (link in post 34 above). I'm expecting them Monday. I'll keep you posted.
 

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MMXVI - L2H2 in IN
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@afox
I don't recall seeing any of these installed, but I assume one needs to add the OEM connector.

@SteveSS
It appears the white thin plastic just bends to conform to the curve.

Product Automotive lighting Wood Font Audio equipment
 

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Yeah, i doubt they have the factory connectors either and that would be a hassle to wire everything for so many lights.

Im desperate for a solution that just does not leak. That is all I care about. The OEM lights arent sealed to the roof to my standards. I am noticing water stains on the headliner near the front window pillars. The lights all have condensation in them. The OEM lights are incredibly poorly designed, the plastic is not durable, small hail or rocks crack them, they have 3 holes when they could have one, they are not sealed to the contoured roof adequately. I would buy replacement OEM lights if they were a quality product.

Im considering going to a body shop and asking them to weld everything closed. No idea how much that would cost but it would be great to never have to deal with them again.
 

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@phil, $50 for one leak-prone OEM light? Now that's a deal I can refuse.

@afox, my leak(s) showed up in the same place. Amazon just told me my new lights ($38 for 5) should arrive today (5 days early!). Hang in there one more day and I'll let you know how they look.
 

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OK, Amazon just delivered these marker lights. They look really good, but I can't install them before Tuesday. I don't foresee any trouble though (but there always is). They have a curved base and a thick-ish foam gasket. As expected, they will need another hole drilled in their base to align with the PM's 3.5" screw spacing. There is room to do that behind the existing rear hole. Also as expected, they will need to be spliced into the PM wiring. I'll post again after installation.
 

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Looking forward to your critical review of those lights @SteveSS and considering the tape @phil , it can't be worse than the OEM lights.

My theory is that the marker lights were added as an afterthought when the Ducato was introduced to the u.s. and not at all well thought out. The euro Ducato does not have the marker lights. I mean, WTF were they thinking??? These things seem like they are about to fall off from a gust of wind.
 

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OK, Amazon just delivered these marker lights. They look really good, but I can't install them before Tuesday. I don't foresee any trouble though (but there always is). They have a curved base and a thick-ish foam gasket. As expected, they will need another hole drilled in their base to align with the PM's 3.5" screw spacing. There is room to do that behind the existing rear hole. Also as expected, they will need to be spliced into the PM wiring. I'll post again after installation.
I have one installed so far, and I am pleased with the results. Still waiting for a break in the rain to do the other four and take photos. They are going to look sharp. The curve in the base is practically perfect and the foam gasket is plenty thick enough to compensate. I could not pull enough wire out of the roof to access the connector, so I cut the wires and solder-spliced the new ones (blk-blk, wht-red). Drilling a new screw hole in the base worked fine, and I could reuse the original screws. I made small cut-outs in both foam gaskets for the new screw. And I applied a small bead of silicone chalking to both gaskets before assembly, just to be safe.
 

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I have one installed so far, and I am pleased with the results. Still waiting for a break in the rain to do the other four and take photos. They are going to look sharp. The curve in the base is practically perfect and the foam gasket is plenty thick enough to compensate. I could not pull enough wire out of the roof to access the connector, so I cut the wires and solder-spliced the new ones (blk-blk, wht-red). Drilling a new screw hole in the base worked fine, and I could reuse the original screws. I made small cut-outs in both foam gaskets for the new screw. And I applied a small bead of silicone chalking to both gaskets before assembly, just to be safe.
Thanks for this @SteveSS.

Do you feel like the plastic is thicker/more likely to resist cracking from small stones/hail on these vs. the OEM?

soldering all of those sounds like a PITA, maybe a good project to use these 3m connectors I saw here: UY-3M Scotchlok IDC Butt Connector, 100 Pack: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
 

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Did you do this from the outside?
Yes, since the screws and lights are on the outside, most of it has to be done from the outside anyway. The hassle of gaining inside access to the wiring wasn't worth it to me. It just meant I had to do the solder-splicing from the outside. No big deal.

Do you feel like the plastic is thicker/more likely to resist cracking from small stones/hail on these vs. the OEM?

soldering all of those sounds like a PITA, maybe a good project to use these 3m connectors I saw here: UY-3M Scotchlok IDC Butt Connector, 100 Pack: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
The whole unit, including the lens, is way beefier than OEM. Looks way cooler, too.

I don't mind soldering and it gives me the ultimate peace-of-mind. But sure, those connectors would work, too.
Just be aware the LEDs and wiring are permanently embedded in the lens, and the wiring has to feed through small slots in every layer of the unit. My solder-splices fit through them, those connectors won't. But it should still be doable if you plan ahead.
 

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OK, I have all 5 installed now. I finished the other 4 right as it started to rain (again), so no photos, but they do look really sharp! I'm calling it a success.

It turns out the curved bases match the outside two positions very well, but the roof curves a little more under the inside 3. However, the foam base-gasket on the new lights is plenty thick enough to compensate.

The original screws worked just fine, but I sensed the factory threaded inserts on the roof pulling out a bit as I tightened the screws down. The factory lights sit snug against the threaded inserts in the roof. But, the thick foam base-gaskets on the new lights don't let the hard-plastic base fully contact the threaded inserts at first. So the screws pull up on the inserts until the foam compresses enough for the plastic base to make contact with the inserts. The inserts lift a bit, but they can't come out all the way. The lights seem secure enough, and I did apply silicone chalking to the underside of the base-gaskets, so I don't anticipate leaks (none yet). But if I had a do-over, I'd replace the factory inserts with rivnuts or something equally secure.
 
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