Ram Promaster Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Getting ready to install my hoops as the weather is getting a bit better. Does anyone know what the thickness of the sheetmetal is where the hoops are installed. Am deciding on what size rivnut to use. Seems like you need to know the thickness of the metal. Wiil use a #12 self drilling sheet metal screw for the upper part and rivnut on the bottom as an example I saw on this forum, which I must say is a very helpful forum. I am going to use a nut and bolt install DIY tool. Was looking at the steel yellow finish ribbed ones. Looks like they'd be more apt to not spin. Have never used a rivnut ever. :|
 

·
Registered
2014-159 HR in CT
Joined
·
3,654 Posts
Thickness? not very thick... I used the same rivnuts I used inside the van on the rails and columns.

Using the nut-and-bolt DIY tool will actually make it easier to get in where you need to. On mine I used a 1/4-20 rivnut for the bottom and 10-24 rivnut for the top screw.

I would suggest that you drill some holes in scrap metal and do a few practice rivnuts before doing it under the van in limited space. They work well and the DIY tool works well, but you may get better insight into what techniques, hole sizes, wrenches, etc work best if you experiment at the workbench. I did mine with no lift, laying in the driveway, and it was a PITA but do-able.

These pics might help:







Thin shim in pic 2 made it a better match to the van's bottom edge.

Mine are installed so that they don't stick out past the tire so they are protected from curbs, etc. Mounted as I did ends up with the step just about halfway between the van step and the ground.

(disappointed in the paint on 'em... lotsa chips on the black... discovered a quick hit with a black satin spray can makes 'em look pretty good again!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for taking the time to post the photos! Very helpful. Need to get wife's side on soon or get her some mountain climbing gear. :D
 

·
Registered
2014-159 HR in CT
Joined
·
3,654 Posts
Hint: The best way to get in and out is facing the seat... so you get in facing in, and get out facing in.

I added a strip of reflective tape on the inside of the door edge in the location where the step is. When backing out, it's hard to see where the step is, so the tape tells you where to put your foot, even though you can't actually see the step. (It'll make sense once they're installed and you use 'em) Use the "3 points of contact" technique.

Watch this:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
"On mine I used a 1/4-20 rivnut for the bottom and 10-24 rivnut for the top screw."

Why did you use the smaller diameter bolts rather than 1/4 inch at the top and 5/16 at the bottom. Fudge room?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,827 Posts
The self taping screw on the top is fine of course as the stress is all compression towards the van. If you have the rear larger hoop look at my modification as I make it much better by cutting the step and using the mounts bolted through the pinch seam at the bottom of the van. That step has dragged when I get somewhere I probably shouldn’t be and the step can fold up towards the van an do no damage to the van or to the step or bend the mounting brackets.

See:http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37177&page=9 Post 83-86
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,929 Posts
disappointed in the paint on 'em... lotsa chips on the black... discovered a quick hit with a black satin spray can makes 'em look pretty good again!)
Another timely topic. I've just been reading similar review comments about the finish wearing/pealing, etc. I'm thinking the powder coat models (black or silver) would be best if frequent touch ups are required. Not crazy about the bright "chrome" finish anyway. Any other comments about long-term wear? How are the brackets holding up?

I'd also like to put in a related plug for the Mopar grab handle for the slider door that mounts on the B-pillar. Expensive bugger, but installation is easy and it's so strong you could use it as a tow hook.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
"Mopar grab handle"

I'm lookin' for that rascal. Wherezitat?
 

