Ram Promaster Forum banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I haven't been very active posting my build, but I was finally able to sleep in the van over the weekend at a bike event. I actually slept in the parking lot of the hotel, while my riding mates had paid rooms. I got to use the bed for the first time and use the van for it's main purpose, transporting bikes inside!

Here are some pics of the drawer and bed....

The Drawer:
I used two 60" drawer slides rated at 500lbs (although I would never test this limit). The drawer is 3/4 maple ply (47"x62") with FRP applied to the top side to enable easy cleanup of bike grease. I mounted 4 standard QR fork mounts (https://www.mec.ca/en/product/4008-579/Claw-Fork-Mount) (after removing the through axle type shown in a few pics) and have ordered 4 adapters (https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5048-203/Fork-Adapter) to allow 15mm through axle bikes to be mounted. The drawer itself uses 3x3" aluminum as the frame bolted to the plywood. The drawer slides lock in the closed and extended position but can't be removed like a kitchen drawer. Instead I made the drawer bottom removable with a few bolts and rivnuts in the aluminum frame. When the bed is up I can walk on the closed drawer, it's very strong!

Here is a link to the slides http://truck-hardware.orrorr.com/item/drawer-slides/s-heavy-duty-lock-in-lock-out-full-extension-slide/h-8570

The Bed:
I built the bed frame out of the same 3"x3" aluminum angle brackets bolted in each corner with 4 bolts. I used the ikea centre rail that many have used, and two ikea bed slats. The mattress is an 8" memory foam ikea mattress in size double (54x74"). I considered by the happijac bed lift but decided I could create something similar for much cheaper, and with a smaller footprint. I used 4 of these (https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/latch-spring-assembly/A-p8650913e) to lock the bed in the down and up positions. I simply unlock the two latches at one end and then raise or lower the end, then I come around and do the other end. It's doable with one person, but better with two. I will eventually add a third option that allows me to have the bed about 8" higher than the lowest position so I can mount my road bike without removing the saddle. The current height from the lowest position to the drawer floor is 33", even my bike road bike (size 61cm) can fit with the saddle removed. This gives me about 30" headroom above the bed to ceiling.

Thoughts?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
310 Posts
What goes on the sides? Looks like you took about 2ft off the width of the van. Is there storage or other stuff in there?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I will be using the upper sides as storage for clothes. I will add some shelves and sliding bypass doors that can be opened and accessed with the bed up or down.

The lower portion which is a little deeper will be a combination of storage and a place to hold two 15 gallon water tanks on each side... in the space just aft of each wheel well. The pump will also go above the wheel well and there will be similar sliding doors on both sides.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
If you mean the little round camera mounted on the brake light housing, yes. It's connected to a LCD monitor that replaced the rearview mirror. It works very well, and is needed on a van with no rear windows.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Nicely done. Can you give more details how you remove the shelf when not needed? Where did you get the aluminum sides to mount the slider to? Is it full extension? Does it rattle when driving? What is the FRP surface? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
If you mean the little round camera mounted on the brake light housing, yes. It's connected to a LCD monitor that replaced the rearview mirror. It works very well, and is needed on a van with no rear windows.
Off the top of your head, do you know that brand and model for that backup camera? Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Nicely done. Can you give more details how you remove the shelf when not needed? Where did you get the aluminum sides to mount the slider to? Is it full extension? Does it rattle when driving? What is the FRP surface? Thanks.
I mounted two 62" long 3x3 aluminum angle directly to the drawer slides. If I remove the shelf (or drawer base) the 3x3 pieces will remain in place. I attached rivnuts (4 per side) to the 3x3 and the drawer base is bolted to that. I attached 1x1 angle aluminum to the front side and back side of the drawer base... this serves to strengthen the drawer and serve as a handle to pull out the drawer. It's full extension and locks in both the in and the out position. I haven't noticed noise coming from it while driving. I'm in Canada and there is a place called the Metal Supermarket, that's where I've purchased the various aluminum and steel used throughout the build. FRP is fibre reinforced panel, it's used to line showers and car washes. It's what I used to build my shower. You simply attached it with a special glue/mortar to plywood. I had an extra 4x8 sheet leftover....it's about $65 a sheet in Canada.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Off the top of your head, do you know that brand and model for that backup camera? Thanks!
I bought the mirror/monitor and "bumper" camera from Tadi Bros. I really wanted the small bumper style camera that I could mount in the brake light housing. I thought the monitor would be able to clip directly to the factory windshield mount, but it didn't so I ended up using the type that clips to the existing mirror. I didn't like the look of that so I built a spacer that is similar size to the factory mirror (out of old cutting board painted black) and bolted that to the old mirror base. I wired the power into the lighter plug located in by the rear door.

I absolutely love it. The hardest part is wiring above the headliner. If you are insulating up there, that's the time to run any wires.

Links:
https://www.tadibrothers.com/products/7-full-mirror-with-built-in-camera-screen
https://www.tadibrothers.com/products/120-bumper-backup-camera-standard

I also ordered the 35' video cable to ensure enough length to get to the back of the van.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Thanks for all the details on your setup Shaun. What is the distance from the van floor to the top of the drawer surface?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I left 1.25" from floor to underside of drawer to give clearance to some seats rails that I have mounted (directly to the metal floor of the van) in case I want to carry two more passengers (I have an extra double seat from a ford Transit). The drawer thickness is 3/4" plus about an 1/8 for the FRP, so I would guess I have 2.25" from floor to top of drawer. I also have the factory wood floor with 3/4" polyiso under that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Thanks again for all the info. Did you consider any other slides? Are you happy with the ones you chose? I plan on mounting 4 bikes on ours.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
More pics of the locking mechanism

I had some requests for more photos of the locking pins. There are four mounted in each corner, roughly 10" in from the head and foot of the bed frame. These are bolted to the aluminum angle (3"x3") so that when fully retracted they barely extend beyond the side of the rail and hence will not rub on the vertical supports. The vertical supports currently have two positions, lowered (the primary sleeping position) which also allows the bed to rest on the horizontal supports. The upper position is the storage position, which tucks the bed right up against the ceiling, with enough clearance for the bedding including pillows. My Maxxair fan is over the bed, the remote still works (but finicky) and the fan draws well.

Hope this helps.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top