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I'd like to do things "right" for my new Promaster (any day now!) WRT house battery. I'm having trouble finding components that must be out there, somewhere. So I welcome comments on what is available to give me what I want.

Inputs: DC from alternator, AC shore/generator power, DC from cranking battery, DC from house battery
Outputs: AC to outlets, DC to LED lights and cig plug and USB charging ports

Function:
--charge the house battery "properly" when the van runs (e.g. alternator but tweaked to best charge house battery) and do so with some heft (I'm getting 220 amp option)
--isolate the two batteries BUT allow the house battery to feed cranking battery (i.e. jump start) AND the reverse (for example, house bat is dead and I need to use my computer)
--when I plug in shore power, charge the house battery AND ideally the cranking battery and do so with some heft
--a monitor telling if everything is working okay and what current house battery capacity is
--shore power (generator) boost, if pulling a motor start (A/C) allow the battery to fill in for generator shortcoming

Still on the fence of Lithium vs. Lead Acid so it would be helpful to identify component differences to be used between these two battery types. Looking for around 200Ah of house capacity and inverter wattage to handle a small A/C.

Thanks!
 

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Bikerider I'm sure you studied the Wirthco Battery Doc? Google the net and this forum for lots of
positives about it, but it's not a 3 stage charger, for that look at the Projecta IDC-25. I just returned from
our first shake down cruise in our PM, about 2200 miles of shaking down and we used the Battery Doc. It worked
a charm along with our one 160 watt solar panel. The Battery Doc would get the batteries (2 x 240 amp hour in series) close and the panel via an MPPT charge controller would finish them off.....but we were almost two weeks in Florida with almost daily big doses of Sun.
For monitors, depending on what type of battery you get, you'll at best be doing a best approximation. The only true way I've read about is actually measuring specific gravity and I can't do that with sealed AGMs, maybe that is a true positive for FLAs if you really need to know exactly what the State of Charge is. I don't. With my elementary knowledge, if the batteries don't drop below 12.6 volts (and mine never did post 2 weeks of travel) I'm happy. Others are more demanding.
 
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