·
Registered
2014-159 HR in CT
Joined
·
3,654 Posts
... If you have the rear larger hoop look at my modification as I make it much better by cutting the step and using the mounts bolted through the pinch seam at the bottom of the van.
See:http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37177&page=9 Post 83-86
I don't know about "much better". On mine, I mounted the 20" slider step in the same position as the front two... it works perfectly! Consistent look along the side of the van, tucked in so I don't snag it on anything. (then again I haven't done a lot of AZ desert trips)

Steve,

The brackets are fine, it's the steps that look pretty bad. Looks like the powder coat just chips off. Before I sprayed 'em, they had dull silver spots the size of quarters, and lots of chips on the leading edge. Spray paint made them acceptable, not perfect, but not an eyesore with obvious chips.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,929 Posts
"Mopar grab handle" I'm lookin' for that rascal. Wherezitat?
https://moparonlineparts.com/promaster-grab-handle-p-6774.html

Looks like the powder coat just chips off. Before I sprayed 'em, they had dull silver spots the size of quarters, and lots of chips on the leading edge. Spray paint made them acceptable, not perfect, but not an eyesore with obvious chips.
Then maybe the silver powder coat won't show spots as bad. Anybody have experience with that?
 

·
Registered
2014-159 HR in CT
Joined
·
3,654 Posts
"On mine I used a 1/4-20 rivnut for the bottom and 10-24 rivnut for the top screw."

Why did you use the smaller diameter bolts rather than 1/4 inch at the top and 5/16 at the bottom. Fudge room?
OOOPS!

I looked at the picture again (did the install over 2 years ago!)

The bottom wrench is 13mm so I used an M8 bolt, which is about 5/16".... the top one is 1/4-20.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,929 Posts
I just checked Carr's website. For Hoop II (regular width) used for the front doors, they have part numbers specific to PM's, but not for the Super Hoop (wide width) used for the slider. Is there one that fits PMs better than others? What's the difference?
 

·
Registered
2014-159 HR in CT
Joined
·
3,654 Posts
hThen maybe the silver powder coat won't show spots as bad. Anybody have experience with that?
Their website says, "With our polished finish in dryer climates it will keep its shine longer. Where there is a lot of rain and snow the polish finish will dull faster. However, in whatever climate if you use an aluminum polish like Mother’s, the finish will last longer. Our powder coated finishes will last very well in virtually all climates. However, if the powder coat is removed do to gouging and scratching the powder can come off."

The painted ones will chip (they will cover by saying, "gouging and scratching")... the aluminum ones will dull.

The black and silver are powder coated, the polished finish is polished aluminum. The silver would show chips less, but on my Granite van, the black looks more like all the other trim on the van... door handles, mirrors, etc.
 

·
Registered
2014-159 HR in CT
Joined
·
3,654 Posts
I just checked Carr's website. For Hoop II (regular width) used for the front doors, they have part numbers specific to PM's, but not for the Super Hoop (wide width) used for the slider. Is there one that fits PMs better than others? What's the difference?
20" Hoop II is what I used on mine (Carr 124031-1 SUPER HOOP XP3 Black Powder Coated Step)



Best picture I have of the 20" Hoop II under the slider. I suppose I could dig the van out of the foot of snow accumulating right now, but...

FYI,
Here's a pic of the tape I used to make it easier to hit the step while backing out... really helps... not seen when the door is closed. (Picture when the steps were new)

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Those are really cool lights! Can they be turned on from outside the van?

Maybe some front mud flaps would keep some of the chipping from happening to your front steps.
 

·
Registered
2014-159 HR in CT
Joined
·
3,654 Posts
UG,

Lights are remote controlled and can be red, green, blue, white, or any combination of... I only did one side.. Other side is on the to-do list. They really do make it easier to walk around the camp area at night

The chips were heavier at the front edge but not just there... I don't think the flaps would help much. Some flaking even on the top and back surfaces... Poorly finished
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,929 Posts
20" Hoop II is what I used on mine (Carr 124031-1 SUPER HOOP XP3 Black Powder
Thanks, that part number has the widest application of any of them (Chevy & Ram PUs, etc). I'm currently leading toward the polished version (124032-1) since it can't possibly chip or peel, and it's cheaper. If it goes dull (matte) over time, all the better.

Ziggy, I'm willing to bet plastic dipping wouldn't stand up to the traffic (people and roads). Plus, if it didn't, removing it would be a PITA.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top