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Hi, I am new to the forum. I have been reading various topics for months. I have a question about the best options from the factory for a potential build with stove, water, heater, fridge, water heater, lights, fan, and assuming a normal prep (insulation, etc). I see options for extra battery, bigger alternator, plugs and sockets, and interior choices. This will be a cargo version with no interior, just front swivel seats. Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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Hi, I am new to the forum. I have been reading various topics for months. I have a question about the best options from the factory for a potential build with stove, water, heater, fridge, water heater, lights, fan, and assuming a normal prep (insulation, etc). I see options for extra battery, bigger alternator, plugs and sockets, and interior choices. This will be a cargo version with no interior, just front swivel seats. Any advice would be appreciated.
The headline of the thread says "Buying new window van" but in your post you say it’s just a cargo version. Cargo versions DO NOT come with windows. No Promaster (cargo or window version) comes with an interior or seats other than in the front so what are you buying?
 

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The headline of the thread says "Buying new window van" but in your post you say it’s just a cargo version. Cargo versions DO NOT come with windows. No Promaster (cargo or window version) comes with an interior or seats other than in the front so what are you buying?
I am including a hypothetical build from Promaster that explains https://www.ramtrucks.com/bmo.ram_promaster.2019.html#/build/packages/96151/CUT202000VF2L26A/2TA/ERB,DG2,Z2E,TWA,WDL,WH8,B7,CDU,CMB,CMC,BAJ,LMK,XAA,HDG,XFH,SDC,UAB,CCL,MRZ,MKN,X9,PRP,21A,APA It is possible my terminology is incorrect or more probably it became available this year (2020).
 

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There is no such thing as a factory Promaster passenger van it’s either a window van or a cargo van. It looks as if you want a window van. I ordered a ‘20 window van in September and just received word it was shipping.

I only ordered exactly what I wanted (obviously). Base radio as the uConnect is a POS and I’ll probably replace it, vinyl bucket seats of course, extra keys, shelf above, no cruise as I hate it, touring suspension, regular alternator, mag wheels, heated mirrors and probably a few other things I can’t remember. I didn’t get the upfitters connect as it’s useless for my needs same for the higher output alternator. The swivel seats are nice but I’m not sure I will put them in this build and the aftermarket ones are half the price as more than adequate for my needs, no floor as I will do my own, no trailer hitch as I will add my own for half the factory price, no chrome grill as I will be replacing it, right side slider as it’s a camper and dual sliders make no sense at all in a camper, no LED ceiling lights as I’ll do my own.

Most of the options are overpriced and useless for my needs but others may feel they need them.
 

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Congratulations on the second van!
 

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So they don't make any pass vans with seats already in them?
Anything done to any of the promasters is done by an upfitter?
That means that if you need a shuttle van, you're paying through the nose for one.
 

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So they don't make any pass vans with seats already in them?
Anything done to any of the promasters is done by an upfitter?
That means that if you need a shuttle van, you're paying through the nose for one.
As Phil says
yup
yup
yup
 

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Discussion Starter #11
There is no such thing as a factory Promaster passenger van it’s either a window van or a cargo van. It looks as if you want a window van. I ordered a ‘20 window van in September and just received word it was shipping.

I only ordered exactly what I wanted (obviously). Base radio as the uConnect is a POS and I’ll probably replace it, vinyl bucket seats of course, extra keys, shelf above, no cruise as I hate it, touring suspension, regular alternator, mag wheels, heated mirrors and probably a few other things I can’t remember. I didn’t get the upfitters connect as it’s useless for my needs same for the higher output alternator. The swivel seats are nice but I’m not sure I will put them in this build and the aftermarket ones are half the price as more than adequate for my needs, no floor as I will do my own, no trailer hitch as I will add my own for half the factory price, no chrome grill as I will be replacing it, right side slider as it’s a camper and dual sliders make no sense at all in a camper, no LED ceiling lights as I’ll do my own.

Most of the options are overpriced and useless for my needs but others may feel they need them.
Thank you for the explanation. I love this forum. I saw the RV prep package for $3495 (ouch). It includes auxiliary switches, the larger alternator you mentioned, and what they call a "rear heater and and AC prep package". I understand the other options on their list and like you I think most are overpriced. My question is whether these 3 items are useful and what they do? Thanks
 

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I will have to crawl under and look, but I'm not sure they even provide the lines. I think they just give you Tee fittings and some hose clamps.
Which makes the price even worse.
 

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I ordered the larger alternator, thinking why not at the time. But now that I have seen it doesn't provide anymore charge amps to my coach bank than the regular alternator, I'm not sure I'd do it again. Some have suggested it might last longer. Your call.
Skip the Rear A/C-heater Pkg. It is intended for extending the in-dash (engine based) A/C and heater systems in passenger/shuttle van conversions. But that is rarely, if ever, done in RV conversions. A few of us tap into the heater hoses under the hood to heat domestic hot water, but you would not need this option for that either.
Aux switches are pre-wired, but that limits your options in other ways. Better to add your own if you ever need more switches on the dash (I didn't).
 

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Steve, do you happen to know if you have to tap into the aux switches right at the switches, or if they terminate them at the B pillar or somewhere else?
 

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Sorry, I don't have them myself. I sort of remember reading on this forum that one is ignition-switched and the other not. Plus, their fuse occupies the normally vacant maxi-fuse spot on top of the starter battery that many folks (me included) use to fuse/feed their battery-isolator charging system. Hopefully someone with direct experience can provide better info.
 
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